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I will
It did toe out pretty bad, but nothing the alignment didn't fix. Good catch on the caster, I lost the same amount in caster. No binding or anything of that nature. I autocrossed this passed Sunday and no ill effects that I could feel or broken parts. Car drove pretty good actually.

I plan on slotting my upper control arms for even more camber. If I can get enough by just doing that, I will thread heim back in to gain some caster back.
see what they can come up with on the day, if i can get close to 2 degrees up front that will be fine by me, my end goal is 3 F and 2 R. Thats what ive worked out i want to run at the moment and im hoping my software (when i can afford it) tells me is is close to good for the setup etc etc we will see. Its all trial and error of course
 
Yes, trial and error is key. I've gone to the alignment shop twice already in the last 30 days and it will take at least 2 more times after I slot the arms. I have one more autocross event next Sunday and then nothing until May 1st. I'll more than likely make the change between then.

I'm currently at -1.7 degrees up front. My goal is to be at -2.5 degrees at a minimum. I'm -1.2 in the rear and will go down to -1.5, although I'm pretty happy with how the rear end is currently working. For road racing, I'd probably be a little more aggressive in the rear.
 
Yes, trial and error is key. I've gone to the alignment shop twice already in the last 30 days and it will take at least 2 more times after I slot the arms. I have one more autocross event next Sunday and then nothing until May 1st. I'll more than likely make the change between then.

I'm currently at -1.7 degrees up front. My goal is to be at -2.5 degrees at a minimum. I'm -1.2 in the rear and will go down to -1.5, although I'm pretty happy with how the rear end is currently working. For road racing, I'd probably be a little more aggressive in the rear.
Explain your front slitting your going to do?

I think with my camber kit uo back i can reach my -2 easy but fronts tough, ive not got around to building the front upper arms yet but the rears are well on their way so i should be able to get my numbers i need and when i get the fronts built then i can get -3 or more hopefully no problems if i even need that much camber.
 
Explain your front slitting your going to do?

First let me start buy saying there aren't any front camber kits out that I'm comfortable with. The adjustable ball joints strike the chassis and the eccentric bushings don't stay in place and fail over time. I thought about getting stock arms and cutting and welding them, but I'm not a welder and after looking at the arm shape, I don't think I can trust someone else to do it without paying a fabricator big bucks.

Instead, I plan on slotting the inner mounting points on the arms. Rather, drilling new holes a half inch in and welding washers for strength. You do have to zip off the rear of the arm a bit as it will contact that body, but I can do most of that at home. This should, in turn, give me the camber I want. I'm lucky my camber is equal on both sides so if I go a little too far, I'll just shorten my lower arms and get the camber where I want to be.
 
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First let me start buy saying there aren't any front camber kits out that I'm comfortable with. The adjustable ball joints strike the chassis and the eccentric bushings don't stay in place and fail over time. I thought about getting stock arms and cutting and welding them, but I'm not a welder and after looking at the arm shape, I don't think I can trust someone else to do it without paying a fabricator big bucks.

Instead, I plan on slotting the inner mounting points on the arms. Rather, drilling new holes a half inch in and welding washers for strength. You do have to zip off the rear of the arm a bit as it will contact that body, but I can do most of that at home. This should, in turn, give me the camber I want. I'm lucky my camber is equal on both sides so if I go a little too far, I'll just shorten my lower arms and get the camber where I want to be.
I kinda figured this was how you was going to do it. That would work though, the adjuster BJ do foul and kinda suck for strength and life. My plan is to use the same BJ as the lower arms or use a spherical bearing and see how that goes, gonna be a trial as to what hits and if it does at all, i do have another thread on this if you wanna look at this and keep an eye in it. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/cu...hbones-and-everything-else-eventually.493893/
 
If it helps either of you, -3 front (to make my Hoosier A6 tires happy) and -1.5 rear feels like the best balance so far over the years.
Thanks john, i doubt i will get -3 at the moment but i can certainly get -1.5 as thats where im at now and can go more, i will see what i can get from the front for now on sat, i will post up a pic of the setup once its done
 
I also managed to put my turbo back together tonight. Just need to buy a new retaining clip for the wastegate arm but other then that its done and another thing off my list to finish!

Just incase anyone wants info from it, its has
9 blade turbine wheel
Kts billet 7x7 high blade extended tip compressor wheel
Upgraded bearings and thrust washer
clocked down
And finally it has a forge actuator with 20psi spring

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If it helps either of you, -3 front (to make my Hoosier A6 tires happy) and -1.5 rear feels like the best balance so far over the years.

Thanks, John.

I'm not exactly sure on how much camber to run up front. My roll resistance is pretty good, although I want more. If I can get between -2.5 and -3, I'll be happy.



Turbo is looking gorgeous, Bobby. Same turbo/wheel I want to use for road racing with the stock block/trans.
 
