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16G Wastegate set ups

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jgio213

Proven Member
119
70
Sep 27, 2017
Massachusetts
On the new build I'm going to be running a 16g turbo with an OEM actuated waste gate. I'm probably going to use this for the first thousand or so miles while the engine is breaking in. Curious what the max boost is you can run on a OEM wastegate 16g. I'm hoping to eventually switch to a tial 38mm, my question is when i go that route, how have you guys set them, I'd love to see some pictures, what springs are you using? Manifold setups? How much boost etc? Will I have to remove or weld the internal flapper contraption? Thanks for any info, looking forward to seeing some set ups, thanks guys.
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/looking-for-a-strong-internal-wastegate-actuator.319128/


That worked really well for me before I swapped to a tial F38

OEM unit was no good for maxing it out for a few reasons

Success with the OEM unit depends on how much boost you plan to run and how much of a spike your fuel system can support

using a big blue and a small blue in my F38 now which is mounted to a JM Fab O2 housing recirc unit


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This is the only pic I can find right now that illustrates its location. It fits with the Mishimoto 2 row radiator and their fan/shroud set. I did have to notch out the plastic grill of the driver side fan a bit, but I was happy with the end result. I searched for info on the fitment with this type of setup quite a bit and couldnt find anything conclusive........so I hope this helps some. I will try to get some better pics too.
 
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Very clean set up man, looks great. I would of never thought to try a wastegate off a different turbo. I am hoping to max it out eventually and hit the 20 mark, on a oem O2 housing and FP manifold. I really don't know much about running external wastegates so I was hoping to find something close to OEM since im relatively familiar with those.
 
Of course you can cheat with a manual boost controller but they only allow close to double your WG spring pressure. Cheaper than a new WG though. Just throwin that out there. More prone to spikes too.
 
whatever spring you have is the LOWEST you can go.

Example, 18lb spring will be 18psi minimum. This 18 can be doubled with a boost controller, but cannot be lowered. So with an 18 lb spring and a MBC, you could theretically hit anywhere between 18 and 36
 
A cheaper route that I’ve used was longer bolts and some washers to shim the oem waste-gate actuator a bit to add some preload. Eventually I came up with this which worked much better
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I added a spring. Wired up between the flapper arm and secured up around where the actuator bolts down. Made my base pressure 17psi and have ran as much as 30 tapering to 24ish psi by redline.
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/looking-for-a-strong-internal-wastegate-actuator.319128/


That worked really well for me before I swapped to a tial F38

OEM unit was no good for maxing it out for a few reasons

Success with the OEM unit depends on how much boost you plan to run and how much of a spike your fuel system can support

using a big blue and a small blue in my F38 now which is mounted to a JM Fab O2 housing recirc unit


You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is the only pic I can find right now that illustrates its location. It fits with the Mishimoto 2 row radiator and their fan/shroud set. I did have to notch out the plastic grill of the driver side fan a bit, but I was happy with the end result. I searched for info on the fitment with this type of setup quite a bit and couldnt find anything conclusive........so I hope this helps some. I will try to get some better pics too.

Such a clean set up!! and you have ac too :thumb:. Really nice!!
 
Kinugawa original style WG but holds 23#'s I think. It ran my son's ChinaBay turbo and did a great job if you are looking at staying internal. Helped him run with 12.5 cars.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.aliexpress.com/item/32698145117.html
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I run their IWG too. Works fine but I did have to trim the rod about an inch to make it fit. If I remember correctly, it was $80-100. If you plan on going external, I'd save the money and just run the stock wg for now.
 
Yeah mine was free, so.....Good point too!
 
Well at some point I bet I bought it, then it went to the kids car, then the car got totaled. Gonna put it on the 6/4 auto car. It was on a China 16g in a 97 Spyder auto car and it came to life, especially on E!
 
Yea nothing wrong with saving some money, thats why i was considering just running the one off the 14b for now, but its old and beat up looking and a lot of time and money has already gone into this thing, I think the kinugawa is the cheapest and easiest option to hold me over till I'm ready to go external.
 
Typically, due to turbine restriction, flapper size, porting, and flapper lever type a certain actuator will bottom-out a few psi below the rated minimum of the spring. So an 18psi spring will usually make 15-16psi as a baseline, but this varies greatly by the car.

On the flipside, turbine restriction and compressor efficiency will also effect the max holding power of the actuator as well. An 18psi actuator isn't going to make 36psi coupled with a manual boost controller on a 14B with a 6cm2 housing just because the turbo itself won't let it happen. You'll start to get spikes and drops just before you know the actuator or turbo is giving you all it can handle which is probably making tuning and keeping a stable fuel pressure a nightmare, so it's best to keep your "max" at the highest stable pressure you can run. An Evo III 16G can definitely sustain 28-30psi at the onset of boost and 25-26psi the entire way to redline with a strong enough actuator.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/evo3-16g-dyno-results.365759/page-2#post-152166898
 
Just a tip. When you install it, make sure the orientation of the top hat is in the direction you want the port to be before bolting it on. I had to turn mine around. Also want to set preload before hooking onto flapper.
 
Thought we where talking about an external WG and was using a theoretical example to explain choosing a spring for external.....my bad.....didnt realize Tial even made an internal actuator.......just checked the link in post #6.

Nice lookin unit, wonder how good they work.....cant be much better than the holset actuator mounted to the tdo5 bracket right? I only used my holset/tdo5 piece for a few weeks before going external, but it helped bigtime over the oem actuator. The only reason I went external really was because I already had the parts from the past.
 
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