2G 2g Auto HY35 T3 Compressor Clearance Problems..

[1slowhatch]

Trying to put together a HY35/ebay T3 cast manifold set up on my 2g 7 bolt auto. I had to significantly grind 2 places in the turbine housing to get decent clearance. I've now pulled the locating pin on the compressor housing to allow it to be clocked. After attempting to reinstall, I'm now realizing the compressor housing is all kinds of into the block.

Is this normal? No one seemed to have this problem in the other threads? Any solutions other than a different manifold?

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[1slowhatch]

I suppose angle milling the manifold flange would help. Not sure if I'll have other clearance issues (fans/rad)?

This will make it almost impossible for an external gate to be mounted to the manifold with hood clearance.

 

[boostdawd]

Maybe try running a spacer between the head and manifold. Like an extra exhaust flange. You might need longer studs however. Just a thought. If not then u may need to cut the turbo to manifold flange at an angle to allow for clearance.

 

[bastarddsm]

Angle mill the TH flange. Run the internal gate. It works killer good IMHO. If you look I have tons of posts on running the HY35, and i still feel it's one of the best turbo's for a DSM ever!

 

[1slowhatch]

Angle mill the TH flange. Run the internal gate. It works killer good IMHO. If you look I have tons of posts on running the HY35, and i still feel it's one of the best turbo's for a DSM ever!

TH is turbine housing..??

I have access to a manual mill. I wouldn't feel comfortable trying angle mill the manifold to head, but I might be able to pull off milling the turbo housing (shorter distance). How smooth does the finish need to be? I have a 6 ply MLS T3 gasket.

I am really trying to keep the internal gate. I even have a "BD diesel" external spring deal that diesel guys run to get more boost out of them. This turbo was making 25+ psi on a 24v cummins.

I plan to mount the wastegate actuator off the ext. wg block off plate (like your install).

 

[bastarddsm]

yeah it works really good, only drawback is you have to bend the dipstick out of the way. I used a wh1c actuator, just because it was in better shape than the hy. You can adjust the tension with the rod and up the boost. I ran ~30psi with out a mbc on just spring pressure.

Yes TH is turbine housing. Also before you mill things make sure the manifold outlet lines up with the TH. Might be better to slot the mount holes and move the TH forward, should line up better then.

 

[1slowhatch]

yeah it works really good, only drawback is you have to bend the dipstick out of the way. I used a wh1c actuator, just because it was in better shape than the hy. You can adjust the tension with the rod and up the boost. I ran ~30psi with out a mbc on just spring pressure.

Yes TH is turbine housing. Also before you mill things make sure the manifold outlet lines up with the TH. Might be better to slot the mount holes and move the TH forward, should line up better then.

I'll check out the fitment tomorrow.

I'm hoping for good pump gas performance (only 91 octane here). I can get E85, but winter time DDing kinda sucks because of cold starts.

Any idea what kind of boost pressure to shoot for on 91? I'm hoping low 20's will get me better power than the B16G made on E85 (around 33 lb/min and aggressive timing).

 

[Dsmkauai]

You could also use a spacer on the exhaust manifold. I did that with my Hahn 16g to get clearance. I actually have a extra if you want pm me. And you will need longer studs but Hahn sells them.

 

[boostdawd]

You could also use a spacer on the exhaust manifold. I did that with my Hahn 16g to get clearance. I actually have a extra if you want pm me. And you will need longer studs but Hahn sells them.

Would u mind sharing the size of the spacer your using? Also a pic?

 

[JusMX141]

Has to be that particular manifold....the actual Turbonetics one that it copies is close, but has no major clearance issues even without milling flanges or adding spacers.

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[1slowhatch]

Has to be that particular manifold....the actual Turbonetics one that it copies is close, but has no major clearance issues even without milling flanges or adding spacers.

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Yeah, it wouldn't surprise me. Maybe the casting got a little off or something.

Maybe because my car is a 7 bolt/auto? Most HY35 installs I've seen in a 2g are on 6 bolt engines.

 

[biglady112]

We had to mill the flange in our manifold to make the stock holset housing work.

 

[boostdawd]

Have u tried removing removing the exhaust manifold and bolt it to the turbo first? Just a thought. I have a turbonetics t3 manifold on an hx 35 and the compressor housing allows for adequate clearance. This is on a 6 bolt though.

 

[Dsmkauai]

I can post a pic and measurements when I get home tom for ya You can see the spacer in the upper left corner of this pic under the gaskets.

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[1slowhatch]

So I removed the coolant banjo bolt and replaced it with a metric bolt/plug. A friend dented the coolant pipe quite a bit for me. I also enlarged all 4 turbo bolt holes 2 sizes. I am also running 2 exhaust manifold gaskets. It now just barely clears. Hopefully I wont have exhaust leaks. The OEM rad/fans look to clear with a little trimming on the shield on the driver side fan.

The lower intercooler piping looks to hook up without issue.

 

[1slowhatch]

Next question: Is the exhuast housing clockable on this turbo? I removed the pin from the compressor housing, so I can rotate that.. but the exhaust won't budge? It needs to rotate a fair about to get the oil feed on top and drain on the bottom. Any help!??

 

[bastarddsm]

Yes, it is clockable, I believe there is a pin on the hot side too.

 

[boostdawd]

The hotside is probably stuck.U may need to tap it with a hammer to allow it to rotate after u remove the bolts.

 

[1slowhatch]

Yes, it is clockable, I believe there is a pin on the hot side too.

Whew... definitely clockable, but what a pain to get apart! Heat it, hammer, penetrating oil, repeat.

Anyway, It's clocked correctly now, and bolts to the manifold. I trimmed the front motor mount/crossmember some to clear the intercooler piping. Also trimmed the back of driverside cooling fan to clear the wastegate arm/rod. I'm now working on the o2 housing, which is a lot of harder than I thought.

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[boostdawd]

I see an alternator relocation kit in the future . It's coming out great man! If I were u I would wrap that downpipe/O2!

 

[1slowhatch]

O2 is ugly, but finished. I wrapped the area near the alt. I'll start working on oil feed/return next.

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[1slowhatch]

Here it is all bolted up.

Gotta pull tcase/oil pan next. I'm having a hard time figuring out the oil drain. People say it needs to maintain 19mm? with no hard turns. I was going to just use -12 an 45 degree fittings and a -12 push lock hose, but the inside diameter of those fittings necks down quite a bit.

Maybe I should use a regular iron nipple in 3/4" angle welded (approx 45 deg) on the pan and make a similar adapter to go on the turbo? I can port the fittings with a die grinder if necessary to maintain a large diameter.

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[boostdawd]

See archerfab's tech article here
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/holset-hx40-installation.443321/

Also boostedbeavers vid
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/holset-oil-drain-the-right-way-hd-video.449950/

 

[boostdawd]

Nice job on the downpipe/O2 housing. It's coming out great!

 

[bastarddsm]

Do it exactly like I did and you won't have any issues.