1995 GSX Build - Journey to a 450awhp daily driver

[Speedlane]

wow this is amazing i would love to see me of this!

 

[Dyesuperman]

wow this is amazing i would love to see me of this!

Thank you!

I re-edited a picture from above and think it turned out much better

 

[boblong6]

very sick, looks clean man, keep up the nice work. one day mine will be there.

 

[Dyesuperman]

very sick, looks clean man, keep up the nice work. one day mine will be there.

Thank you sir, just takes hard work and money





December 23, 2012 - New crankcase pressure evac setup (ie-new valve cover)

Well boys and girls, I switched up my valve cover a bit, and will soon be switching my accent color from red to something a little more...unique. But that will come later when I get money for powdercoating

For this update though, we shall focus on the valve cover and all of its glorious-ish-ness. For a while now I have had oil leaking from the weirdest places (oil pan, top of turbo oil return line, valve cover, internally from the cas) so I figured something was going on with my crankcase pressure. I thought it was odd since I already had 2 -10an hoses coming off of it to a Calan catch can, which has a -12an hose going to the intake. This seems to work for most people at preventing any pressure buildup...but apparently my car is weird. Or my motor is dying, whichever works. Compression was 150 across the board so it is well within spec for a 130k stock motor that has had the piss beat out of it by the previous owner and somewhat by me. No leakdown to verify any pressure loss past the rings, but whatever, I wanted a new valve cover anyhow so I could customize it. Also, this one would retain the pcv valve, rather than eliminating it like my current setup.

Luckily, I had one lying around that a friend had given me nearly two years ago. It made it through two moves and I finally decided to use it. He had already shaved most of it, I just had to touch up a few spots. Already had the holes drilled in top for the fittings to be welded in and had the stock baffles drilled out. I wanted something a little more customized than that though, so I took the plunge and ordered a Vibrant oil cap. (No more leaky oil cap for this guy). I took everything to a local shop and told him what I wanted done and proceeded to order Compworks baffles to be put back in after everything was welded up. This is the result.

An area I smoothed out with a file, the two ridges aren't there anymore

Full view yo

Vibrant cap and bung awesomeness

Compworks baffles

Ok, so step one was done, I had the valve cover finished. Now I just had to get it on and swap over -an hoses...and add another catch can

It's on! Raw finish for now, powdercoat to come later

Up close and personal

The second catch can I bought was an unknown brand to me called AMW. I had never heard of it before but a local posted it up for sale on a local forum for $30 so I figured I couldn't go wrong. I asked him if it had any baffling and surprisingly he said yes. My interest was piqued, so I ventured on to researching the brand. Come to find out, it seems a lot of LSX guys use AMW catch cans on their cars and they typically sell for a much prettier penny. I'm down with that. So I bought it immediately and here is what the inside looks line. Pretty good machining if you ask me, and a good design as well.

Moving on to my Calan catch can, that ho was dirtier than, well, a ho I suppose. Because ho's are dirty my friends, and you should never touch that because it could look like this inside

Luckily a bit of gas solved this problem and cleaned it right up after sitting a bit. (Do not try this on a ho, as that is called murder, and is highly frowned upon in most societies) While that was going on I decided to find a place to mount the other catch can. Luckily, the motor mount presented itself as a likely candidate for mounting.

I had to go to Ace Hardware for a bolt to use for the bracket on the catch can, but it all worked out and it fit there like a glove.

I added this guy between the catch can and intake to prevent any boost pressure from leaking into my motor because of a bad pcv valve.

Now I don't have pictures of the last part, re-doing one of the -10 hoses going from the catch can to the valve cover, but let me just say. That thing was a bi**h to get together. Geez, I thought it was bad enough the first time I did it, but it was just as bad this time. Yet again, I scratched up my $15 a piece fittings getting it on there. My problem is getting the threads started on it, same problem every time. I think my mistake was not using oil on the fitting to lube things up though, idk. All I know is that it is done, and hopefully for a while.

Happier thoughts now, tis on and complete! Well, for the most part. As I said earlier, powdercoating will come later on. There are no car shows or the like coming up so I am not too worried about it.

And that ends this update. Next one will be of me trying to fit my DCSports strut bar, the driver side shock shaft touches it when mounted so I have to drill out the holes or something. Never seen that problem before so I don't know why it does that. Also seems to hit my hood or something, it's all screwed up

 

[psycho]

It might be a 4g63 thing, but what's that hard line that runs across the top of your firewall?

