The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

1996 Eclipse AWD

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BayState300GT

10+ Year Contributor
67
0
Aug 22, 2008
Allston, Massachusetts
Whats up everybody, I'm Chris, I'm 22 and this is my 4 year in the making project car. I bought it when I was 18 right when I got out of highschool. I had always wanted to find a white 2g awd with little to no modification. I happened to be on Craigslist one night and saw this car for sale in the next town over from me. First thing the next morning I went there with a trailer and picked it up. It had just over 100,000 miles, cut springs and had been sitting for a year. I brought it home and quickly put it on the road. About a week later on my way to school, the timing belt snapped and I sat on the side of the road for 5.5 hours waiting for AAA to bring a flat bed. I brought it home and then had a big decision to make. Either fix the head, and keep the 7 bolt or do a fully built 6 bolt swap. I decided to go with a 6 bolt swap. I pulled the 7 bolt out and bought a 6 bolt from a local preformance shop. When i took the motor apart I found that somebody had tapped the head with different bolts above the cams, and one of the ears on the block was completly broken off. I bought another head and brought my block to a local machine shop called Custom Auto Machine/ Camco Race Engines. It was there for about a week. I paid them to bore the cylinders .20 over, bake, wash align hone the block. They hot tanked it, didnt bake it, and when i measured the cylinders they were crooked and also over bored past .20. They refused to refund my money, so I ended up buying another block and and brought my new head and block to a machine shop in NH called R&L engines. They did an awesome job and I highly recommend them. As time went on the build got bigger and bigger. I had originally had planned to have it down for about a year, but 3 years later here I am still building it. Anyways heres some pics and info on the car.

The day i bought it
gsxx1.jpg

Snapped timing belt
gsxx3.jpg


GSX with my old 3000gt
gsx026.jpg

Cleaning up the underside/ removing rust
gsx021.jpg
[/IMG]

Shaved valve cover
gsx010.jpg

First 6 bolt
n668980584_5000739_9900.jpg


First portion of new parts
dsmparts008.jpg


Back when it was a 2ga
bnmbmbv.jpg


Junk 7 bolt head
moredsmpartsq.jpg


New bottom end
dfghjk.jpg


Old 7 bolt out
madpixyoillminute029x.jpg


New poilshed crank
motor5.jpg


The 1st 6 bolt block, see all the rust? i paid to have that baked and cleaned out.
motor4.jpg


New top end
primer9.jpg


All painted up
primer7.jpg


More parts
chris219.jpg


New head back from R&L
003.jpg

002.jpg


2gb conversion, big FMIC with my old s13
221892_10150603574160585_668980584_18694790_4593167_n.jpg


gsx.jpg


Motor
Wiesco pistons .20 over
Eagle H beam rods
ARP main bolts
ARP rod bolts
Polished Crank
Block was baked/blasted/magnafluxed
Jet washed
Bored .20 over
Block was squared and decked
Align honed
Powder coated black
New crankshaft oil plugs
New block freeze plugs
New head freeze plugs
New valve guides
3 angle valve job
Head cleaned/ bead blasted
Resurfaced head
Resurfaced valve seats

Fuel/ Engine management
Prosport digital guages (color changing depending on time of day) Boost, Oil pressure, Oil temp
AEM wideband 02 -
DSM link V3- still need to order
FIC 950cc injectors
STM tank to rail kit
Fuel lab fuel filter (purple)
Fuel lab FPR (purple)
Aeromotive fuel rail (red)
STM rail to fpr kit
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Mishimoto coolant hoses

Suspension/ Brakes/ Drivetrain
Tokico Illuminas
H&R springs
All new hardware, top hats etc from mitsu
OEM rotors with hawk hps pads all the way around
Ingalls front camber kit
New tie rod ends
New axles
RM racing sway bars - still need to order
Fidanza flywheel- stilll need to order
ACT 2600 clutch 6 pluck
New slave cylinder
SS clutch line
Non crusie control throttle cable
SS master to slave line
ARP flywheel bolts
Prothane motor mounts (red)

Intake/Turbo/Exhaust
Ebay intake pipe with K&N filter (dont care its just a piece of metal)
SRS full 3 inch exhaust no cat
PR recirculated 02 housing
tial 38mm wastegate
PR 3" downpipe
PR FMIC
Greddy type S bov
Hahn 20g turbo (got it for free)
Still need to find a turbo manifold but havent decided if im going to change my turbo set up i probably will

