I cannot repair the threads, it snapped off right where the threads start on the bolt. Going to try drilling er out, ill update in a bit.

it broke so that all of the thread is stuck in the frame. I guess we can try and drill it out. Or make the hole bigger, use a larger bolt and nut on top?

The front cross member that holds the motor mount decided that it would break off one of the 2 bolts holding it onto the front frame. It is now stuck part way up in the threads and doesn't want to come out... Can I run just 1 bolt instead of 2 on this piece?

It's hard to tell what is toast but he whole engine flexes enough that 2 things hit each other and make a clunk, so I parked the car till I can order some mounts

1995-1999 ECLIPSE TALON RED POLYTHANE ENGINE MOTOR MOUNT INSERTS 96 97 98 | eBaydo those look like the right ones? 96 tsi awd

I see kits on eBay but I'm not sure what exactly they replace. It's hard to tell which mounts on my car are causing the issue as well

Got my friend to look at my car and it seems like one or all of the mounts are toast... I see kits selling the "inserts" do these ones just need the oem rubber scraped out?If anyone has any links as for what's recommended that would be appreciated. Looking for something lower in price too.

How much movement should there be? My driver side mount looks like its squished towards the back of the car direction

Just recently when I am driving and tap the gas and let off I hear a clunk sound, we tested it in the driveway and the engine is moving forward and back ALOT more than I think is good... sounds like it goes so far something is tapping on another piece and making the sound. Is this usually just...

The thing is it says im boosting 13 psi on the gauge but no power at all and I can hear it popping. I used to run 20 psi and it did the same thing so I lowered it.

On my 96 tsi awd I have a big 28 with 550 cc injectors and all supporting mods etc. I am tuned with safc. When I push on the gas a bit I can hear the turbo spooling and it shows its building boost but hardly moving at all for acceleration, if I floor it you can hear it sounding kind of like the...

What does it do if timing is off?the turbo is a big t28 I ran 20 psi for 2 years no issues

I had a mbc that started leaking so I took it out and connected the line just as if the mbc wasnt there... It gets to only 13 psi max and nothing feels wrong. Is it ok to run it like this?Also I got my timing belt done and it has been running fine, but somtimes during idle it sounds like I...

I woulda done the alternator myself if it wasn't so coldI got the belt back on and tightened it back up, drove it around and it was good with no squeeling, then I drove it to work this morning and it came loose again!! Any suggestions? I was sure we tightened the 3 nuts properly and the slack...

The guy says to charge the battery and drive it over... It's a half hour drive and will probably overheat then.. What should I do

Oh so it is for sure the same belt? That makes sense then. I had the alternator replaced a few weeks ago and the guy did the belt too, must have done a bad job..

No I was almost home when it happened. Does the alternator belt connected to the power steering belt in some way? I'm confused as to why the power steering went at the same time

So I was going around a corner and I hear a noise, then all the sudden no power steering. Drove it home and the belt that right besides the alternator belt is really lose (like 3 inches off the track)NOW the battery light is on for some reason? What does this mean? I just got a new...

How can I disable my alarm? Can I just pull the fuse on it?The problem is when I open the door about 5 percent of the time it sets off the alarm for some reason, and I have to take a wrench and take off the battery terminal to disable it

Not sure what the big 3 is, my system is just 2 10 inch subs. pounds pretty good.

I solved all electrical issues by replacing the alternator :DNow onto the boost leak. The test it was coming out by the throttle body... Seems hard to fix

It happened earlier so I replaced the battery. If I charge the battery it's good for a while, then it won't start eventually.

Could a bad connection give this low voltage when running? Or is It either a hit or miss?

Seems to be leaking around the throttle body and some from boost controller area... Hard to pinpoint. I did a boost leak test.What should my battery voltage be with car running ?

My battery is only reading 13.2 when the car is running. I hear it should be 14.2 would this be the issue?

Heres the thing, when the cars not running the stereo still cuts out , and that wouldn't have anything to do with the alternator if the motor is off?

First off when I am driving my stereo just turns off whenever theres a bass hit on the song, it never used to do this. Also my headlights will flicker and my dashboard will dim... What could be the reason for this? (I just got a brand new battery)Second when I press more than 50 percent...

No the turbosmart is not supposed to leak at all. I'm just wondering if it's safe to run the way I set it up, until I can get it fixed. This was purely the problem.

I did a boost leak test and most of it was coming out of my manual boost controller on the 2 sides. How can I fix this? It is a turbosmart bc.Also I took the mbc out and directly attached the lines with a tee. Is this safe to run it like this? It only hits 12-13 psi max like this.

Is it worse running it on speed-4 as opposed to speed-1 ?

what kind of mileage does a 600whp car get?

the 2g tank is 60 liters and I will pull 500 kilometers out of it with spirited driving in the city. thats with 20 psi on a big t28 tuned with safc on 550s

Does anyone know how much using the a/c decreases fuel mileage? Right now with my awd tsi I'll get about 500km for 60 liters in the city. How much would this decrease using the a/c the whole tank?

Well it has an safc, so you could run 17 psi on that stock t25 and tune the air fuels

Mine seems to have fixed itself... Just driving with it on it eventually just learned to raise the rpm's.

SOme of my pipes do have the ribs on them. Here's the thing, sometimes I can floor it and it will pull to redline fine, other times theres a couple 'hiccups' during acceleration. Not sure if it's a boost leak or something else?

I have all hard pipes for my intercooler and I swapped all the connecters with sylicone couplers and tclamps. It was great for a few days, then sometimes when I punch it from 30-80 lets say, you can feel a couple 'surges' ( i don't know what to call it) then other times I can punch it and it's...

Ya that sounds like mine, the rpm just drops from 800 , I can have lights and stereo cranked with 2 subs no problems, but the a/c... I dunno

Thanks guys, was getting tired of the humm from the radio

I had my gauges wired to my cig lighter, but it makes the stereo humm constantly, looking for somewhere else that will shut off when the car is off.

Just do fuel pump, injectors, boost controller, boost gauge and run 17-18 psi and then see who wins :D

One of the belts screches pretty loud when I first turn it on when it's been sitting.

My car is a 2g, is that the same?

it idles great when the a/c isnt on

Well here's the thing, if im idling and turn on the a/c the rpm drops from 800 to 3 or 400

When I'm driving or sitting and turn on the a/c the whole car starts to shake. Why would this be?

Well I mean it wouldn't be a big enough leak to cause an idle like that.

I just replaced my master cylinder. I know it's not a boost leak since it pulls hard.

Could the rpm issue have to do with my battery connections? I was driving down the road and it would cut out every once in a while like the car died, then would instantly fire back up because the clutch is engaged. The stereo would also cut out too sometimes.Plus when I'm parking and turning...

How much weight can a talon pull?