Thanks for all the help and tips guys!:thumb:I had missread the DG setup initially and thought the shocks needed machining only with the Ground Control sleeves. :rolleyes:I already have all my stuff to build it with the Konis, so I will get the shocks grooved.... I'm so silly:confused...

I am running 2.25" springs because of the koni sleeves. I was not aware that they made an adapter to run 2.5". But 2.25" will do the job just fine.As far as machining the shocks, I did read up on the DG site. It did not find it clear if you needed to machine when running the Koni sleeves...

Sleeves are in, I just have to go pick them up.Since I will be running the koni sleeves, I have no machining to do on the shock body? Looking for someone to confirm this please^;)

I only found one helper spring style available for the 2.25 ID springs.

Picked up some more suspension goodies today! ;)Koni shocks:Hypercoil 8" 600 and 300 pound springs:Hypercoil helper springs:

Thanks. I think I will do that.

I`m going to try out 600F / 300R I'm having trouble finding stock for the sleeves, everything else is ordered.I removed all non suspension related posts:)I will post a build blog later.

Thanks a lot for the great advice guys.:thumb: I am ordering the springs today.

LOL... Good point, I grew up in Orleans but have been living in Gatineau for the past couple of years. I guesse you can tell where my heart is still at.:coy:Let's just say Capital region!

^ right on an other Ottawa DSM!:D

Great cars guy!!! Keep them coming...:hellyeah:

I replaced my rear bushings, they where pretty worn.Quick sanding and repainting of the upper control arms.

I would second this. I read up on this kit on the vendors forums and they look like good guys offering a quality product at a great price.I would check out DGR if I where you, buy it once buy it right!:)

I'm up in Canada, these parts are made buy a company in Niagara Falls, called RTM Racing.The setup from the picture cost 550CDN$Here is a link, I think he mentioned these might be his last set(they are built to DG's specs)...

Got my top plates with spherical bearings this week end. :D

msg sent.

KYB AGX + Gold line springs (going to DG setup in couple of weeks) :D

Thanks again UofACATS, great reading.:)I see what you are saying about the f/R spring weight ratio.The reason I want to run 500 in the front is that from what I have read, anything over 500 "you should revalve the shock"(konis). I am not at that point yet.I am a recreational driver...

Thanks for the input.:thumb:I think I will be running 500F / 350 rear. I only drive it about 3 times a week.If anyone else has recommendations, I appreciate any experience with similar setups.

Nobody here has a similar setup and run on the street?I was looking to get some feed back or pointers from more experienced lappers.:confused:

Post your Canadian DSM's here!!!:hellyeah:I will start this off, hopefully a lot of you guys follow!!!Let's see your beasts!:thumb:

^thanksAnybody running these setups and like or dislike certain spring rate combinations?

So I am building a setup same as the recommendations in Denis Grant's website. -Koni yellows -koni sleeves -spherical bearing top plates -Hyperco springsQuestion is: I run my car on the street and would like to go to a softer front spring (thinking 500 front / 400 rear)Does...

Here is my coolant overflow for a 2G

Epoxy + wet sanding.

Make sure both surfaces are dry and flat.A boost leak will cause the car to bog.

You need space fr expansion in your coolant system, there needs to be a place for the coolant to go when it gets hot and then to be sucked back in when the car cools down.no over flow is not good!!!

Hear is mine (had to do some rethreading)! AWSOME FEELING!!! :hellyeah:

Do you have a breather or way for you crank case pressure to escape?

Price wise the FP cast seems to be the way to go. I believe tubular still has a smoother more even flow. If you invest in a good tubular manifold!!! you get what you pay for a lot of the time.:)

You will need to bring it for an alignment after installing the kits. For the rear kit just bring it to them to install as they align the car, it's a set of shims, so they will need to add shims where needed to get your alignment bang on.What rear kit are you getting, and maybe I misse...

Are you running a stock BOV? Try having someone put there have infornt of the outlet, the noise might go away. Let me know if you get a chance to try it.;)

DAMN! Like really prematurely or just a little more than usual? I will be having my factory OEM GSX wheels with the factory OEM Eagle RS-A tires. The lowering kit made by Tokico comes with the shocks and springs. It is the HP series. I was told only get camber in the rear is that true? Will my...

Make sure your head surface and block deck are clean, very clean and flat. -Follow the torque sequence. -Use lube(molly).Keep it clean!!!

If you are lowering your car 1.75" you will need a camber kit to get the factory alignment specs for your vehicle.Some people use camber to help in corner better (this will use your tires prematurelaly, if you use your car as a daily driver)

Starter solenoid?

This depend how much bigger the gasket is? The gaskets are usually a tiny bit bigger than the ports, you could use this as a stencil to port you new manifold.If you are not sure, post a pic of the gasket and sufaces.

Acetone or alcool and a rag are great to clean off the head and block surfaces beefore head gasket install.

That is actually a nice kit. I was not aware that they made one for all under hood rad hoses. thanks for the link.:thumb:

I don't think the IAC would cause the car not to start though.

I'm pretty sure that you can get black braided line and fittings from Earls or Russell.

If this clicking noise happens when ou turn the key, it could be starter (relay). This noise would be synchronized with the turning of the ignition.

If it is a wistling sort of noise it could come from a vaccum source(any place with vaccum), a slight leak could cause a noise.

Do you mean braided lines? the only way to do this with real An fittings at both ends is to weld an aluminum male AN to your housng as well as your rad. This can get quite expensive.Samco make defferent color rad hoses for DSM's.

Something to also keep in mind is a big turbo will probably need bigger injectors and a way to control these.

You will probably need a camber kit in the font a well. Again this depends on how much negative camber you want to run.

Looking very clean!

You should try it out and try to save a head at least. I have done this to meany studds, broken in aluminum. They will break and you will probably have to weld more than one nut per broken studd, but try to play wth your heat(very hot usually worked better for me) and coling time before trying...

I don't believe they are compatible be cause of aded features in the 95 up ECU's. Best bet is to contact DSM link directly and check with them.

If you have access to a welder (mig), use a steel wire and try to weld nuts on the broken studds and extract them. Since the studd is steel and the head is aluminum, it will not stick.