Only reason to wait for a 4g is if its AWD. If the motor is in fact built as stated it can handle as much power as you probably want in a FWD street car.
Hey Justin, I have a Hahn S16G and it is due for a rebuild. But I have been thinking of upgrading to something a little bigger. Have looked at the S20G and HY35. With my current setup, I can not run anything above ~22psi. Whith that said do you have any suggestions on a good streetable turbo...
Wow, lol those prices are crazy. I paid 3500 for mine 8 years ago. You can get rs/gs's in great shape for 2000(95-96) or 3-4k(97-99). 99's are usually the only ones close to 4k. But for a turbo model that actually runs like its suppose to lol people want at least 6k most of the time around here.
If you read the post spending a few hundred bucks isn't that bad. And it helps move the whole power band not just at peak, so you do get a little pep and better gas millage. Not much of either but for $400 I'd take ~9wtq and a few mpgs and be a happy camper.And for the invested part...Have...
My advice would be to check tires with a UTQG rating that your looking for. If you can figure out about what kind of UTQG rating you want, you can shop locally and find "off brand" tires that will get you what you want at a cheaper price.
Sounds like your running lean for sure, hince the cutting out and backfiring. Just because a shop "tuned" it doesn't mean that couldn't be a problem. It sounds like you don't have a wideband O2, I would suggest getting one. And like asked above, are you overboosting?
Lots of crap information throughout this thread. But to help you out: Get a pace setter header like mentioned earlier. A real cai that puts the filter in the opening on the front bumper(like an Injen)/can get used. And the exhaust isn't going to do much, I would suggest just getting a better...
The portfueler system is actually a breeze to tune. However the place you take it is going to charge hourly or by the session and its usually not cheap. But IMO a tune is worth the money.
You have to tune the portfueler. It is a fuel management system, you still have to manage it. And unless you have the supporting mods to run 27 psi, I wouldn't suggest it. But the Portfueler is good for 27psi.
There is a screw you can adjust for your idle by the way. Look at where you hook your throttle line to the throttle body, and then look where it hits the adjuster screw.
Check both of them, but the one you need to replace(if bad) would be the temp sensor that sends the ecu the info. Look it up figure it out. The second or third post told you to take care of this issue first.
OP, this a easy free/cheap mod. The only thing is you have to be willing to live with the CEL on, unless you use a jumper. The jumper portion is floating around somewhere here or 2gnt.com(i forget where, possibly both) just search for it. As far as less gas efficient, I still get 30 mpg highway...
I agree(all retards). I say go with the cams and see how it goes. Nothing teaches lessons like first hand experience.Disclaimer: Not responsible for any ignorance on your part and the above statement is in no way saying that it is a good idea to try and put race cams in a street car.
Was there a bigger turbo on it at one point? And since its one of your boys, you could always go check it out and look for boost/vac leaks, and check out sensors to rundown the problem before you exchange money. But all in all a well taken care of DSM will be relaible if you make it that way. I...
Just line everything back up and you should be good to go. Setting timing really isn't a hard thing on the 420a. Line up your cams and crank all on TDC, then put the belt on, rotate a few times and make sure its still there.
I have the BC-2 kit as well.(Pics in my profile)...I hope you plan on doing the fitment yourself otherwise your going to be in deep with the body shop.The fitment was absolutly terrible. I had to cut the front and back bumpers numerous times to get the lines to match up. Most shops won't do...
I would suggest to build it with stronger internals, just don't drop your CR if your not going to run much boost. Because it might cost 2-300 more than a stock rebuild but you'll have stronger rods and pistons in there to take the boost.