I'm still having a heck of a time.. Any body have input?

Ok ill start off by saying i had a old cable that was left over from a palm setup. So i went out and bought a null adapter and db9 to usb. I downloaded mmcd and for the life of me i can not get it to install. i feel like a complete idiot but i have been on the computer for 5 hours searching...

Anymore advice on this would be great.. Tried new Ecu and still same thing.. For some reason it feels like the clutch safety switch has sometbing to do with it.. If you push clutch pedal down hard to hit the switch then it wants to go.. It doesn't even make sense.. Just lost at this waiting...

Ok update: replaced intake gasket, all exhaust gaskets, t.b. gaskets basically everything from block up.. Boost leak test again 20 psi took aprox 20 seconds to drop to zero.. New 2 prong coolant temp sensor, new plug style coolant temp, new single prong coolant temp, checked all the plugs...

Well I have a walboro 190 also checked injectors 560s and 450s I have 44 psi on the fuel rail.. Can here pump kick on when I spin the cas by hand.. Kinda confused on these 90s I ordered a intake exhaust nd bunch of other gaskets I have it tore down gonna replace the gaskets and fish around for...

Here is what iv done so far... Replaced 02 sensor, new coolant temp sensor, soldiered all the coolant temp plugs and wires because they were bad looking, did a boost leak test to 20 psi minor small leaks like shaft seals and slight injector orings.. Nothing to cause a buck or stall...

I bought a brand new 02 sensor and and got a nice plug.. Tach still doesn't work and any kind of load at all it cuts out.. Kinda confused here.

Sweet thanks for your answers.

But will wiring a 2g O2 plug in and use a 2g O2 sensor work..

I'm pretty sure what I will be attempting to do will work but I wanted to make sure... Ok so I have a 90 gsx, car will idle and free rev just fine.. The minute you take off and put load on it wants to buck and cut out.. It's running pig rich 10.00 on wideband. I replaced coolant temp sensor...

I have my 14b maxed at 22 psi with good afr, no knock and i ran a 13.03 on a 14b so i am going to be running around 18 psi on a 16g. But as you stated 20 psi should require no modifcation to the orings. I am and will be going to a bigger turbo setup as money and time permits. But then again the...

oh really thats all it is is wire? I was under the impression that it was special orings that you had to order.. So basically just take a feeler gauge and measure the width of the groove and the height and then just get copper wire that fits snug. Do you think you could go a hair bigger for...

maybe i will just leave the old ones in then.. I dont plan on running over 20 psi on a 16g anyways. I have arp headstuds i should be ok then just leaving them in and getting a oem headgasket.

I read about 5 or 6 threads.. I didnt see where you could get new ones at though i will message him thank you.

I am going to be pulling my head this weekend due to a headgasket failure. My coolant keeps boiling over, new thermostat, cap, burped, no oil in coolant,no coolant in oil,no smoke,good compression numbers etc.... Anyways when i bought my engine block it was already oringed around each...

Did you get this figured out?

I don't even have that wire hooked up?

Iv been searcing and messing around with it for two days now and still havent figured it out so:Hello everyone, I recently had my ecu socketed and had a chip burned for it.. To make a long story short the chip came with 5 step launch control and nlts..When i do a launch the launch control...

Hello everybody hope all is well.... I am kinda running into a dilemma here... Well to start out i had a chip burned for fic 550 injectors, 5 step launch control, nlts, upgraded timing map etc etc... Well i have 2 problems here.. I installed the ecu and car started and ran.. So first off i went...

Ok man so you did a six bolt swap so your running a 1g cam angle sensor? The 1g cas has a inverted cam single it is 180 degrees off did you try swapping your 1 and 4 plug wires with 2 and 3.. If they are not inverted it will run pig rich and barely run?As for getting help with a aem ems not...

That is a s16g turbo and those are factory can gears. I have the same set in my car. I'm 110 Percent sure

If I was you I'd stick with a stock ecu. Those standalones are more problems then anything. If you have supporting mods and a big enough turbo to make 800 hp then is say keep it but for 160 bucks u can have a killer tuning system on your car using a open port cable. I would put the stock ecu...

I was gonna mix 2 gallons of 110 race fuel with the 4 gallons i had in the car but everyone talked me out of it saying that race fuel burns hot thus causing more knock... Didnt really think it thru i guess i should of. The car launched amazing and pulled good through second just when i hit...

i was only on a maft translator because my ecu didnt come in time.. i had my1gtunning service burn me a chip... He has no lift to shift, my injector dead times dialed in re did the timing and fuel maps, 5 step launch control, eliminating phantom knock, shooting for a 11.5 afr on 91 octane, stock...

