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1G 1990 GST hard to get in gear

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dc320

10+ Year Contributor
89
5
Dec 22, 2011
CARMEL, New_York
Hello all,

I have seen a few posts related to this topic but none seem like my problem. I know the course of action i should take to fixing everything, I.E bleed replace slave and master.

My question to everyone is their opinion on what it would be so I can possibly eliminate the "wild goose chase".
So I got the car not running, sat for a few years and this year Id had enough and had it fixed, Thats a story for another time. So when i had the no start issue fixed i also had a new slave and master installed. When i had the car the clutch pedal was stiff solid and would not press the slightest, one day i guess i got a little over aggravated and pushed harder and it POPPED and was then able to move. SO we changed out the slave and master.

Just got the car registered and when i go to drive, going into ANY gear at a stop with the car on is almost impossible unless you pump the clutch a few times or do it while off. When driving sometimes its the smoothest shift in the world or the other times it wants to fight me into gear, so i have to pump the clutch a few times before it will allow me to shift. It is mostly 1, 2, 3, and occasionally 4 going into 5th hasn't given me any troubles.

I have bleed the clutch twice now and a buddy came over today and did it again. Still same issue.[DOUBLEPOST=1408386768][/DOUBLEPOST]Also i know there is a slave for AWD and FWD, are there differences with the 2 rods they have? maybe AWD is shorter and thats what was installed and its not allowing the clutch to engage all the way?
 
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Still sounds like air is gettin into the system. Check all connections for tightness and check line for cracks. Is the new master and slave oem or parts store? If not oem they could be bad from the box or already broke. Need to order new oem master and slave and I recommend a new ss braided line from master to slave.
 
Changed tranny fluid? Drain it and drop in some Redline MT-90

You might have bent the shift fork in the tranny if you really had to put pressure on it.

Look under neath where the end of the shift fork comes out of the bell housing. It should be in the middle of the travel. If it's leaning toward the front of the motor, the shift fork could be bent or worn bad.

Either way, I bet you need to drop the tranny to inspect the situation and possible replacement.
 
Im thinking i bent the fork, or the slave and or master was bad.

When my buddy bleed it today there was no air coming out and we did it a few times, let fluid drop to about 40% then refilled it.

Def was thinking of doing tranny fluid soon as well.

Also if it helps at all. Here is a video of me driving it yesterday, in the video its shifting no problem.

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[DOUBLEPOST=1408390324][/DOUBLEPOST]Is this line good?

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20437&cat=612&page=1
 
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Boost gauge doesn't work? Sounds good though .....

K, how I bleed any hydraulic assembly (both brake and clutch) is: fill the master with fluid.
Open up the spit valve on the slave and let the old fluid run out until the clear comes on through.
I close the spit valve. I refill the master again.
I ask the wife to get on the clutch pedal and pump it up until pressure is felt and then hold the foot on the pedal to retain the pressure.
I tell her when the clutch pedal suddenly hits the floor when I open up the spit valve, NOT to let up on the pedal. If she does lift up on the pedal, I have to do the beginning procedure all over again.
After pedal collapses, I close the spit valve.
Then, I tell her again to pump up the pedal until pressure is felt and hold it. I open the spit and pedal collapses and she holds it until I close the spit valve.
I repeat this process two more times.
This time, we've got pressure in the system and all is good.

Easy as eating pie.

-DSM
 
gauge works, im just hardly on the gas :p LOL.

Exactly how i did it the other day, nothing but clearish liquid coming out now, just clean fluid.[DOUBLEPOST=1408497561][/DOUBLEPOST]http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=17386

anyone ever try this?[DOUBLEPOST=1408498762][/DOUBLEPOST]Okay so i have narrowed down a possibility, i have an AWD slave in a FWD.

AFter looking at these 2 slaves on extremePSI, i thought " when i bleed the clutch, the inlet was next to the bleeder, like this
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I looked at the FWD and it has the inlet on the opposite side like this
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Not sure if its the problem, but a good place to start
 
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Really you can use either slave. They both bolt up and work the same only difference is the where that plug is(cant think of name or it right now). When bleeding clutch, you are not suppose to pump the pedal up.
 
Oh "pooh!" ... I've been pumping pedals up like that for years and that practice has always worked for the lot of us veteran garage mechanics.

I just wonder if the OP just have either a bad clutch fork that is worn, or the clutch shaft out of the master cylinder needs to be adjusted.

But usually, it is a safe practice to replace both master and slave since, if only one is replaced, the other is now the weakest link in the 'chain of operation.'
 
What brand of master cylinder did you use? Some of the part stores have one with an incorrect piston in them. The seal on the piston is in the wrong location and they don't move enough fluid to the slave. Also there is the possibility that the pressure plate was seized somehow and you broke it by forcing the clutch pedal down. Also i agree, the pump and bleed works just fine to bleed a clutch. You can also once you get most of the air out push the slave piston in while cracking the bleeder valve open than close it when you get the piston pushed in. When you release the piston the spring inside will push it back out which will pull fluid and any air from the lines to the slave.
 
Oh "pooh!" ... I've been pumping pedals up like that for years and that practice has always worked for the lot of us veteran garage mechanics.

I just wonder if the OP just have either a bad clutch fork that is worn, or the clutch shaft out of the master cylinder needs to be adjusted.

But usually, it is a safe practice to replace both master and slave since, if only one is replaced, the other is now the weakest link in the 'chain of operation.'

If you see a few comments up, i did "snap" something into working order once. Could have def bent the fork, its not ruled out in my head of options yet. I did not do the master, could be some cheap f***ing hunk of shit, the guy charge 50 bucks for it and 40 for the job. Kinda cheap in my head, but after 5 years of sitting, once he picked it up, i just wanted my car running and brought to me so didnt question it. Doesnt look like slave is new, he had an awd talon so could have def used a newish used slave he had.

What brand of master cylinder did you use? Some of the part stores have one with an incorrect piston in them. The seal on the piston is in the wrong location and they don't move enough fluid to the slave. Also there is the possibility that the pressure plate was seized somehow and you broke it by forcing the clutch pedal down. Also i agree, the pump and bleed works just fine to bleed a clutch. You can also once you get most of the air out push the slave piston in while cracking the bleeder valve open than close it when you get the piston pushed in. When you release the piston the spring inside will push it back out which will pull fluid and any air from the lines to the slave.


I did not do the master, could be some pice of shit like i said in the other comment. Does feel like the pedal is very loose as well, so maybe its not pushing enough pressure, causing the pedal to not be stiff and the clutch not fully disengage.
 
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