Also, if you have a vice, this tool helps with the assembly of those hose ends, as I had the same trouble you had.
http://http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fra-900061

 

[sypherzero]

It might be a 4g63 thing, but what's that hard line that runs across the top of your firewall?

Also, if you have a vice, this tool helps with the assembly of those hose ends, as I had the same trouble you had.
http://http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fra-900061

The line on the top of the firewall is one of the A/C lines.

 

[psycho]

Ah! Gotcha.

And for some reason my link doesn't work and I can't edit it. But they're Fragola Vise jaw inserts. It's like a 3rd hand when installing the fittings.

 

[turboglenn]

September 16, 2012 - BLT, E85 goo, and goodies


Welp, slight update. TOB is still making noise but I don't feel like changing it until winter so I am leaving it as is for now.

EDIT: how'd you keep those fittings from hitting the hood????? mine doesn't have the room with poly engine mounts *end edit*

Now you sound like a true hard core DSM'er... , I always think it but never post it when i hear about TOB noise.. I see it like this, if i know it's in good shape, i know it's lubed sufficiently and it's still noisy..well, i'm just gonna leave it there until i feel like changing it at that point... of course dealing with pains that make you feel like you were trampled by a horse after doing an R&R on the trans might be my main reason.. i think for most the fact that it's a DSM could also be enough to lead others down the same path with them...I've had some that were noisy at first then within a hundred miles went quiet. but if the trans is not fully in (say no t-case, bolted to engine only, not to body) and i hear the noise on initial test start, I will pull to replace simply because it's not all the way back together.

of course once i got the advice from Tim Z (twicks69) to use an engine hoist from above to handle the transmission weight, the job got so much easier to do that on a car like mine with minimal OEM parts and minimal parts that don't serve a direct required function mine is probably 10 times easier to change than one in a stock or near stock DSM (the hoist method though, i can't say enough about... I unhook the top tranny mount and put the chain on one of the 17mm bolt studs as soon as i can in the process (removing the 2g cruise control solenoid makes this easier to get to without worry of breaking the cruise unit)

but that's the only way i've found where i can get the input shaft lined up and inserted in the clutch disk within litterally 10-15 minutes compared to using a jack from underneath and having to angle, spin, re-angle and tilt then raise, lower and dance an irish jig to get it lined up..having it dangle on a chain where you can rock/tilt it easily just takes all the pains outof lining them up..another good tip is to pull the little rubber vent (i pull either the topor front most of the three and use a light to peek in and guide the shaft to clutch hole)

I would really like to hear more about your experience with that cluch after some hard launches ( so far my ACT 2600 with parts store full organic disk is handling 4800-5200RPM 2-step launches quite well...untill i learned how to get it out fast enough to not break parts and also not overheat it too much i'm now finally not affraid to launch my car decently where i leave the line spinning 3 if not all 4 tires anytime i want wihtout too much worry. I may not get the holeshot because i get it moving just a tad, then as soon as i feel that's where the engagement point is i keep on the gas and lift my foot almost as fast as possiblewihtout it being a straight "dump", but not where i feel like i am intentionally "slipping" the clutch either... if you haven't figured it out dn't worry you will... but you have the clutch that should be able to handle the overheated practice tried until you get it right

here's 2 examples, the one in daylight you can see me get it rolling a tad then really launching, in the second vid you can see that it's fast enough that can waste a little time to catch up and pass thins that aren't AWD

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8zmKcSL7M0&list=UUyubk42vKhQPOFVewcUtulw&index=5]1 2 slowshift - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0n8zJ_eczng]1 2pull exploder - YouTube[/ame]

I'd also like to add that GAWD DAMN That car hasgotten way sexy in the last year

 

[Dyesuperman]

Ah! Gotcha.

And for some reason my link doesn't work and I can't edit it. But they're Fragola Vise jaw inserts. It's like a 3rd hand when installing the fittings.

