i dont think the feed lines will fit. extremepsi.com has feed lines for like $40. i think the drain/return will though

xs-power.com has a full short route kits for 300 shipped. they are nice kits.

aren't stock turbo dsm trannys good for about 450 hp? if you can afford to get well over that, i'm sure about $1k won't kill ya to beef up the tranny some.it just depends on what the OP is looking for as far as HP goals. you can get just as much hp out of a 2.3 as you can in a 2.0...

i have a 95 talon sitting on some of the stock chromies. i'm gonna put them on the spyder though in a week or so.

i'd look at getting a new valve cover gasket while you're at it.

i know theres a bep .55 for sale in the classifieds

hey guys, thanks to the replies and info. i got the bearings in the end cables, replaced the shifter bushings under the console, and found that the bracket that holds the shifter cables that's bolted onto the tranny had no bolts in it. now there's absolutely NO play in it. it shifts like a...

so i got my skateboard bearings, and now i cant get them in the end cables. am i gonna have to go to a shop and have them pressed in? if not, whats the easiest way to get them in?

are all the skateboard bearings the same size? and if you put 2 bearings in each cable end, did you weld them together?

hafe manifolds are badass.

gsx-r coils? i've never heard of someone using bike coils on a car. what are the advantages?

ebay for your exhaust. run an open downpipe.

i thought about supercharging my 2.4 spyder but wasn't sure if they even made one that would fit a dsm. guess i know what to search for now!

angel eyes only look good on BMWs, so lets try to keep it that way.

what doesn't the xs-power kit include?how big of gains were you seeing? if it's only a few hp, it's probably not enough to tell a diff in performance. only reason i ask is because i see so many ic kits that are like...$800. i just never understood the appeal of spending that much money...

who? the OP?

just go with the 20g on FPs site. for 539 it's gonna be really hard to find a brand new one for that price. don't go spending almost a grand for a turbo to hit your 350hp.

just get your wheels powdercoated a good color, either gunmetal or bronze. if you were to just do flat black, pick up a spray can of it from an auto store. i just dont see the appeal of a black car, with black wheels. personally i like bronze on a black car. save up your money for some good...

id shoot for an AFPR with a gauge, maybe some 780cc injectors, def. need a wideband, and way to tune..you could probably get decent streetable numbers with an SAFC. i know a lot of people dont like them and apparently "tuners" dont like that...but you can make it work. like someone else said...

so was he supposed to wait at the tree when it turned green? if so, why even have the tree on to begin with?

i'd put money on a motor mount. my spyder does it when i get on it and shift.

do away with the blue interior lighting, the underglow kit, and raise your budget if you want nice rims. personally, i'd get the stock 17 gsx wheels powdercoated bronze.

i concur

get the 420a running well, sell it, and get a 4g63. doing that swap will cost more money and time than what it's actually worth. use your income tax money to get a 4g so you have a few more options as far as swaps go.

not hard at all to replace an oil pan. i always use RTV on my oil pan anytime i have to remove it.

This ^and WE care. you should have just read the thread and left it alone. F&F movies are full of bs cars, and should have stopped after the first one.

unfortunately, i didnt have such good luck with XTD's clutch kit. it took me like almost 3 months to get my money back from the guy..but anywho, hope you have better luck than i did. why not just buy the rebuild kit for the master cylinder? its like $10 or so and takes like...5 min at the...

holy zombie thread batman!!!

wouldnt hurt to have a spare oil pan. if your screw comes and and goes back in, you should be good. if you are able to adjust your ride height up some, i'd suggest doing so. you really don't wanna hit a speed bump or something and hit your oil pan where the pick up is.

xs-power.com has a full kit, short route for $300 shipped. it's got a bigger core and is a nicer kit than some of the more expensive kits out there. i just dont see the point in buying an intercooler kit for more than $400-$500. it's not going to cool the air any more efficiently than a cheap...

the HAFE manifold already has the flange for a 38mm wastegate. it's a cast manifold that looks a lot like stock, but i believe the runners are a lot bigger though. it's a nice manifold, and you can probably get one on ebay for cheap. i think NEW they are like $275 from HAFE. it would be...

i'm not looking to throw down almost $1k for a turbo. hell i only paid $1k for the car.thanks 99gst_racer. i was actually gonna ask you if using the manifold adapter would actually restrict a lot of the airflow. i'm not looking to make a ton of power, but i dont want the airflow to get...

you'll also want to look into a fuel pressure regulator.

actually, you guys who are throwing the "you shouldn't be speeding" around know radar detectors arent used for JUST cops right? a lot of them can actually tell you if an emergency vehicle (firetruck/ambulance) is in the area. so technically, it CAN make you a safer driver.

yeah im stock internals on my spyder. i'm not going to dump money into my dd. figured i'd throw a 14b on with a downpipe and run a narrowband a/f gauge (since i dont plan on running much boost).

i'd keep the t3 on there but i don't wanna dish out a ton of money on a manifold. but like someone else stated previously, i could just hold on to the t3 housing until i get ready to upgrade manifolds.

i dont recall him stating that boring .020 over would give him a 2.3. obviously he knows to get the 100mm crank, since that's all that's needed (along with bearings and the correct pistons) to give him the .3 in displacement.

^ lol you ass. i think i'll get it in a couple weeks.

lol, Scott...finally gonna jump on board with the 20g huh?

just tune with an safc and do without the maft.

check out some of the Volks. i kinda dig the CE28Ns. a gunmetal or black would be pretty badass.

maf is a Mass Air Flow sensor. AFC is an Air Fuel Controller. the NEO (no acronym, it's just the name) will allow you to control your air/fuel at more intervals than a SAFC (Super Air Fuel Controller). i think it's like 16 different points compared to like 8 for the SAFC. i am thinking about...

so i've been thinking about getting a 20g for my Tsi but haven't wanted to spend almost $1k for one. found one from FP thats a t3, but can have a stock 14b/16g turbine housing swapped onto it (which i already have). i was just wondering if anyone was running this particular turbo with OR...

from what i've read, the stock internals on the 2.4 wont hold a lot of boost. i think about 11 or 12 lbs is the max on stock internals. id check out some forged internals. a t3/t4 wont even be efficient at that low of boost. you'll definitely need a wideband, surprised that wasn't...

go with a valentine one. they are expensive...about 400 or so. they will tell you how many radars/lasers it's reading, and in what direction they are coming from. also it can be kept up to date by uploading the new info for radars and new bands police use change. i think it's a cd that comes...

thats when you get it cheap and pay jusmax141 to rebuild it and hook it up!

what would be a good turbo to run on this intercooler setup. i don't want too small of a turbo since i know it's a pretty big intercooler. im running a 14b as of right now, but i dont know if it would be good to get something a little biggerDSM INTERCOOLER KIT 1995 - 1999 2ND GEN 4G63...

ebay all the way when it comes to exhausts.

yeah the part stores like that dont charge to test. it's been forever since i've used a VAT machine. i'd need a refresher.

since the lights flicker until his RPMS are up, i would think it's the alternator since it's part of the charging system. with the car not having the juice to just get it started the battery is a good suspect for that part. just take both the alternator and battery in to have them both tested.