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1G 1G wiring harness

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YZFR1

10+ Year Contributor
533
53
Apr 8, 2010
Atlanta, Georgia
Could someone point me to some good 1G wiring harness threads or links?

I have been trying to search and can find some nice threads for 2G's but not for 1G's.

The only related thing i come up with is this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...g/364498-rerouting-engine-wiring-harness.html but it doesn't actually help to identify all of the connectors.

I'm looking into swapping out my wiring harness and possibly rerouting/tucking while at it.
 
^ That's my Tech Article! It's not meant to identify the connectors, just show you how to modify the way the harness is routed.

Here is what you need: 1G DSM 4G63 Turbo Wiring Harness

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Click on each connector and it will show you a picture of the actual connector and tell you what it is for. If you have any additional or specific questions ask away, I'm pretty familiar with the 1g engine harness.
 
I learned a lot from mine too i swapped interior and ecu harnesses out lot of work but learned a lot.
 
^ That's my Tech Article! It's not meant to identify the connectors, just show you how to modify the way the harness is routed.

Hey there, a great article. I did realize it wasn't meant to identify anything, just to make it more clean. But it seems to be the best thread for a 1G harness that i could come up with. Thanks for that other link!

Still not sure if i'm going this route but if i can't get to figure out my battery drain/short. Swapping harnesses out just seems the next logical thing to do. Have had the car not running for about 6 months now, got to do something.. still trying to go for that 14b maximization goal.. and this is holding me back damn it.. :ohdamn:

I just wish there was some kind of a walkthrough for it, the electrical stuff is not my strong point,but i guess i could just get in there, get dirty and hopefully learn a thing or two.. LOL

I might have some more questions later on.. thanks for the support guys!!
 
I have been going through the 1g engine and fusebox harness tor the last two weeks, relocating both. Let me just say that dicecting your harness is not for the weak minded or for people on ritlan! I have about four articles I use to help me and still sometime get confused. Sometimes it seems as though Mitsubishi had to make stuff over complicated. The external aspect of the harness is fine and easy to deal with, but the inside is a new ball game. Many wires join one another and you must have an understanding as to what each sensor is receiving as in signal type, not just the color of the wires. I will post the links to the pages I have in a few when I arrive at home.

Since we are on the 1g harness topic, I am going to jack the thread for a second. I am trying to locate most everything I can inside the cab rather than outside. This relay is in the engine bay on the top of the main branch. It's said to be the defogger relay, and tracking it back, it joins in the interior harness. The noise condenser spices into this line as well. So....the question is....Do I need this? and What defogger is this for, front or back? I have no AC and really have no need for a rear defogger. I will however be utilizing the heat. This is one of the only connectors I have no idea where to locate. Here is a pic....

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This is what I am dealing with....

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This is what I'm doing..making all new custom loomed connectors.

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Edit:

Here are the links which I have found very helpfull.

http://www.dsmtalk.com/gallery/data/500/Drawing2_Model_1_.jpg

http://tech.mirage-performance.com/1GDSMharness/1G-DSM-4g63EngineHarness.html

http://www.projectzerog.com/wiring_info.shtml

http://www.projectzerog.com/wiring-how_to.shtml

Hope this all helps.
 
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Thanks a bunch for that write up and links, Little-razcal! I would be going over them.

From the pictures it certanly does look to be pretty involved.

No worries on jacking the thread, i wish i could help. Hopefully someone out there could answer your question!
 
Thanks a bunch for that write up and links, Little-razcal! I would be going over them.

From the pictures it certanly does look to be pretty involved.

No worries on jacking the thread, i wish i could help. Hopefully someone out there could answer your question!

No problem, PM me if you need any more help.
 
This relay is in the engine bay on the top of the main branch. It's said to be the defogger relay, and tracking it back, it joins in the interior harness. The noise condenser spices into this line as well. So....the question is....Do I need this? and What defogger is this for, front or back? I have no AC and really have no need for a rear defogger. I will however be utilizing the heat. This is one of the only connectors I have no idea where to locate. Here is a pic....

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Yes, it is the defogger relay; It controls the electricity provided to the rear defroster.

Your project looks very clean. I stared using a similar braid for my harness I got from SUmmit Racing. Where did you get yours and what sizes are you using? I like how you heat shrinked it instead of using electrical tape. What about for T's on the harness, how are you joining them (or are you getting rid of them)?
 
Yes, it is the defogger relay; It controls the electricity provided to the rear defroster.

Your project looks very clean. I stared using a similar braid for my harness I got from SUmmit Racing. Where did you get yours and what sizes are you using? I like how you heat shrinked it instead of using electrical tape. What about for T's on the harness, how are you joining them (or are you getting rid of them)?

Thanks man.

I'm sorry but what do you mean "t"'s ? Are you referring to when the lines branch off?

