Anyone know what the name of this component located inside of the 2g AC evaporator case is? It looks like some kind of relay to me.. Trying to get my ac working again and a piece of the white block was cracked off. Wondering if jb weld will do the trick lol.. If someone has a wiring diagram with...
Cool build Miguel. Keep us posted on here and YouTube!Have you seen this by the way? I think it's in Russian but you can turn on the subtitles and understand 80 percent of it. He did an Evo 9 swap, with an Evo 6 transfercase, an Evo 7 driveshaft, and a rear end from a "Legum"? I think that's...
Up for sale is a super clean 4G63 2G head. I decided to stick with my 1g head instead. $265 obo. Comes with everything you see pictured. Does not come with cams or valves. For more photos check out my google photos link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ywPLW48h5H4nnz6s9 Feel free to PM me here or text...
Hmm, not sure if its ever read higher than 170.. I had a harbor freight one but it crapped out on me. so I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006V2BRS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, prior to installing the turbo I did a cold leakdown test and some air was coming from the oil cap so I took the valve cover off and it seemed to be coming from the crankcase, but it was hard to tell exactly. Pretty sure it wasn't from the valves seats though.When I did the test last...
While doing some street tuning near where I live, a T-fitting for my turbo oil feed/oil pressure gauge cracked. The oil dummy light turned on so I drove it home (stupid move I know, but I was only a few blocks away). Sent my 68hta to Justin after finding some in and out shaft play. His findings...
Going to go with that 2.799" just to preserve the life of my alternator. Attaching a graph of the CS130D performance curve, and a link to more info incase anyone else needs it in the future.http://oljeep.com/AltTheory17/AlternatorTheoryVersion17R1.htm
Twicks, what is your idle, and rev limit at with that 2.55" pulley?Jery, what is your idle set at for that 3 in Kiggly? Any idle issues?The reason I ask is I'm doing some calculations..(According to Jegs website)
Delco SC130 105 Alternators Specs are:
80A @ 2,400 RPM @ 13.2 VDC @ 77F...
Yep, clamped my doors closed so I could get in and out and latched my hatch. Removing the fuses above I was about to get to 0 amps of drain but can't figure out why the horn and headlamp circuits are drawing 60mA. Any other ideas?
My battery dies in less than 7 days give or take so I put my meter in series to the battery to see the current draw and started pulling fuses. Narrowed it down to the list below. Even removed all of the fuses, and measured the current drains independently of the other parasitic circuits intact...
Having the same issue with my Saturn alternator (stock pulley) so I'm bumping this post. Attached is an EvoScan log. Dropping down to 11.5 volts at around 6.8 K RPM. All the lights in the cabin dim as I'm doing a pull.
Thanks for the advice Kchaazz! Beats having to tear apart the tranny again. :D Now to find someone willing to do the work. Probably a good thing the first guy didn't take the job since I didn't have the transfercase with me.
Just finished rebuilding my transmission, and the chunk circled in red broke off. Was wondering how important this bolt hole is. Has anyone stripped this hole, and run their car? Took it to a local welder but he recommended that I completely disassemble everything, and bring back just the bell...
How many detent balls are there in the viscous coupler? I accidentally dropped mine while pressing out the shaft and was able to only find one ball. Was not sure because the manual says "ball" on one page, and "balls" on another.. and there are two holes for balls to fit into.
You're right the oscilloscope does not lie. Would you please post up some evidence supporting your claim? The oscilloscope pictures from RRE seem to prove the opposite of what you are stating. You never responded to my post where the graph is traced out showing the signals pulses are the same...
Kevin,Thanks for the response. When using the 1g cas with your sensor, does one need to set base timing with a timing light before installing the kiggly unit? Or can we just wire it up and go?
If you look Here: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm at the 3rd bullet under "The Bad" RRE states the following:Reported problems range from none, to annoying, so be aware. At the time of this writing the most common glitch is an increase in CEL's. The most likely CEL to occur...
Bastard, can you tell me if I'm reading this incorrectly then. I'm not trying to start a heated argument, and I just want to figure this out.. From what I am understanding, the top graph on that webpage is showing that the #1 injector signal pulse occurs every 6.4 boxes in time. To me, #1 looks...
Bastard, I believe you might be miss understanding what RRE is depicting by posting those two graphs. The graph on the bottom is showing that the wave form is different for the 95-96 Eclipse because of the cam signal for those years are inverted. This is fixed by switching the injector trigger...
I could be reading them wrong, but according to that link you post from RRE it looks like the wave-forms would line up fine though? Where are you getting this information Bastard?
Interesting... Looking at the first graph, it seems like the cam signal should sequence up with the injector #1 trigger signal each time unless you have a 95-96 Eclipse. If that is the case, then the signal would be reversed? I could be wrong.. But then that kind of leads me back to my original...
bastarddsm, can you give an example or explain why the 1g cam signal would be inaccurate a 2g? Switching to a 2g cam sensor would be a lot of work for me at this point, but I will if I have to..
Sorry, I should have been more clear. The wiring on my diagram is slightly different than the one from post #5 from Snaps of that thread.The difference on my setup on my setup is I decided to leave the crank sensor plug alone, and install it directly to the Kiggly sensor (plug and play)...
Bump? I wired it up like this over the weekend. If anyone has any ideas please feel free to chime in. Otherwise I will update this thread when the time comes for others..LOL
Does anyone know if my diagram below will work? My car is a 1997 2g GSX, and I am trying to install my Kiggly crank position sensor. What makes things complicated is I have a 1g 6 bolt (head and block). I've searched other threads but everyone basically says its easier to just install the 1g...
Shouldn't need a translator for speed density with ECUFlash / Evoscan either.. Just a map sensor. (The Omnipower 4 bar map sensor for example.)Another advantage with ECUFlash / Evoscan is that it is open source so you have the huge evom community that will make updates, and patches that will...
Sorry to revive a dead thread. I am about to do this exact set up. 1g CAS + Kiggly's 6-bolt crank sensor. I also should mention that I plan on installing an Evo 8 ECU, and that I already have my timing belt installed. My question is, would I still need to set up base ignition timing with a...
Thanks guys. I watch Jafro's videos religiously actually. I will probably try to do some light port/polishing myself. boost97gst is right about the thicker hg creating more knock. I believe the correct remedy is to enlarge the fly cuts on the pistons instead for valve clearance. I'm leaning...
Thanks for the response! I forgot to mention that the Craigslist G6K head passes the flatness test, so it won't need to be resurfaced again unless I decide to go with a MLS gasket. Not sure what the roughness average is but it just doesn't look smooth enough.
My GSX overheated over 2 years ago, and it was so bad that the plug wires melted to the head. Had to torch it up, and dig like hell with some pliers just to get all the hardened melted plastic out. Since then I've been hoarding parts, and picked up another head off Craigslist. I wanted to seek...