The car had a stock 7-bolt with a blown turbo. The guy who owned it pulled the engine and sold me the shell. I installed a full 6-bolt with all different components from which it had before including a different used alternator, all engine components and such. I re did some wiring but it was all...

I added more grounds and cleaned the existing grounds and still same problem. Could my alternator possibly be shorting internally or have an issue with it somewhere? Any thoughts?

i haven't added any other than factory. All factory grounds are in place with good connections. It shouldn't need more than factory.

Hello, i just installed a 6-bolt engine in my 95 tsi awd and it randomly sparks like a arcing plug wire however its sparking at the crank pulley. It only sparks when the engine is running. There are no electrical problems what so ever and the engine does not misfire or anything, idles smooth. It...

I paid 1000 for an already assembled .020 over weisco, crower setup with 0 miles. Sometimes the deals are out there and saves lots of time.

I personally would not pay 5k for that, you can get a 2gb awd with lots of mods for that price. And with a clean title.

Look on the classifieds, many heads available for sale.

Well the first thing i would check is your intercooler piping and see if there is oil in there. If so check the turbo. If not i would then be thinking valve guide seals, or bad oil rings on the pistons. Other possibilities are the galley gaskets on the valve cover or a leaking headgasket.

I would get an actual biss screw instead of a cork, there is an o-ring on the biss screw to seal it. Stock internals will hold 15psi.

That is not a dsm turbo. Has a t-3 flange/ hot side. Could have came off a dsm but it isnt a factory bolt on for sure.

Check your 6-bolt CAS wiring, sounds like your not getting either fuel or spark. I would def try and figure out what your not getting to track down the cause.

If you want to hear something interesting, i used a plastic foot from a couch and tapped it with an air compression fitting and threw a coupler on the thing and works like anything you can buy lol.

As far as the firing order you just swap your plug wires on your coil accordingly.

A jeep cherokee can easily pull a talon with a tow dolly. I have done it before without any issues. And it also had 200,000 miles on it.

I have also personally liked and had good luck (quality wise) with the R&D exhaust on my 1g. Sounded great with a good tone and was a slight power adder from factory.

^^i agree with this guy^^Turbo is a direct swap for your 1g, however i would recommend getting new copper crush gaskets for your water and oil feed line, and new oil return gaskets to prevent any leaks from re-using the original ones.

^^ I agree with this guy. Also there are alot of moving parts on that side obviously so i would also check the ac compressor, alternator, and ps pump to make sure its no issues there.

The Donkey Kick is a definite unapproved method for DSM's LOL. Works on many things. I just do the old fashion bench press method anymore with a friend under the hood helping from the top.

I find FML to be entertaining at times.

I would check your spark plugs first as a basic check. If they are worn or fouled out that could be a problem. Also have you changed your fuel filter?

When i first broke it in i did light throttle cruising, did a few low boost pulls, and i was all over the rpm range on non synthetic oil.I will definitely take your advise and drive it another 500-1000 miles and see what happens, i also just flat out never drive the darn thing because i have a...

What i do is take the proper size boost leak tester for your turbo and remove your intake pipe and clamp on your boost leak tester to the turbo. Hook up your air line from your air compressor to your boost leak tester and adjust your pressure regulator to 15-20psi. If you have a leak you will...

I would definitely get rid of the stock t-25 turbo and upgrade a step. A 14b or a 16g would be a nice mild start.

Well i now have 500+ miles on the build here also with an oil change with non synthetic oil, and it still smokes after idling for a little bit. I can't notice any smoking while driving or under boost but after it stops and ildles for about 45 seconds to a minute it smoke enough to be noticeable...

Good luck with the fix.

Once the transmission is pulled away a bit from the engine and off the dowl pins, you can rotate the transmission enough to clear the diff housing away from the subframe.

Are you running a manual boost controller? Depending on the style, i had a bleed off style and the lower i had the boost set the later boost would hit. The higher i had it set the quicker it spooled.

I have a 1995 gsx 6-bolt build that is currently doing the same thing. It smokes after it starts to warm up. No smoke on initial start up and no smoke while under load. After it idles for a minute it starts smoking, not like a chimney but noticeable. I have 600 miles on the break in new machine...

Does your car still have the 7-bolt bottom end?

I guess it would by eliminating some of the crankcase pressure, but does my symtoms fall in line with my rings not being seated do you think?I would tend to think that it would smoke all the time if my rings were not seated yet or properly?

Hello, i have a 95 gsx with a fresh 6-bolt engine. My issue is it seems to be burning some oil at idle. I only have 20 miles on so far and the a/f ratio is perfect at idle. The engine has new internals, machine work, and new rings and valve seals. It does not smoke on initial start up but once...

Yes i can put the intake tube back on with factory 2g mas. I was reading up and that was suggested. It looks like i have to switch the ecmlink back the 2g maf setup and do some logging? Also i never setup a mas before, i know there sometimes is smoothing to be done. Once i dial in the 2g mas...

Hey guys, i am hoping to get some help getting my 2g up and running with speed density. I have ecmlink v3 full with an aem 3.5bar map sensor. I currently have the ecmlink running on speed density but it idles pig rich in the 12.0 range. I could use some tips on seting up a base speed density...

If it clicks and then you lose all power and your battery is good and if your alternator is good, check all fuses obviously and you more than likely have a very bad short to ground on one of your main positive wires going to your battery or you have very poor connections on your battery. I've...

I have a six bolt engine that is bored .80 over 10:1 compression running 1/2 93 octane and 1/2 ethenal on 19psi and made 338whp and 344 torque with a nice fuel curve and minimal knock with a dsm link for tuning.