I have tons and tons of this "snake skin" nylon wire loom in all different sizes and shrink of all sizes. I work with this stuff all day so getting a hold of this stuff is rather easy for me. Its pretty nice stuff and has a pretty high heat rating, so melting isn't a concern for the ambient heat. I do however tape the wires underneath just to protect them a little better. The loom is more for looks. So far I am only doing the small branches of individual connectors, most of which I use a 1/8" loom. This 1/8" size expands up to 1/2" so it is great for either single wires, or a few together. I then use shrink to secure it from moving, but you must take care when heating the shrink. I use a heat gun with 5 settings and gently shrink it down to its molding point.

If you need any supplys - loom, shrink, solder, ties, butt connectors, ect....just lmk..I have plenty.

I do have another question for you though..

This injector resistor usually lives up on the fire wall close to the injectors obviously. Now after tracking the wire paths down, there are lines running to each injectors, and a home run line running to the ECU. My question is..is it OK to put this in the cab as well? I'm trying to figure out why Mitsubishi put this so close to the injectors. I know obviosly it is best to be the closest to the destination because of signal loss and interference, but do you think it will be a OK to extend the wires and mount this inside the cab? I'm going to be running an easy tune box and it needs to splice into this resistor box as well, so inside would be ideal.

I will be putting the following inside..LMK if you think all this is OK to live inside.

Injector resistor
Power trans unit
Noise condenser
Fuse box

The only reasoning for any of this stuff not to work would be distance of the signal and loosing signal strength. I have upgraded all wire to at least 16awg, so hopefully this helps.

I also plan on running the alt. in the main harness because I have the relocation kit. Do you think putting this bigger power in the main harness will induce electro magnetic interference (aka noise).

Lastly... a few of my sensors run off the ECU's sensor grounds (input 17+24). Will it be OK to combine all these grounds in one spot instead of branching them off like they do in the original harness? I don't see why not, but still doesn't hurt to ask. I know grounds can be tricky.

Sorry for the long post. I have lots of questions but I am really trying to find out the answers myself.
 
Thanks man.

I'm sorry but what do you mean "t"'s ? Are you referring to when the lines branch off?

I have tons and tons of this "snake skin" nylon wire loom in all different sizes and shrink of all sizes. I work with this stuff all day so getting a hold of this stuff is rather easy for me. Its pretty nice stuff and has a pretty high heat rating, so melting isn't a concern for the ambient heat. I do however tape the wires underneath just to protect them a little better. The loom is more for looks. So far I am only doing the small branches of individual connectors, most of which I use a 1/8" loom. This 1/8" size expands up to 1/2" so it is great for either single wires, or a few together. I then use shrink to secure it from moving, but you must take care when heating the shrink. I use a heat gun with 5 settings and gently shrink it down to its molding point.

If you need any supplys - loom, shrink, solder, ties, butt connectors, ect....just lmk..I have plenty.

I do have another question for you though..

This injector resistor usually lives up on the fire wall close to the injectors obviously. Now after tracking the wire paths down, there are lines running to each injectors, and a home run line running to the ECU. My question is..is it OK to put this in the cab as well? I'm trying to figure out why Mitsubishi put this so close to the injectors. I know obviosly it is best to be the closest to the destination because of signal loss and interference, but do you think it will be a OK to extend the wires and mount this inside the cab? I'm going to be running an easy tune box and it needs to splice into this resistor box as well, so inside would be ideal.

I will be putting the following inside..LMK if you think all this is OK to live inside.

Injector resistor
Power trans unit
Noise condenser
Fuse box

The only reasoning for any of this stuff not to work would be distance of the signal and loosing signal strength. I have upgraded all wire to at least 16awg, so hopefully this helps.

I also plan on running the alt. in the main harness because I have the relocation kit. Do you think putting this bigger power in the main harness will induce electro magnetic interference (aka noise).

Lastly... a few of my sensors run off the ECU's sensor grounds (input 17+24). Will it be OK to combine all these grounds in one spot instead of branching them off like they do in the original harness? I don't see why not, but still doesn't hurt to ask. I know grounds can be tricky.

Sorry for the long post. I have lots of questions but I am really trying to find out the answers myself.

Oh ok. I was wondering what brand it was. I used this stuff from Summit Racing: Summit Racing SUM-890340 - Summit Racing® Braided Wire Wraps - Overview - SummitRacing.com. Is what you are using pretty much the same thing?

I meant where the wires branch off at a right angle (but really anywhere wires branch off from the rest of the harness). How are you going to join those connections?

I see no problem mounting the injector resister pack by the ECU. I've seen it down before with no problems reported. Mine is actually mounted on the IM support bracket just to clean up the firewall but when I get around to moving my fusebox to the glove box I'll probably move the resister pack inside too.

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For your power and ground questions, I don't know. Are you talking about the stock sensors or aftermarket sensors? I would check with luv2rallye or steve as they are true electrical geniuses.
 
The brand on loom is a company called Alpha. I use them regularly and they make some good supplies. I buy these in rolls of 100ft, and shrink in lengths of 4ft. Seriously, let me know if you need anything and ill hook you up.

