well the other day coming home from work my alt belt broke... i tried getting it home and i made it... the car did over heat... today i put new radiator hoses and replaced the belt.... car runs fine and no overheating but i noticed my oil pressure gauge (on the cluster)is no longer functioning...
Clean.... NICE!:thumb:i used to have one on the passenger A pillar .... till i hit a crater (nyc pot hole) and it fell onto this girls head i had in the car with me ... i had to laugh...LOL:D
well after installing my indiglo gauges i noticed that the fuel needle is stuck in the same position... i filled up my gas tank and it still didnt move... so i went back in to cut away some of the plastic usually it prevents the needle from moving freely but still no luck and the needle seems to...
for that piece of crap i cant believe there are ppl out selling that piece of ish for that money buy your self a cold air intake or an exhaust system youll def feel a hp/tq difference then
i have a 98 gst and i wanted to originally do a 6bolt hx35 build but i am expecting twins any day now so that expensive build has to hold off but i still want to upgrade my 7 bolt block... i was thinking of doing the evo3 turbo setup with manifold and o2 apexi n1 exhaust system full fuel upgrade...
make sure the maintenance is up to date... you'll spend 1500 now but thousands down the line... dsm's arent the most reliable cars especially if you want to have it as a daily driver
im having the same problems on my strut towers... i was told that the rust areas need to be cut out and sheet metal welded in if its not cut out the rust will just continue to spread
if money is an issue and you cannot afford dsmlinkget some used 680cc(max) injectors off the classifieds ... a wally fp afpr filter to rail kit and an afc neo or safc an mbc a boost gauge all can be found through the classifiedsall this can be done for as much as dsmlink with an...
sorry to say MOST but not every ebay evo3 turbo's seems to fail... they are made of cheaper material and cannot perform no where near as the MHI evo3 turbos. i would say... if its not boost leak its the turbo... its probably a knockoff going bad already... keep us informed... and try to go...
Hey everyone ok well one day im working on my car replacing the alternator i take out the power steering assembly and then when i reinstall everything i have this weird leak coming from the bolt pictured below..... it is highlighted by the white arrow...the leak comes out through this...
hey guys im considering buying the apexi n1 downpipe and catback from extreme... but i also read that i should minus the cat with a high flow/test pipe... which one should i get?
but becareful i drove it for a long time as it leaked onto everything.. eventually the balance shaft belt went.. the front casing was only a month old that went.. and the timing belt was drenched in oil...
if you look at my old posts i had like a stage 5 oil leak... i found that it was my valve cover... not only was it cracked the orings were done and the valve cover gasket was some cheap rv spray.... try looking at those gaskets and see if they are still good.. i picked up a set of orings and a...
yeah its beginning to get pretty loud ... before i would just feel it.. now i can hear it... and the power steering pulley assembly is shaking and making a ticking now.... so i should just get the balance shaft eliminator kit?
only when its revved over 3k rpm even in neutral i feel it.. its a very noticable change in vibration... the passenger doesnt quite notice it but i (drive) can feel it vibrating throughout the pedals... before there was barely any vibration on them
i was driving yesterday... in 2nd gear and i started feeling a strange vibration on the foot pedals at 3000 rpm ... then when i rev higher than 3000 i feel it more.... it happens in every gear and just out of no where... i can feel it mainly on the pedals the steering wheel and shifter... its...
yeah when i bought my car i had bubbly spots on my left strut tower... after 3 months in it turned into a hole the size of my fist and i can see straight through to the shock... body shop guy quoted me at 250 to fix it... shoulda done it before it got that bad
i def believe the rings are bad because i feel a significant loss in power at times... when those times occur i always see white smoke coming from my exhaust... my oil pressure flucuates throughout the day and this whole mess is beginning to get on my last nerves... im going to eventually swap...
i think both are pretty blown... the motor has about 170k ... i was thinking about swapping in the 6bolt short block and keeping the 2g head... what do you think? oh and getting either a MHI EVO3 turbo or 50 trim....
im thinking of picking up a 6bolt from a yard up in PA need it taken to get machine work done... anyone can recommend a good machine shop closest to NYC.... my 7bolt is leaking massive oil... approx. 5 quarts a week.... just replaced the front casing.. smoking like a chimney a thick white smoke...
im thinking of picking up a 6bolt from a yard up in PA need it taken to get machine work done... anyone can recommend a good machine shop closest to NYC.... my 7bolt is leaking massive oil... approx. 5 quarts a week.... just replaced the front casing.. have no idea where its coming from...
which is the bleeder valve? does it look like a plug/nipple sticking out of the caliper? and how would i open it? the car should be off while the other person is pressing on the brake?
one of my friends told me i had to pump the brake before i turned the car on and i didnt do that.... i have major air in my lines... i unbolted the brake line and let it drip out a bit checking the brake fluid level.... i added more once i was done.... i pumped the brake pedal and it sounded...
hey guys well i just finished changing my brake pads... i bled the brake lines and i started the car...OH SNAP i didnt pump the brake before i started the car :banghead: now when i started driving the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and i have to pump the brake 3 or 4 times before it...
hey guys well i just finished changing my brake pads... i bled the brake lines and i started the car...OH SNAP i didnt pump the brake before i started the car :banghead: now when i started driving the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and i have to pump the brake 3 or 4 times before it...
i just replaced my alternator water pump and front casing and now all of a sudden my belt(s) are squealing like no tomorrow... its so annoying i have no idea why either... the belts are all brand new
Hey everyone, well im kinda going back and forth on whether i should pick up a jdm 6bolt or build one i can get from a junk yard ie car-part.com... im looking at the yard direction because i've found a used cylinder head and block altogether 400-600... now of course i have no idea what condition...
quick question.... i found a 1992 eagle talon 6bolt block and cylinder head for cheap at a local junk yard... im going to rebuild this motor and swap out my 7bolt when it finally dies on me (end nearing soon) how much does it cost at a machine shop to have the block decked surfaced hone all the...
you can also call them and ask their customer service..... i have dealt with them on many occassions and they definitely can help you out finding the right pipe...
i strongly suggest looking up transmission rebuild from TRE/Jacks/SHep they perform work for most of the dsm community here... i have a TRE stage 2 on my ride and it shifts like butta even under WOT
i believe you have a solid build on your hands.... you def need to have at least 1000cc+ injectors... how about any transmission work besides the clutch? with all that power hitting the wheels you'll also want to consider upgrading your transfer case too
+1 on the shift fork broken... happen to me once, tried to drive it that way ended up breaking up the trannsy so bad it wasnt even worth rebuilding.... i currently have a TRE trans on my car give them a shout
extremepsi has great deals on engine internals and such... you should really give them a call and tell them what you wanna do and they'll hook you up... same as slowboy racing