They said the 7x7 is a great wheel with the added benifits of better torque lower down and it does not effect top end power! So i said i would try it out
 
What did you coat the hotside of your turbo with? It looks like you media blasted on page 2.
I did blast it, i used a ceramic base primer and a ceramic black overcoat then baked it on. Its ment to withstand alot of abuse and very high temps
 
Got tracking all done today! Much much nicer now, it was a pain to drive their but i took it slow and on the way back i had some fun to see how the new setup works and the arms and coilovers feel.

I ended up getting 2* up front and 1.5* rear. I could have got 2.5* up front but i got so much else to do i did not want it to be over and plus i wanted to see how this felt first.

From the install of the arms and tracking they showed up as pretty close to being bang on 2* up front. Much more would have created more caster issues and it kinda already did. The oem compression arms bushing is the same and ive not had a chance to flip it around to counteract the caster, its om though as it still feels good.

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Hey Bobby, Why is your Front, Left vs. Right caster so different?
Because the compression arm inner bush! Its still oem setup and i never got around to flipping it so thats why its low caster up front drivers side. I will flip the bush to make it better caster from L/R
 
Thanks, after some research now I understand the problem was/is and how to fix it!

Good news, is that I don't think I'm going to run into this problem b/c I've got a 95 :p

Thank you again!
 
Yeah they did this on some arms but not all! I have another set in the garage and they came from the factory all the same way! So its weird,
 
Not much has gone on recently folks, just collecting parts still and have pretty much all the parts now minus the fire extinguisher kit and harnesses,

Ive not had much time to spend on the car itself and now the wife wants to go to Florida Disney this year so what funds I had aside for the undertray/splitter/diffuser and spoiler has now gone into the vacation LOL so aero looks like it will be delayed till next year now .

Ive got some bits done but its nothing a great leap forward, ive modified my new waterpipe and blocked off all the water line ports, all cut off and welded up,
The upper thermostat housing has now had AN fittings welded on for my overflow, 6AN for the over flow and i welded a 8AN on the otherside just incase i need a swirl pot installed but i dont know much on them and placement so it was easier to weld it on anyway,

My VS3 catch can is here and ive got all my fittings and hose in now,
Also got a koul tool kit for fitting AN fittings and making it a breeze,

Also thought i would share a pic of my coolant i will be running. Its waterless and has better cooling effency then water plus as this is no water its no pressure from vapor so less pressures on pumps, gaskets and rad pipes, its nice stuff plus its lifetime and can be reused for years.so in the long run it can save you money.

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Nice stuff going on . Keep it up!
Cheers man, its slow but getting there slowly, now i just got to find down time to take the car off the road, i can expect it to be off for a good month or so, depending how fast i get stuff done, but now summer is kinda here longer days and warmer days means i can get more done in the week aswell, so i may have to cancel a few shows and meets i had planned and get everything installed, its not like i can do 1 thing at a time either because they all conflict with each other in a way and it just would be a ball ache even trying to do that haha.
 
Cheers man, its slow but getting there slowly, now i just got to find down time to take the car off the road, i can expect it to be off for a good month or so, depending how fast i get stuff done, but now summer is kinda here longer days and warmer days means i can get more done in the week aswell, so i may have to cancel a few shows and meets i had planned and get everything installed, its not like i can do 1 thing at a time either because they all conflict with each other in a way and it just would be a ball ache even trying to do that haha.

Yeah my whole damn build has been that way.....
 
Yeah my whole damn build has been that way.....
If only i did not use it for meets and some shows, although ive not booked any after beginning of next month so i may take it off the road then, at least yours is sitting there and can be worked on as and when LOL. I wish i could do that
 
So as normal not much time to spend on the car but instead listing some of the items i have got collected and things ive rebuilt. Had all this for a while now.

The throttle body and Intake manifold have both been fully rebuilt with new zinc plated parts and caps and sprayed and its an EVO 2 IM and TB so bigger and better.

Fic 1100 high Z injectors with plug. These allow me to grow to the 550HP i want in the future so i planned ahead and the 1100's have bee given a great review for great idle and fueling needs.

Stock fuel pump hanger re zinc coated and drilled and bokted up a 6AN feed connector, pump is a Deatchwerks DW200 225 pump, this setup will all change when i build the new fuel tank and then i shall run the DW inline DW350iL as its all I will ever need for fuel feed.

Couple of items from Kiggly, the hla regulator and the Alt pully

The ceramic painted and self ported FP manifold, and heatshield.

Then the Ecmlink boost controler

Thats my parts for now, i do have more and when i have time to go through the boxes i shall post up the pics or any new updates i got.

Im currently mocking up my oil pan to fully baffle it so thats being worked on slowly over some nights at work or break times, all takes time

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