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Whats up peeps,

Been trying hard to get ready for some test track days but keep getting delayed, but im nearly there and i am hopeing in july i can get out one 1!

Mocking up the new wheels was a thing i had to do and make a choice wether to modify or run spacers, when i got the wheels i knew it was needing 1 or the other option! When online checking it showed the front needed around 10-15mm and the rear i would keep my 1' spacer. But i decided to change plans at the end LOL,

I tested the fronts with no spacer with my mildly modified knuckles and they clear with close to 6.5mm gap clearance so thats good,

The rears would not clear with no spacer so i took to the grinder and made a nice path for the tire ro sit and clear, it actually did not need alot off and for record i did not reinforce any of it nor the fronts either, the fronts are fine and i believe the rears will be aswel, lets just call it weight shaving LOL

This now makes the setup different for me as i like the wider rear but i feel its safer for the wheel bearing strength. The rear will stick out 2" and the front 1.5". Now this is out the way my next steps are to modify the fenders to pull air out the wheel area and start making over fenders to cover the wheels and pass air over it.

Been also mocming up my pedal box but in a bit of a pickle as its very tight, and as im doing brakes first then accel i have to try make it at least match somewhat to each other, its beginning to look like i have to make this pedal to my spec aswel which is not what i planned or wanted! I can cut it down but that will drastically make the ratio worze and a very hard pedal to push.

So its coming along slowly but im doing vital bits now but getting there,

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Been getting some bodywork done recently as its whats next in my long list of bodywork items to be done!

Im doing this now as its ready to go to the molders as this is being made out of kevlar/carbon fiber in single skin form so its going to be pretty light but super rigid. The hood was my main concern because i want to extract as much heat as possible as we all know i melted a fan recently so i need as much help with heat as possible.

Im not amazing at bodywork but i think it came out pretty nice.

A few pics of the process along the way till final primer ready to be sent.

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Did you speak to your mold maker about priming your plug.
Better let that primer cure real good and plenty of wax coats and pva before doing lay up for mold.
I would have left it with the old paint, and coat of sealer around your body work.
Mandy
 
Did you speak to your mold maker about priming your plug.
Better let that primer cure real good and plenty of wax coats and pva before doing lay up for mold.
I would have left it with the old paint, and coat of sealer around your body work.
Mandy
He said to just prime it so he can see what he is working with, i guess old bad paint is hard to see stuff in compared to a fresh layer of paint,
he will do any other final prep work needed to the hood that he has to for best results so im just doing as im told as i have no clue for the correct way to prep for such things,

He might even sand it all down again to prep his way
 
Got some more parts developed,
The fender braces are made and are to my shape as i have clesrance issues with my fenders im modifying, (wont be shown till complete) so because of this i had to go around and this is all the room i had, i might be able to add 1 other bar halfway up the middle support but it might not be worth it.

Also hand made this pedal, just tacked together for now so i can mock the rest of it up and confirm the rotation is good for the master cylinders, its to my size because i was looking at all over pedal boxes and they all quite high and seem to be close with the stock steering column so i opted to make my own, i will be making a base to locate on the floor and fit nicely and as compact as possible. I got a billet accel pedal also i will tie into the floor plate and somehow figure out the cable situation LOL.

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So a thing happened today! Last minute I decided to go to a local ish cars and coffee meet as i have not been very social over the past year and as i was about to leave got told i was getting an award for best car of the day! Awesome, so i won over many other nice cars and a viper ACR-S!

First thing car related i have ever won.
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So a thing happened today! Last minute I decided to go to a local ish cars and coffee meet as i have not been very social over the past year and as i was about to leave got told i was getting an award for best car of the day! Awesome, so i won over many other nice cars and a viper ACR-S!

First thing car related i have ever won.
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YEEEEEEESSSSSSSS
 
Kick a**!! Props to you sir! That is not an easy task to do. Love the socks && the shift padels. Would love a how to so i can build a pair for myself.
 
Kick a**!! Props to you sir! That is not an easy task to do. Love the socks && the shift padels. Would love a how to so i can build a pair for myself.
I love these socks, i got like 3 pairs of them, 2 versions on white and black, LOL

I never built them shifters, i bought them from the company who did which is track formula here in the UK. Well Scotland to be exact. Linked with a road surge unit it works really well
 
Its all on youtube aswel if you want to see it in opperation
 
Not posted in a while, mainly because ive had no time on my car and i got all these lovely arms to make for the group, but once im done i will get back onto the car once again alot more!!!