ICE/Exterior/ InteriorWhite faced gauges
Prosport digital gauges
Jensen 7" tv with touch screen
JBL speakers
Red sparco fighter seats
2b conversion (still need side skirts)
Also looking for hi-rise wing
Full roll cage SCCA style (soon enough)

I know im forgeting a ton of stuff this was just off the top of my head
 
Last edited:
So I ordered a set of sparco seat brackets for my fighter seats. I waited 3.5 months for them to show up. Finally get them and they dont fit my seats. Not only that but the seats sat too high, higher than stock. So I ended u sending them back and decided to just fabricate my own. I plan on road racing this car, so the having the seat low is a necessity because i need to be able to fit in the car with a helmet on, plus I'm 6'4. Yes theres alot of rust on the floor, must have been a window leak at one time. But anyways I started drilling out the spot welds. Got one bracket out, one bracket half out and still have 2 more to go. I will be posting pics as i do this.

Starting out
1234.jpg


Spot welds drilled
483992_422806514428131_755811841_n.jpg


Bracket out
486578_422806621094787_2074801803_n.jpg


Old bracket #1
559163_422806644428118_301283778_n.jpg


Mocking up for where im going to weld the seat and at what angle, ON THE FLOOR!
409673_422844944424288_534688787_n.jpg
 
So im looking for some input from people on the forum. Ive been building this car for 4 years now, but it has been sitting for 4 years. Currently it really sucks that i dont have a car to drive everyday. I had been thinking of buying another 240sx, but then yesterday an idea popped into my head. I thought what if i went out and bought another gsx. Reason being i do i need a car, plus the more and more i get into my build i find more rot, and rust and metal work that needs to be repaired. Currently the prices of a used gsx are dropping becuase of their popularity dropping, and age. What i would have paid $6000 or, 4 years ago is now going for $2500-3500. So im thinking of taking everything out of my car, because it is all brand new, and buying another one thats running and slapping it all in there. Basically take my suspension out of the shell, put it in the new car and put the new cars suspension in the shell. Just swap everything and in about a days work i can have a really sweet DSM again, plus have tons of spare parts. Then either sell of junk the shell, What do you all think?
 
In my opinion I say keep going with this one and keep another great dsm from leaving this world. Also then you know everything's done done after your finish and its done to your standards, a good shell might not be so good in actuality (I thought I got a rust free shell....HA riiiiight!).

Got out and buy another 240sx man that way you have the best of both the sports car worlds! Awesome autoX/ track car and a awesome drift car! plus 240's aren't to expensive, cheap ones are pretty common. my .02$

I feel you big time on the rust thing, my 1g talon has a lot of it that you don't see till you tear it right down.
 
i'd say if you do buy another, keep that how it is and use it as a DD, keep building this one, that means 1 awd turbo dd and another awd turbo weekend warrior. best of both worlds.
 
thanks guys i appreciate the input. But two things i didnt mention were that the rear passenger quarterpanel and driver both do need to be replaced also jut recently i saw that the rear passenger wheel well was smashed in multiple place. After that i took out the trunk panels and found bent metal in there also. Thats been the kicker for me. Also when i was drilling out the spot welds i did notice the whole floor would flex with just a push of my hand (not hard either) I think i need some time to think this all through before i make my next move
 
Hey man if you ever need some help just hit up your old friend from school you know and down for whatever
 
Finish the build man. It'll be worth it..
 
Finish the build man. It'll be worth it..

:thumb:


@ BayState300GT- The floor in my 1g flex's to man and that's with out rust, you already know what I think you should do but good luck man I know its not an easy decision.
Any more picks of the cancer you can post?
 
:thumb:


@ BayState300GT- The floor in my 1g flex's to man and that's with out rust, you already know what I think you should do but good luck man I know its not an easy decision.
Any more picks of the cancer you can post?

Ya I can post some soon, its just the car is about 30 miles away at my parents house. So i can only work on it sometimes. But thanks for the input everyone.
 
Been a while since I've updated this thread. Anyways started rebuilding my motor. I've been trying to get it ready for summer. Here's some pics.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1361311845.106400.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1361311871.139702.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1361311912.947472.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1361311972.673755.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top