2G 2g Auto HY35 T3 Compressor Clearance Problems..

[bastarddsm]

I'd be tempted to make a push lock 2bolt flang to bolt on the pan like stock

 

[1slowhatch]

I'd be tempted to make a push lock 2bolt flang to bolt on the pan like stock

I've got to the pull the pan to reseal it and fix 1 of the threads into the block. I still may weld the -12 bung to an adapter so I can go back to stock if need be.

 

[1slowhatch]

Made a little progress. Mounted the wg block off/actuator. Test fit rad/fans (fits good). Made a stainless intake tube (have to drill a couple holes and slightly dent it @ intercooler pipe). How hard is it to convert to speed density? I think I have everything to do it. Is it any tougher to tune than with the stock mass air?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[1slowhatch]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[JusMX141]

How are you anticipating the wastegate flapper is going to open with the actuator pushing the opposite direction like that?

For what you're attempting to work, you'd need to re-mount the actuator lever to the bottom side of the housing....180* off of how it is on a stock HY35, as on a stock HY the actuator pushes toward the exhaust housing to open the wastegate; yours is pushing toward the compressor housing.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Dsmkauai]

^^ this your helping your wastegate blow open the way you have it.

 

[1slowhatch]

How are you anticipating the wastegate flapper is going to open with the actuator pushing the opposite direction like that?

For what you're attempting to work, you'd need to re-mount the actuator lever to the bottom side of the housing....180* off of how it is on a stock HY35, as on a stock HY the actuator pushes toward the exhaust housing to open the wastegate; yours is pushing toward the compressor housing.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Lol, good catch. I can just grind the weld on the flapper arm and rotate it, right?

 

[boostdawd]

How are you anticipating the wastegate flapper is going to open with the actuator pushing the opposite direction like that?

For what you're attempting to work, you'd need to re-mount the actuator lever to the bottom side of the housing....180* off of how it is on a stock HY35, as on a stock HY the actuator pushes toward the exhaust housing to open the wastegate; yours is pushing toward the compressor housing.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

That's what I was thinking .

 

[1slowhatch]

That's what I was thinking .

At least I won't have any problems holding boost .. .

 

[bastarddsm]

Grind the weld off, rotate it ans Tig it back on

 

[Dsmkauai]

You wouldn't make any boost that way

 

[1slowhatch]

How are you anticipating the wastegate flapper is going to open with the actuator pushing the opposite direction like that?

For what you're attempting to work, you'd need to re-mount the actuator lever to the bottom side of the housing....180* off of how it is on a stock HY35, as on a stock HY the actuator pushes toward the exhaust housing to open the wastegate; yours is pushing toward the compressor housing.

Fixed?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[boostdawd]

This is how they're mounted from factory. You have the flapper opening in the wrong direction.

 

[ThunderChild]

He flipped the flapper pegs orientation, its correct now. Zoom in on the third pic and youll see the re-welded flapper arm.

 

[boostdawd]

He flipped the flapper pegs orientation, its correct now. Zoom in on the third pic and youll see the re-welded flapper arm.

Ah! I see it now. It's the little things . Let us know how it works out. I'm curious as to how well it will control boost.

 

[JusMX141]

You wouldn't make any boost that way

Wrong- it would make ALL the boost that way.

Fixed?

Yessir.

 

[1slowhatch]

Got a few things done tonight. Not sure if the -12 drain fitting deal is going to work. No room for the nut on the turbo. I probably should have offset the flange some before welding.

Also grabbed a 4" coupler and t bolt clamps for the intake, welded a fitting in to the intake tube, gasketed the wg blockoff plate.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[ThunderChild]

That was before he fixed it. Wouldn't it not make boost (Maybe a few psi) due to the flapper being pulled open instead of being held closed? If he could make all the boost than why did he need to fix it. Like when the wastegate arm falls off you make no boost.

No, originally he had it so the wg actuator would hold the gate closed, and keep pushing pressure on the gate as boost increased, so it would have over boosted. To infinite boost and beyond!

 

[Dsmkauai]

My bad yo been a long weekend and week so far . Brain fart Not sure what made me look at it backwards /;(. I promise I'm not drunk haha sorry fellas

 

[1slowhatch]

Worked on it a little tonight. Not super happy with the oil return. I was going to pull the oil pan to weld a -12 male fitting to the pan. Looks like a super pita. T case, crossmember, pan, front cv, possibly a arm...?? Too much work.

I chopped and measured the stock oil return (2g T25). It's larger in diameter than the -12 an fitting ID. I flared it slightly and slipped the -12 an pushlock hose over it. Tightened up a hose clamp over it. The turbo end is a -12 pushlock 45 degree fitting. I'm thinking of buying a different 3/4 NPT turbo drain fitting, along with a 3/4 npt to 3/4 nipple, then using the same -12 hose with clamps on both ends. Should be easier to take on/off, flow better, etc.

 

[1slowhatch]

The car runs. I modified the intake tube to fit the stock mass air/smaller air filter. Filled it with coolant and motor oil. It has lots of boost leak issues I think I can fix. However, the big problem is, it's pissing coolant from the O ring at the coolant tube. It is a relatively new O ring already. I'm guessing I distorted or disturbed the o-ring seal there. Any solutions..???

The only thing I can think to do is drop the turbo and replace the O ring again.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Look for cracks in the pipe and make sure it is seated in the water pump.

 

[boostdawd]

Did the turbo compressor touch the waterpipe? This is the tube that connects to your water pump right. Did u have to dent it?

 

[1slowhatch]

Did the turbo compressor touch the waterpipe? This is the tube that connects to your water pump right. Did u have to dent it?

Yes, I had to significantly dent the coolant pipe for the turbo to fit.

I don't think it touches it all bolted down. Coolant is streaming from the coolant pipe o ring on the passenger side (below the coolant cap).

 

[1slowhatch]

Replaced the o ring and the coolant leak seems to be fixed. Not sure if we disturbed it or it was just a low quality aftermarket o ring that got hard.

Tried fixing some boost leaks. Drove it around tonight. On wastegate pressure, I get a 20 psi surge in 1 st gear, holds 16 psi in 2nd+. Kinda lazy, maybe full boost around 5500 rpm in 1 st.

Put a boost controller on it, maxed out, I'm holding a consistent 26 psi through all the gears. Going to do a boost leak test on it tomorrow. Very rich tune up, tells me the I've got more boost leaks. I can only footbrake 1 psi...