I made it out to the track today for the first time.. Best run i had was a 13.03 at 104.1mph. I am running a 14b turbo stock 2g head 6 bolt built block with venolia pistons eagle rods acl race bearings. The car is a 95 talon tsi awd i was running about 17 psi with a 11.4 afr on 91 octane fuel...

http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/1gina2g.pdf 6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse

I heard absolutely no noises.. I checked and bled the system out.. clutch grabs when pedal is about 3/4 way up. Im going to pull my trans off this was a fresh build with about 400 miles on it so im thinking the main seal on the crank is leaking onto the clutch. I will keep everyone updated...

So the other night I took my car for a drive and did some launchs and pulls. I parked my car and the next day I jumped in fired it up and went to take off and there was nothing. It will move like a inch or two if I really rev it.. It grabbed really well the night before and I had no shifting or...

Checked for fluid leaks and rebled clutch

Hey guys running into a slight prob with my 95 awd... Got my car all tuned on 550s 14b at 18 psi. Drove it for a couple days and it pulled very very nicely with 18 degrees of timing with a 11.1 afr. Neways I did a launch just to test out my lsd front and rear and it was a eyeball sucking...

Honestly if i was you bro i would just rebuild the motor your self... as long as you plastigauge everything and check ring gaps and check everything 3 times you shouldnt have any problems. I also built a 2.4 twice and never had luck getting them to stay together. Dont ask me why if its because...

The engine shouldnt be toast maybe bent a couple of valves pull the head off and check the pistons out.

I think i have figured out what is wrong here... I was trying to set my stft and ltft last night and while i was playing with the maft i noticed everytime i turned a knob nothing happened and he car would idle the same and id get the same afr. I wouldnt even get a red flash to show that the unit...

I have been looking into to speed density... I already have the gm map sensor and the gm iat sensor... What programs do you guys suggest. Jackal? Ds-map? Ostrich? I "WAS" leaning towards flashing the ecu since i already have evoscan and a vag-com cable so all i would need would be the open port...

i have tried leaning it out all the way i even tried switching the base on the maft to adjust the whole curve and still notta... it made me think my timing was off a half a tooth or something but its dead on...

Ok lets start this thread out with just saying i hate posting unless I have to... To bring everyone up to date on my car it is a 95 awd, 6 bolt swap with venolia pistons, eagle rods, acl race bearings, polished crank 14b turbo, huge front mount, turbo xs bov, maft with gm 3 inch, fic 550s, mbc...

I am using evoscan just soley for logging i have no other means of tuning besides a maft translator. I dont have the open port cable, im using a vag 409.1 cable. Im pretty sure my crank pulley is seperating because it is now rubbing into my timing cover... Could be causing some of the knock issues.

you can see i am getting insane amounts of knock. Probably phantom knock not to sure whats going on. knock sensor is new.. I am getting 22 degrees of timing thought which is odd for that much knock. I am seeing 11.1 afr on 11-12 psi 800 celsius on my egt and around 80 percent injector duty...

No its the stock map on the stock ecu i didn't change a thing, I don't see where it says engine load on evoscan is it ecu load that i log for engine load or???

So i have a 98 galant with the 4g64 I swapped to a dohc head and a 98 flashable ecu. I am running 450cc injectors with a S16g at 10 psi. I am using evoscan to do some logs so i was wondering if you guys could pick them apart and tell me how it looks thanks.

Bring it back from the dead again.. What if 3e or 26 does not work. I am seeing knock voltage, knock change, knock base etc... But i still cant get knock sum to work. I am using the vag 409.1 to log with. Any ideas?

did you ever finish this?

Hooked the broken wires up to the coolant temp sensor and it started on first try and runs good thanks for all the help.

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:banghead:

as for checking the timing lol Dowel pins at 12 oclock timing marks on cams facing each other. piston 1 is at tdc, timing mark on crank lines up perfect, spun the motor over bunch of times and everything lines back up including the oil pump and balance shaft that my buddy refused to let me...

I said i even went through the trouble to pull the whole rail. I bolted the line from the filter to the rail back on and put the return line back on left all four injectors in the rail. put a towl over the valve cover had my buddy crank the car and all four injectors were spraying fuel all over...

Ya not to sure how long the car has sat for. he just picked it up about 3 weeks ago. I guess bad fuel would cause it not to start but it would have to be really bad. Would the turbo not spinning when its cranking cause it not to start? Yet the turbo spins freely when i spin it by hand. Coolant...

sounded smooth, Ok i know this might be a long shot but i did noitce when i was swapping over the cam gears to this new head my buddy ordered it said b and c on the camshaft. Now my natural assumption would be brian crower but i dont understand why a 300 dollar ebay reman head would come with...