First make sure the clutch master cylinder is adjusted correctly. There are videos of how to do that. If you are on a 1g then check your adjustment on the shifter cable.I would recommend the use of good gear oil (red line) and lastly it's sounding like possible synchro wear.
Also unless you are using a gm maf+translator on blow through mode or running speed density you'll want to recirculate your vented air back into the intake.
Just using a nut driver (or socket and extension) to get the bolts just snug using 2 fingers is all it takes. The above poster is right, you are sealed by a massive rubber gasket so a bent piece of metal on the outside won't affect anything other than the perfectness of your engine bay.The...
If that is actually hooded up to your turbo then there is quite a delay for boost control response. I understand why it's there but the halman in cabin controller does it properly.
You could pull the spark plugs and turn it over and check to see if the piston tops are wet. Quick verification that the injectors are in fact firing. Then you can go from there. Do you have a 1G or 2g CAS?Are the plug wires new?
You don't need to set it to TDC to re do the cas. Just unbolt it and rotate it half way around and re install. Just do the ignition timing with a light afterwards.
That's correct if they are stock cams. Aftermarket cams may have multiple dowel holes (like fidanza having Evo holes).I would get your timing to TDC with all marks lined up and put the cas alignment in proper.
It's just easier to have the timing marks aligned at the cams when doing the cas install. It does not need to be installed without the motor in time since the cas can only be installed correctly or 180* out.If it runs like complete crap or doesn't run then try rotating the cas arm and try...
Skip the LC-1, it's older, bulkier and more complicated to install. The MXTL is the newer version and is just as simple to install as the UEGO WB and calibration is as easy as unplugging the sensor from its harness.All calibrations regardless of manufacturer or branding should be performed in...
If you are looking for a quick turn around (within a month) go elsewhere. The work they do is iffy depending on what was done. Justin is very knowledgeable in his work and has worked on many dsms as well as Hondas.My biggest issue is the fact that when I went there he had too much work and...
True, but it's based on population density. Less people means greater chance for no emissions (perry county).I would suggest finding some speed shops that deal with imports and start befriending them unless you can put a cat converter on and swap out the dump tube all assuming you have...
It's not ridiculous, it's an attempt to reduce harmful pollutants. What is messed up is that all or non of the state should be required, not picking and choosing based off of population per county.
Pre muffler exhaust leaks won't pass visual emissions unless you find a shop to look past that as well as being cat less. They will still be required to hook up to the obd2 port for a connection testing the readiness state.Once you pass the following years you can qualify for emissions exempt...
For the welding, just call around. The inspection will be an issue. Why do you say it laughs at emissions?You can get an exemption but you have to have a current pa emissions sticker. I'm unsure of where you are relocating from.
All the picture links are broken on the page that I saw anyway. I would live to see all of them.I'm confused about the filing that was done by the valves on the dome..
Dee and Wes are correct. NO is an oxidizer so the only thing that it would affect is if you had an under-hood fire happening and the NO got to it.Pre-IC injection would reduce the efficiency of the IC which may allow you to get a small IC if needed. Pre turbo injection would be the better...
Drop it and get an alignment tool and get your clutch disk inspected on both sides. One day, I drove my car in the evening to get it inspected and the following day I couldn't get in gear. I finally had a spring pop out during that time of driving home.
Well then, you have electrical issues to work out then whether it's sensors or the wiring itself. The ECU may be pulling a boat load of timing which is why it's a pig right now.Go over everything, make sure the tps sensor is wired correctly and diagnose the obdII port for the connectivity...
Guess you'll find out once things start breaking if they are worn out. I advise you against aggressive driving while on shared roadways unless you like risking lives and receiving citations.Keep an ear on sounds from the transmission and have good brakes and tires for when you need to stop...
There is another factor that either you ate leaving out or most likely you are unaware of.It's possible the cam stick wasn't seated in properly (sitting at an angle) and when tightened caused a stress point.Did you finger tighten the caps and rotate the cam to ensure free movement?
Those lines are normal wear from the gears. As long as the teeth are all intact without chipping, cuts or groove and the belt isn't cracked or oil stained, it will be fine. If you want piece of mind then replace it with the rest of the timing parts.