I did manage to do a little fab work in break ti.es at work and got my rear roll bar canterlevers mocked up and ready to have machined out of billet, decided to make new rear lower arms and attach it to my shock instead, this setup and le.gth should see me in the mid 400lbs range of bar rate and its adjustable also and i can swap bars out in a few minutes to further stiffen or weaken it to suit,
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Dont worry about the mix match parts as they inly mockup items, all new items perfectly sized and bolts are being used and the plate is just a temp/mockup, once this is complete i can set it all off for coating and then get my ice subframe and parts on the car!



On another note a website is starting to blog my progress as they was very happy how i have gotten into suspension and wanting to learn it all being an amateur so check it out and look over the site! Its a great read and very useful
http://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/bobbys-build-an-introduction/ they also have a Facebokk page aswel if you want to follow them

Im looking into making my own racing radiator with internal coolers instead of air to liquid as i feel its going to need better cooling as time goes on so might as well make the jump now! So im looking at doing this by winter and adding an electronic waterpump with control unit to help keep it as stable as possible. Will have 2 built in coolers to the core, 1 trans and 1 oil, this is in phase 1 currently as i want to make it as big as possible to handle future power and cooling needs aswel.
 
Will this layout work with AWD cars? I'm really interested in bar options. Something these cars lack huge is bar options. I know that bars are the last step in suspension mods, but added tuning is always a good thing in my eyes. Great job as usual.
 
Will this layout work with AWD cars? I'm really interested in bar options. Something these cars lack huge is bar options. I know that bars are the last step in suspension mods, but added tuning is always a good thing in my eyes. Great job as usual.
Ideally yes however this is my custom location of ARB so its not stock location, but in theory it could work the same if the layout allows it to fix to the same location and results make it equate ro the same output, any minor alteration can adjust the bars rate, so it does vary,
 
Got a nice item in today, i took advantage of a cheap ebay buy plus i had a discount code for a very good amount off so used it on this thing!

Its my new EWP 150 from DC!

I decided to go this route not long ago actually because i wanted a new rad which is bigger and better and also has internal cooling for my oil and trans fluids. Since deciding to do this im now going to be making my own radiator with built in coolers to my spec and design and also relocating the rad further forward closer to the IC and better enclosure will be possible here. Possibly building a venting system straight out the hood from the rad also!

I have a decent amount of space and i can go a max of 100mm deep for the core but i believe the one i have chosen is 88mm deep, the core and internal coolers are still being looked at currently as i need to make sure its modular and its future proof for my needs like dry sump etc.

If all goes well i could possible have this done by winter, but i still need to order the FF water block off plates and adaptors for 20AN water lines/fittings

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Been developing my rear subframe and managed ro squeeze in a few hours to install this frame, i still need to do some final adjusting and calculating as i need to get the roll centers good to work with the front. Currently the fro ts raised up too much and its making the front and rear balance way off and that relates to a slower acting rear or swaying because the rear instant center is further away from the C of G so rsising the lower arms will help with this and help with less roll and also get the front to rear working together again!

So for now its just in and a small test drive but i will spend some time soon to plot out the arms and try see what i can do to get the front and rear working together again!

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Good things are coming. Im trying to get myself ready for a track day / test day on the 11th nov! FINALLY!

Ive just gone and picked up some Trofeo R race tires, 12 of them to be exact! All lightly used and pretty much new! Only done a few 30 min races on and then not used anymore and all this years dates on them! Cracking deal for them and he has more for me if i want them, and some might be free at some point! Cant say no to free good tires now can i! These all came from Porsche 996/997 GT cars,

So the next few weekends consist of getting my new dual trans temp sensors in and wired up, brake bleeding and pad swapping to my race pads, tires mounted on my new wheels and all final checks like oil and fluids etc etc.

If i dont make this one then there is another middle of dec i can go on, but just gotta see if my funds get me to this one in nov! Lets hope it does!

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Wish I was still there to see the car on the track. Make sure to get some recordings if the regulations allow!

There's a saying that once you get into racing, the most expensive thing becomes the tires, haha.
 
Slowly prepping for the trackday in hopes i do get to make it. So i swapped back in the XP10/8 pads modified the rear wheel bearing to stop the spring from hitting the ARP head of the extended wheel stud.