Yeah I saw those when looking up how to best install the hoses. Unfortunately I don't have a vice though :/

EDIT: how'd you keep those fittings from hitting the hood????? mine doesn't have the room with poly engine mounts *end edit*

Now you sound like a true hard core DSM'er... , I always think it but never post it when i hear about TOB noise.. I see it like this, if i know it's in good shape, i know it's lubed sufficiently and it's still noisy..well, i'm just gonna leave it there until i feel like changing it at that point... of course dealing with pains that make you feel like you were trampled by a horse after doing an R&R on the trans might be my main reason.. i think for most the fact that it's a DSM could also be enough to lead others down the same path with them...I've had some that were noisy at first then within a hundred miles went quiet. but if the trans is not fully in (say no t-case, bolted to engine only, not to body) and i hear the noise on initial test start, I will pull to replace simply because it's not all the way back together.

of course once i got the advice from Tim Z (twicks69) to use an engine hoist from above to handle the transmission weight, the job got so much easier to do that on a car like mine with minimal OEM parts and minimal parts that don't serve a direct required function mine is probably 10 times easier to change than one in a stock or near stock DSM (the hoist method though, i can't say enough about... I unhook the top tranny mount and put the chain on one of the 17mm bolt studs as soon as i can in the process (removing the 2g cruise control solenoid makes this easier to get to without worry of breaking the cruise unit)

but that's the only way i've found where i can get the input shaft lined up and inserted in the clutch disk within litterally 10-15 minutes compared to using a jack from underneath and having to angle, spin, re-angle and tilt then raise, lower and dance an irish jig to get it lined up..having it dangle on a chain where you can rock/tilt it easily just takes all the pains outof lining them up..another good tip is to pull the little rubber vent (i pull either the topor front most of the three and use a light to peek in and guide the shaft to clutch hole)

I would really like to hear more about your experience with that cluch after some hard launches ( so far my ACT 2600 with parts store full organic disk is handling 4800-5200RPM 2-step launches quite well...untill i learned how to get it out fast enough to not break parts and also not overheat it too much i'm now finally not affraid to launch my car decently where i leave the line spinning 3 if not all 4 tires anytime i want wihtout too much worry. I may not get the holeshot because i get it moving just a tad, then as soon as i feel that's where the engagement point is i keep on the gas and lift my foot almost as fast as possiblewihtout it being a straight "dump", but not where i feel like i am intentionally "slipping" the clutch either... if you haven't figured it out dn't worry you will... but you have the clutch that should be able to handle the overheated practice tried until you get it right

here's 2 examples, the one in daylight you can see me get it rolling a tad then really launching, in the second vid you can see that it's fast enough that can waste a little time to catch up and pass thins that aren't AWD

1 2 slowshift - YouTube

1 2pull exploder - YouTube

I'd also like to add that GAWD DAMN That car hasgotten way sexy in the last year

Haha yeah, I just really didn't feel like dropping the trans again after already having it all back together. Oh well, it still makes a bit of noise but I will change it out fairly soon for a new one. I will take your advice on using the engine hoist though, I never thought of that. Should make things much simpler.

I haven't really had a chance to test the clutch out on the track yet, the last time I went I made a pull on the way there and my alternator tensioner bolt broke, so the belt would have likely came off during a run. It seems to be holding pretty well though and feels great. I need to practice some street launches more using your technique and see if it still holds well then.

And thank you for the compliment, it's been a long year . Now it is time for the next one and to see how I can change it between now and the end of this next one

Oh, and I have no idea how they don't hit the hood really bad. The back one seems to be touching the heat shield a bit so I need to trim that, but it doesnt seem like too major of rubbing. I also have prothane inserts on the side mounts and then just the stock ones on front and rear.

-Caleb

 

[Dyesuperman]

Car is down for various upgrades/maintenance...more pics to come after it is done. For now, here are a few to give a hint as to what is going on...

Who needs a fender when you have wiring to hide for an electronic boost controller?

This wiring is going bye bye...pretty much all of it

Anndd certain parts may have been sent to the local powdercoaters....

 

[Miasma]

Wow that was a lot of reading, first time loking at this build. Very nice work! Props and congrats on the mag feature.

 

[Dyesuperman]

Wow that was a lot of reading, first time loking at this build. Very nice work! Props and congrats on the mag feature.

Thank you

 

[Asceph10]

Hey dude how did you get all the money for this build and when did you start it? And in total how much do you think you have invested?

 

[DSM_ThuNDeR]

who makes those chrome wheels??

 

[99GS_Turbo]

such a beautiful build man...This is making me sick looking at how beautiful your car is compared to mine

 

[Dyesuperman]

who makes those chrome wheels??

The wheels are Advan RG1s that I had polished

such a beautiful build man...This is making me sick looking at how beautiful your car is compared to mine

Haha I suppose thank you, but sorry for making you feel that way! Haha

 

[Dyesuperman]

January 26-February 16, 2013 - Headliner work, powder coating, wire tuck, water pump replacement, ebc install

Alrighty, let's see where to start. I guess I can start with the headliner work, although I did it before the dates listed above. I finally got the motivation to cut up a spare headliner I had to see if it would work, and surprisingly I think it is going to.

