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16G requirements/Questions

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Battle_Born

Battle_Born

Probationary Member
21
2
Aug 23, 2014
Reno, Nevada
I just ordered a evo 3 16G MHI turbo(On a 2G GST, I did order the mounting kit) because my stock turbo bit the dust, I searched the forums and it seems everyone is asking questions for a lot more power than I will be running( I am on quite the low budget). I have no other mods done to the car. I do have a crappy Blitz BOV that does not recirculate, Essentially what I am looking to get out of this car is a good DD with a bit if power but nothing that will make it super unreliable. I was thinking 15-16 pounds of boost would be a noticeable upgrade and I am curious all supporting mods I would need to do so. What is more important to upgrade the injectors or fuel pump? What BOV should I run? Is this even possible with the stock inter-cooler? Are there any major challenges I should be aware of when I install this?
 
Did you also get the passenger side facing J pipe? You'll need that to hook to the stock intercooler. I think if you're on a budget, you could rewire your fuel pump and run it as is with the injectors you have until you get enough money to upgrade your ECU and fuel system. I'd drop it right in there and run stock boost. Do look into getting the recirculation fitting for the BOV when you can. It's not a good idea to run it like that if there's no way to compensate for it.

I'd also get new turbo bolts. They tend to get brittle and snap on you from getting heat cycled so much. ARP's are only 30 dollars even so I'd recommend it.
 
BMX gave some good advice above about recirculating the BOV back the way it was intended to be. Injectors and a 255 pump would be ideal just keep in mind you will need a way to tune for it. Rewiring the stock pump could get you by for now as long as you keep the boost down at 15psi. You're not going to see the true potential of this turbo on this setup though. Ideally these turbos work great with a better flowing exhuast manifold, such as a Evo3, full turbo back exhaust, and a small front mount with supporting fuel. On the stock IC you may run into the ECU retarding timing on you after extended boosting due to intake temperatures rising rapidly so i wouldn't do any endurance events, but a few pulls at the strip should be fine assuming you're not having fuel issues. This would be a good time to insure all maintenance is done; i.e fuel filter, spark plugs, injection cleaner (lucas tune up in a bottle, stay away from stp).

As far as installation one thing to ouch out for is a cracked turbo manifold and I would pull the turbo shield off ASAP and inspect both above and underneath it. Last thing you want to do is do all this work and have a hairline crack turn into a real problem down the road. You're going to need new crush washers for the turbo oil entry line and coolant entry and exit lines as they are a one time torque down deal. A new gasket for the oil return line to the oil pan since it will most likely break apart when you remove the turbo and I would suggest picking up a nice metal gasket for in between the turbo/manifold. Goodluck!
 
Replace the uncirculated bypass valve with a 1g with adapter (so you can recirculate) and rewire the fuel pump for now. bmxfelon420 is correct in saying you need to figure out what you will do with the change in compressor outlet. I would not consider even turning the boost above stock until you:

DSMLink or some other method of tuning. By your questions, I would suggest DSMLink.
Aftermarket boost gauge
A/F wideband
At least a Walbro 190LPH pump (rewired) If your goal is 15-16psi
550cc fuel injectors or larger
upgraded SMIC or smaller FMIC


For install, this guide should help. It is a little outdated for install "kits", but very helpful.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/2G-16G.html

As for the suggestion about turbo bolts, OEM is the way to go. I would NOT suggest ARP for this particular fastener on the turbo to manifold.
 
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I have a 16g turbo as well. I would look into the stock 1g bov. They are better than the 2g stock and are really reliable. You will be fine with stock injectors. I would get a 190lph fuel pump. You could look into upgrading your intercooler pipes. Punishment racing sells and good set at a good price and comes with bov.
 
I agree with the above posters except I wouldnt bother getting a 1g blow off valve if you can find the recirculate fitting for your Blitz online. Last I checked they were around 20 dollars or so. As long as it's working properly, i'd say that would be the cheapest/easiest route as most 1G valves start at around 30 dollars and go up from there. I got one on Ebay a few years ago for 35 shipped, and then bought an OEM 1g pipe/flange for 20, and welded that to a piece of 2.5" exhaust tubing to integrate it into the stock upper piping. At the time, the drop in 1G adapters werent as readily available as they are now. Now, you can get an adapter to drop that into the stock upper hole.

Oh, another tip if you're on a real budget: Radiator hoses make good substitutes for couplers/elbows for intake piping if you need one right away. I ran a 90 degree radiator hose elbow for over a year with no issues, and a straight piece of hose as well with no problem. The best that I could find was the reinforced NAPA hose.
 
Unlike most people here, i'd not immediately shun one of those. What i'd recommend for something like that is to send it out to be professionally balanced before running it. But, in agreeance in what others have said above a used MHI is your best bet. I've seen them go for around 300 or less in good working condition. The only difference is that unlike with that kit, you'd need to purchase the install kit seperately. Extreme PSI sells the kit you would need in that case.
 
I am definitely hoping I can find a MHI, and in the case I cannot I will still get the CXracing one and look into getting it balanced (How much does that run usually?) I have researched and know the risks, quite a few people in town are running them without problems and I like to gamble, so if I get screwed over hey I get screwed over i'll just be waiting until next check haha. Thank you guys for all the advice, I will continue posting the install and everything once I finalize either order on which turbo I can find. (This is a dumb question)So let's say everything works out and I run just the 9-10 pounds of boost I will not feel any difference from my stock turbo correct? Or will I have more lag?
 
Battle_Born said:
I am definitely hoping I can find a MHI, and in the case I cannot I will still get the CXracing one and look into getting it balanced (How much does that run usually?) I have researched and know the risks, quite a few people in town are running them without problems and I like to gamble, so if I get screwed over hey I get screwed over i'll just be waiting until next check haha. Thank you guys for all the advice, I will continue posting the install and everything once I finalize either order on which turbo I can find. (This is a dumb question)So let's say everything works out and I run just the 9-10 pounds of boost I will not feel any difference from my stock turbo correct? Or will I have more lag?
Click to expand...

It will have a bit more lag, and possibly a bit more power because your boost wont taper off at the top end of the powerband. From what checking around I did, there was a place a couple states away from me that did the balancing for 50 dollars. Id check to see if there's anywhere local to you, or close that can match that so you dont have to pay as much shipping costs. I think if it was balanced and checked over by a professional shop to make sure there arent any issues before you run it, you'll be fine.

Also I'd look into running a better oil, preferably one of the ones highlighted in this document: store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/news/Forced%20Performance%20Recommendations%20for%20Motor%20Oil.pdf

And for what it's worth, I personally run a used MHI big 16g that came off of a JDM engine a friend ordered. I did nothing to it and it boosts fine. I also had a friend who ran an XSpower 16g for about 12k miles with no issue. The shaft did break when they tried to disassemble it for rebuilding though.
 
 
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