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2007 1G Car Prep

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Are you talking about Koni's racing inserts, or their OE replacement cartidges? If you're talking about their racing ones, where would/did you get them from?

Thanks :)
Yeah, they're Koni Yellows inserts. Got them from ExtremePSI.com. They sell the rears and the fronts separately, not bad pricing either.
 
Photos of my dash work... you'll notice that I have angled bezels for 3 of the gauges so far. I still have to pick up more of those. I bought a sheet of 1/8" ABS plastic online to make that panel and will be using the rest of the sheet to make a custom center console to cover the shifter assembly.
 

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That looks really good Chris... you're becoming quite the fabricator.

On another note; How is your clutch assembly? If there's any play (as it will only get worse with all the shifting on the track), now would be the perfect time to swap a new one in there...
 
It's looking good. I love the driver-centered "cockpit" design DSMs have. It makes things like that gauge panel possible.

On the carpet- did you pull the padding off of the bottom of the carpet? Most of the weight of the stock carpet is in the padding and fluff on the bottom. You can pull that off and still have stock appearance carpet that weighs very little.
 
It's funny you mention the clutch pedal. I've had one sitting in a box for a year now and was about to put the dash back in when I realized it would be easier if I did it now while the dash was out. I just really don't feel like tackling that project! :)
 
You know, now that I have the dash out I have great access to the spot that needs to be welded on the clutch assembly (according to <a href=http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96981>this thread)</a>. I wonder if I'd be able to weld it in the car without having to pull the whole assembly? Just need to find someone who can bring their welder over :D
 
You know, now that I have the dash out I have great access to the spot that needs to be welded on the clutch assembly (according to <a href=http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96981>this thread)</a>. I wonder if I'd be able to weld it in the car without having to pull the whole assembly? Just need to find someone who can bring their welder over :D

PUT THE NEW ONE IN!!! RRE did a weld on mine that only lasted for 2-months. If it's a daily driver fine... but for racing do the duty, you won't regret it!!
 
Really? Damn, maybe I'll replace it... but I just realized I have the pedal, not the lever that the pedal connects to (the part that tends to wear out). I don't know. I haven't noticed any play so maybe I can get away with welding it for now until I get my next clutch. I'll see how much time I have left before the first event next month. With the heater core out it's really easy to get to now by pulling the dash (which will also be easier with all my modifications.
 
PUT THE NEW ONE IN!!! RRE did a weld on mine that only lasted for 2-months. If it's a daily driver fine... but for racing do the duty, you won't regret it!!

Did they just do a spotty job on the welding? (pardon the pun.) I find it surprising that a good weld would give up on a clutch pedal assembly even racing.

If it helps any Chris, my pedal assembly started rounding off towards the end of the shaft not towards the inside. I just cleaned up some of the mess it made with a file and torqued the nut down as tight as I could.

This might sound crazy, but what about using an epoxy on the pedal assembly before torquing the nut down? It could penetrate into the gaps and harden where a welding job can't reach.
 
Really? Damn, maybe I'll replace it... but I just realized I have the pedal, not the lever that the pedal connects to (the part that tends to wear out). I don't know. I haven't noticed any play so maybe I can get away with welding it for now until I get my next clutch. I'll see how much time I have left before the first event next month. With the heater core out it's really easy to get to now by pulling the dash (which will also be easier with all my modifications.

With as much access as you have right now it's a fairly simple job. Really :thumb:

NO WELDING >>>>>> NO EPOXY>>>>>> NO BUBBLE GUM>>>>>> JUST DO IT RIGHT THE LAST TIME! :)
 
<SNIP>
Parts that are on the way:

- Autometer Z-line water temp and oil temp gauges
- 2.5" Brake duct hose and NACA ducts
- FP 3150 (BB 50-trim using FP30 housing)
- FP Race Manifold
- FP recirculated 2.5" O2 housing

What can you tell us about the 3150 turbo? I saw the note from Forcedperformance about the new manifold, which I really like and the mention of the new BB 50-trim, which I would love to have. FP's site has no info that I could find. What is going to be the street price? Any other tidbits?

I've loved the FP 3065 series turbos and the trick turbine housing, but I'm not interested in a turbo that big on my car. Now that Robert appears to (gasp!) be going smaller, I'm interested. 400-450 at "reasonable" boost levels interests me greatly.
 
What can you tell us about the 3150 turbo? I saw the note from Forcedperformance about the new manifold, which I really like and the mention of the new BB 50-trim, which I would love to have. FP's site has no info that I could find. What is going to be the street price? Any other tidbits?

I've loved the FP 3065 series turbos and the trick turbine housing, but I'm not interested in a turbo that big on my car. Now that Robert appears to (gasp!) be going smaller, I'm interested. 400-450 at "reasonable" boost levels interests me greatly.
Don't have any info yet aside from what Robert said in that thread. It's a BB 50-trim using their FP30 housing. That's all I know.
 
Nice gauges Luda. Where can I pick me up a set that are brand new? ;)
Yeah, don't get me started on that... Friggin Defi discontinued the D-gauge so I couldn't get matching water temp and oil temp gauges. What a joke. I guess I should have stuck with Autometer from the beginning. I wouldn't have had this issue with them. I'll eventually swap all my Defi gauges out with Autometer so they match.
 
New RRE Camber plates going on... you'll notice these are the ones with added caster angle, which why I had to do some grinding on the shock tower for clearance.
 

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Looking good Chris! Those camber plates look sharp. Did they come with the strut brace brackets welded in or did you have those added?
The strut brace brackets are just from the GReddy strut bar. They're bolted in not welded. I just had to grind the brackets down a little as well.
 
New RRE Camber plates going on... you'll notice these are the ones with added caster angle, which why I had to do some grinding on the shock tower for clearance.


I have those. They might work but nothing could explain how pissed I was when I went to pick up my clean car only to find the towers have been hacked. :notgood: Either way it looks like your cut job was far better than the guy who did mine :thumb:
 
I have those. They might work but nothing could explain how pissed I was when I went to pick up my clean car only to find the towers have been hacked. :notgood: Either way it looks like your cut job was far better than the guy who did mine :thumb:
Sorry to hear that about yours - but glad to hear mine looks good :) I tried to only take off as little as necessary and still make it look good.
 
Sorry to hear that about yours - but glad to hear mine looks good :) I tried to only take off as little as necessary and still make it look good.

You should cover the metal too. The guys that did mine decided that a cut off wheel was the tool of choice and they decided to cut from the top so I have the over cuts past what needed to be cut. Looks like a 10 minute job. Either way good luck this summer. :thumb: :rocks:
 
I really want to see the wheels and tires because i have some D2's on my 1g that i want to run some wide tires so i can auto-x it. i want to see what the wheel fit is going to be.
 
possibly swapping the power windows for manual components

What is the benefit of this other than having to lean across the passenger seat to roll down the passenger window on hot days? The swap would probably save you half a pound of weight at most.
 
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