Some cutting

Filled in some extra holes

And how it looked when I stopped for the day

Unfortunately, that's as far as that project got for now. I located the fabric I will be using and bought the spray adhesive, but I need to fix the small leak I have first and decide if I want to make it power again, which I will likely do since I was only quoted $100 to put a new motor in with switch.
Fast forward to January 26th, this is the day the car started to come apart.
Parts taken off for the powder coater.

The water pump leaked ever since I put it on last fall. I thought it may have been just the gasket leaking or something, but no, the "low mile" oem pump that I bought was leaking through the bottom weep hole, what a rip.

Good thing I bought this stuff though

Took out the baffles again in the valve cover so there would be no chance of sand getting stuck under there

So I got all of the items sent off to the powder coater, which included a hefty amount of brackets and such. So, I took a break with the timing side (sent off parts required to put it back together) and began other endeavors...like my ebc install. I sent off my extra wiring harness to Kevin Beeck to be tucked while I had the car down anyhow. So, I didn't want some tacky ole electronic boost controller wires cluttering up my engine bay. This was my solution...

Ran the wires through this hole

Interior came apart to rip out the old wiring harness

Well this looks like poop, reason for sending off the harness

^^^ As you can see in the pic above, the wiper motor wire isn't there anymore. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the wiper cowl area and ran the wire down through where the wiper hose used to come through since I don't have one. Had to depin the connector and run it through but it is pretty well hidden now. At a later point I will likely just drill a hole on the side and run the wire through the fender and into the cabin through that area.
This is where the wiper motor wires came out, passenger footwell

Got parts back from the coater, satin black

Put a few of them on

Ran a few more wires through that area

Moved my alarm horn as well since the wires were visible in the engine bay, ran them through the fender

 

[Dyesuperman]

January 26-February 16, 2013 – Manifold porting, TOB replacement, 6 bolt longblock acquired, car back running

I keep having terrible boost creep issues so I decided to port out my wastegate hole some

Yes, I did vacuum out the shavings before putting the wastegate back on. I vacuumed it out as I went too, but then after pulling out the towels on each side I made sure to get any other shavings out as well
Here you can see where the injector resistor box and power transistor are relocated to

And this is how it looked 2 weeks in...still

I was waiting on a missing part from the powder coater before I could put the new water pump on and the timing, so I decided I should just drop my transmission instead and replace my throw out bearing. Obviously, logical alternative.

Had to replace the knock sensor because I had the old one hardwired in because the connector broke

Had an extra one of these so swapped the nicer looking one into the car

Seems like the catch can between my pcv and intake is doing its job, that's a lot of fluid for about a month of driving

I have never had a hood latch for my car and couldn't figure out why I could never get one to bolt up. Well, I noticed I was missing this metal piece. So put it onto the cover in my car and bam, I finally have a hood latch release

The connector for my temp sensor was kind of broken, but some two part epoxy fixed that right up

The saturn alternator swap caused me to have a slightly different alternator tensioner setup, so I always had to grind down a bolt some to get the bolt to fit in this slot

Fixed that problem, no more ground bolts. Just hollowed out the slot some

Picked up a spare 6 bolt motor and a box of parts for very very cheap, couldn't pass up the deal

Got the wiring harness back from Kevin, this thing is great!

And car is back together! Fuse box will be relocated very soon, Kevin just forgot to include the bracket when he shipped the harness. Oh, and I got my other parts back from the powder coater, obviously

 

[Dyesuperman]

And just a few from Import Alliance

 

[GofaST4life]

Love.

 

[jkimb01c]

this was a great read I love how your car looks reminds me of my gsx (RIP) great build congrats!!

 

[Bud92gsx]

Can you point me to more of your intake duct please?

 

[Dyesuperman]

Love.

this was a great read I love how your car looks reminds me of my gsx (RIP) great build congrats!!

Thank you!

Can you point me to more of your intake duct please?

What more would you like to see? I included pictures of everything I used for it and how I put it together, are you wanting installed pictures?

 

[Bud92gsx]

Yes installed pictures please.Im doing a same kinda deal, just want to see yours.

 

[Dyesuperman]

Yes installed pictures please.Im doing a same kinda deal, just want to see yours.

Lol that may be difficult to do at the moment, I had to take it out when I relocated my fuse box. It is very simple though, you can see how it looks in the pictures outside of the car, it looks just like that in the car. The side ducting on the bumper fit inside the intake ducting