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Drag Race Build 2g awd swap forward facing 6466

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Really okay I've been wanting to find someone with a 2.3 and see what they said if it really is that big a a difference I'll go with the 2.0.


I had the 2.3L for a street car. It was fun. And if you pair it with a smaller turbo like a GT30 or something, it would be the ultimate street machine. BUT!! Paired with my
6262 .82AR Vband turbo. I had to rev to 9K!!! on my 2.3 just to get the car to start making power. My Power band looked terrible under 7500.

So I agree with Mike. Go 2.0 and don't look back. If you want to make power. Plus you will end up spending more money on a 2.3 if you cant find a 4G64 block. I actually bought a off the shelf eagle or manely 100MM crank (cant remember) and used my 63 block. Had to prep the block more for the crank and rods. Had to run evo 8 oil squirters cause they were smaller. Just small things that add up.

P.S. look into a 2.0 Long rod. Less side load on the cylinder walls. And it compresses at a better angle then the standard 2.0.
 
Initially when I built this car back in 2008 I was running smaller turbos so the 2.3 was great. However now I cringe every time I rev it out just because I don't feel like wasting my powerband with the 6466. If the motor pops it pops it's done me well for 8 years haha
 
My smoking issue has returned.. It smokes bad at cold start up and idling, then after driving for a while it tends to clear up and come back at random. The only thing I can think of is the turbo oil drain. It is very difficult to get a perfect drain angle with this setup and I have tried all sorts of different fittings. What I currently have on it is -12 an (due to I was going to run the Holset.) The compression tests come back fine, everything checks out, there is no oil in my intercooler pipes at all, however there is oil in the exhaust. I suppose I will just have to try to route the return line differently.
 
And you head is refreshed right?

Brand spankin' new Curt Brown head. Everything in it is new, it's acting like the valve seals are leaking again. I am going to pull the wastegate off to check inside my manifold for oil I suppose. If I could just get another month out of enjoying it before winter teardown haha. The head and block will be dropped back off at Curts place again for some lovin'
 
I haven't decided what I'm doing yet, Curt always has killer deals and he gets all of the parts. I can't decide if I should stay true to the 7 bolt I've had since day 1 or go 6 bolt
 
Power goals: Turn it up and see what this 6466 can do. 800 something? No particular number in mind, the only number I care about is that 9 second number :sneaky:
 
10/11/2016 UPDATE

So last night I decided to work on my car again to figure out why it is smoking so bad. First things first I took the manifold off and immediately figured (or so I hope) out my issue. This is my philosophy; I took the head to Curt Brown for a rebuild and a few things needed heli coiled. He does not do the heli coils the machine shop does. I think they drilled the bottom center exhaust manifold stud out to heli coil it and drilled right through into the oil galley. If you look at the pictures of the screwdriver- that is how far I can stick it in the bottom center exhaust manifold stud hole. It seems like the oil was coming out of the stud, seeping across the head side of the gasket(see picture) and found its way into cylinder 2. So according to every one else who has had this issue they say just RTV the stud and reinstall it. Last night I did that and this evening I will be getting the car back together. The unfortunate thing is I wont know right away if I fixed my issue because of residual
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Unfortunately I don't think this fixed my issue. I know there will still be some residual oil in the exhaust that will burn but it is still burning just as much at cold start up and WOT. :banghead:
 
Unfortunately no updates at this time in regards to the smoking issue. It still smokes terribly at cold start ups and once its warm it basically stops smoking but as soon as I'm WOT it smokes like a freight train. I did however break something, now when I try to start it it grinds awfully like the starter isn't engaging on the flywheel correctly. I installed a new starter thinking it would fix my issue but it did not. I will keep updating this whenever I find time to get out to the garage and work on this turd! Also, stay tuned for this winters changes!
 
So what have you do to fix the oil issues.

Cyl Head checked out to be good?
Sealed the threaded exhaust studs?
Is your turbo drain draining correctly?
Is it a BB or JB turbo? could oil feed be the issue?

This seems weird
 
Unfortunately no updates at this time in regards to the smoking issue. It still smokes terribly at cold start ups and once its warm it basically stops smoking but as soon as I'm WOT it smokes like a freight train. I did however break something, now when I try to start it it grinds awfully like the starter isn't engaging on the flywheel correctly. I installed a new starter thinking it would fix my issue but it did not. I will keep updating this whenever I find time to get out to the garage and work on this turd! Also, stay tuned for this winters changes!
Maybe the starter plate is warped?
 
Cyl Head checked out to be good?
Sealed the threaded exhaust studs?
Is your turbo drain draining correctly?
Is it a BB or JB turbo? could oil feed be the issue?


Cyl head is a brand new Curt Brown head with about 300 miles on it- I will be sending it to Curt this winter to have looked over along with my new bottom end.

I cleaned the threads out and re sealed the exhaust stud.

Turbo drain is a tricky one with how the turbo placement is. However, after many failed attempts to get the perfect angle I managed to get the best possible angle at 21*

BB PTE 6466 Gen 2. I called Precision and they told me to run the oil feed from the filter housing and not the head. The factory PTE oil restrictor is still installed.

Have you checked the Turbo seals? sounds like oil is getting into an exhaust.

This is always a possibility. The turbo is brand new and this will also be checked this winter


Maybe the starter plate is warped?

Potentially, I dont see how it could have gotten warped, but you never know. Hopefully tonight I will be able to get into the garage and dig into this issue deeper
 
Maybe the starter plate is warped?

**ding ding ding ding ding** Winner-

I am not sure how this happened, but it seems like the starter plate managed to come off the dowel pin in the rear causing it to move up 1/4" in turn the starter and flywheel are not making proper contact. No bolts were loose nothing is broken(from what I can tell) how the heck does this happen? Hopefully tonight I can pull the transmission back about 1/2" reinstall the starter plate and button everything back up.
 
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