Put my new wheels on and did a general check over, i think i will bleed the brakes at the track but they seem to feel fine but worth doing as safety is first,

I went for a long drive today to a small car meet at the USAF base here, did a good 200 miles to see and feel how the tires react, its very different!
They tend to find the road differently and pull you around. Might be because of camber and contact patch on the tread but i know it certainly makes you hold on tight, on a track it might not be so bad, they are SUPER grippy tires and do their job where i was able to test them a bit.

So all is good and the tires and wheel feel nice,

Some more things to install before the trackday, so lets hope i make it.

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Been a while since I have updated anything here. I have been slowly progressing through some parts mainly custom items so its slow and well i throw it out if i dont like the finished item so i redo it again LOL.

I have a few projects i have been wanting to get finished and its getting there and this week i have finished or mostly finished a few things,

My dual master cylinder brake setup with rscing pedal is now 100% complete and can now be installed, however I am going to wait till I receive a very long awaited part! More to come on this once i get it.

For the pedals i ooted to make my own kit because i just could not fit any pedal box's in place either above or on the floor that left me with room or was not too high or hung low without serious modification, while it can be done and has been done i personally didnt not like the location etc. My pedal still offers bias adjustment and pedal ratio adjustment but not as much as those billet units,

All my parts are now Tilton items because i wanted masters that were compact. The reservior is also the compact version. Made a bracket for this to mount to the oem booster location.

I also have control over the rear pressures aswel with an inline prop valve. To finish it all off i had Hel performance do me all custom lines to my spec and sizes so everything front to rear will now be stainless.

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Another thing I been wanting to get done is to start making my fenders wider for the new wheels, I opted to not use flares so i went th route of a bit better aero work, it eventuslly will tie into the front bumper and splitter so will use all it can use.

The rears are going to be similer but not welded steel, the rear will be ABS plastic and held in the inner seams. The ABS is next to buy on my list but i need alot of it for the front and rear diffuser/splitter and thick too so its not cheap stuff to buy in big sheets so hopefully next month i can get that.

The fronts are full steel and welded because i wanted them to be stronger overall and now they are very rigid and strong. Once i kesrn more of my goals and needs/development i can do another set and to a higher aero standard and then i shall look at getting them copied into Kevlar/Carbon fiber for weight savings, for now these will do just fine and didnt add much weight really as its just thin sheet. I shall paint these myself in the R87 red

These are 2" wider each side. Also dont worry about the gap, this is just my mock up chassis.

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Whats up everyone, nice little update on some parts i got in today.
Remember the wheels i got not long ago because of my future brake upgrade?? Well i decided since i got the wheels i been puting some funds away for the new brakes

Specs and weights will be listed.

All anodised parts on the alloy side of things.

So these are a race radial mount caliper. these are outer seal less and have 6 pistons. I also opted for the Anti knock back springs behind the pistons as full floating can be troublesome so this will help keep pad contact better
These with the bracket weigh in at 9lbs dead on. The Brembo's i currently have are 8.1lbs.

The rotors are from the same factory AP racing get theirs made so the same quality applies here.
These are fully floating in the Rotor!!! NOT the bell, this means less wear on the bell and no need to replace it after every 3 changes, normally advised by many companys who use float in the bell setup. All float hardware is stainless steel.
They are 360mm vs my evo 320mm units and weigh less! A good amount less.
These weigh in at 15.4 lbs where as my current 2 piece set are 19.3lbs!

The brackets are custom from the normal set as i want to keep my brake ducts so they got a copy of my ducts and made the changes to suit and keep it open for me without any issues of structure strength.

The pads I went for this time are G-Loc R10 compounds and these only weight a fraction more then the brembo pads 0.3 to be exact. Basically the same as Carbotech and same compound which I cam happy with.

The kit is really nice and i still made a weight saving of near as damn it 3lbs total per side so thats good considering its bigger and better.

I would of loved a Pro 5000 radikal kit from AP racing but they was just too far out of reach,
Stoptech Trophy was another option and found a clearance kit but stoptech never replied to any of my emails or FB messages! So they lost out.

I shall let the pictures talk the rest for me.

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I am at work test fitting the brake on the knuckles and wheels today just to confirm zero issues will arrise when i come to install them, glad to say it all bolts up as it should and fits well.

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