As for the right angles, this is where this gets a little tricky. See the problem as you know is this is a closed loom. To use this loom for the entire harness is going to be a pain, but I think it can be done . The problem is that it has to be done in steps. I plan on threading each branch through the main harness loom if that makes sence. Basically I'm taking each plug and poking it through a main bigger loom. I hihave yet to see how this is going to look, but I think it will be just fine. If not, then the other option is to have all the plugs fan out of one main loom instead of trying to branch out the side of the loom. This may be easier, but I'm going to try the threading first. Im sorry if I lost you on trying to explain this, but I will try to post some pictures with how I'm doing it. Thanks for the help on the wiring.
 
little-razcal;

Any notes/ideas you would like to share concerning your re-wire, I would LOVE to hear. I've just started doing the same thing myself.
 
What do you want to know? I can help you as much as I can, but either way it is a HUGE headache and very time consuming. I have to hold off for about a week to do an online certification for work. I have already filed an extension twice for because of this damn car:D But anyway....what would you like to know?

Are you relocating your fusebox? Redoing the harness? Deleting sensors?

Im getting rid of a entire box full of connectors I dont need.

Foglights
Horn
ABS
Powersteering
AC
Relays
ECT..

Hopefully when I open the hood, all I will see is that big A$$ turbo staring me in the face instead of all the clutter:thumb:
 
What do you want to know? I can help you as much as I can, but either way it is a HUGE headache and very time consuming. I have to hold off for about a week to do an online certification for work. I have already filed an extension twice for because of this damn car:D But anyway....what would you like to know?

Are you relocating your fusebox? Redoing the harness? Deleting sensors?

Im getting rid of a entire box full of connectors I dont need.

Foglights
Horn
ABS
Powersteering
AC
Relays
ECT..

Hopefully when I open the hood, all I will see is that big A$$ turbo staring me in the face instead of all the clutter:thumb:

I'm taking my spare 90 harness and making it work with my 91 engine. I'm not going for the fully tucked look, just cleaning it up by shortening/simplifying the routing.

So any tips you have would be appreciated, things to look out for, etc.

Also, I'm using the same type of loom. Not quite sure how that will fare in the long run, so I'd like any hints on that as well.
 
Where does one start, when taking out the harness?

Could someone provide me with a quick outline for removing the wiring harness. It would be most helpfull.
 
Where does one start, when taking out the harness?

Could someone provide me with a quick outline for removing the wiring harness. It would be most helpfull.

Unplug all the connectors in the engine bay and move the entire harness to the passenger side fender. Then unplug the connectors from the ECU/MPI and the Dash harness (both in the center console and under the dash/by the foot well on the passenger side.

From here you can loosen up the AC/heater boxes and try to wiggle the inside part of the harness up into the engine bay (this will take patience and work a lot better with two people) or you can pull the entire dash. This is more time consuming but the harness will come out a lot easier. I have done it both ways. Either way the harness needs to get pulled towards the engine bay and come out that way.

Hope this help!
 
That is very helpfull information. I guess, i need to decide if i want to play with the heater boxes or take out the dashboard. Either way, sounds fun.. LOL

What about the wiring pack that goes underneath the radiator and into the driver's side fender? I assume i need to take the fender apart to trace that one or is there a better way to do it.
 
That is very helpfull information. I guess, i need to decide if i want to play with the heater boxes or take out the dashboard. Either way, sounds fun.. LOL

What about the wiring pack that goes underneath the radiator and into the driver's side fender? I assume i need to take the fender apart to trace that one or is there a better way to do it.

I thought you were just talking about the engine harness. The harness those goes into the drivers side fender is seperate and you do not need to remove it in order to remove the engine harness.
 
Oh ok, i didn't realize it was a seperate harness.

I suspect that i might have a short somewhere in that loom that goes into the driver's side fender. So i might not even need to get at the engine harness. Not sure though.

How do i get to it though, take fender apart?

I wish i could somehow by-pass everything and test my engine harness in a standalone mode and take it from there. Not sure if there is a good way to do that.
 
Okay didn't want to start a whole thread for this simple question

But I had to remove my rear seats to get cleaned from some unpleasant orange juice absorbing into the seat

And I seen these two black wires (pictures below)
That seem out of place so has anyone seen this before?

On an unrelated note I'm really liking the look of having no rear seats atm hah

Oh an the last picture may be what it is but idk never seen this before in any 1g I've dismantled for parts.
there's a bundle of black wire (in the rear by the antenna )for connecting that metal box with a yellow tag that says connect to antenna switching unit
(Ignore timing light )

Ideas? Stock?

It's a 91 laser rs turbo all options including rear cd changer
 

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Related question: Has anyone bought an entirely new harness? Currently finding a lot of shorts/lost signal from frayed wires, loose pins, etc. Wondering if it is more of a time headache to trace down and fix or more of a wallet headache to buy new:idontknow:
Has anyone bought a harness? Currently looking at Rywire engine harness for 6-fitty (NOT six dollars and fifty cents......)
 
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