I've never really ran into a ridge issue with 4g motors. The majority of them have a large amount of carbon built up at the top I'd scrub it off before knocking the pistons out. Then depending on if the pistons came out without breaking rings then check ring tension. If the two check out dingle...
Yeah I get that that's why I included my experience with the Hobart 140. It's made by miller uses all miller consumables and parts. I've been using it for 9yrs or better and have only had to change the torch liner. Parts are cheap and available everywhere.
Well I think if you read what's been posted you'll have a good idea. I still like and use my handler 140 I love it with .025 wire its great on sheet metal.
I have stripped PC with aircraft stripper also no issues.
But I really wanted to bump this for a good write up on the zinc yellow chromate that is awesome.
This question will always have different answers depending on who is asked.
When I painted mine I built a booth out of PVC and plastic sheeting along with some 2x4s in places it needed extra strength.Mine was a somewhat down draft cross flow designed sorts with 3 box fans on the top of one...
Is it lowered? Fwd 1gs use a track bar to locate the rear axle when you lower the car it essentially makes the bar longer causing one side to poke out further.
Well never mind w4a33.com has a great article about his kit. When I change converters that's the route I'll be going. I'd rather not gamble on the sinister seems like the first time you have an issue your right to the price of a j Bush unit.
Nice I was more interested in reading up on the kit first just to get an idea of what it's all about. I probably won't be swapping converters till next year after I get to that point.
I love my ahp but when and if it does die I'll be getting either an htp or an everlast. I like how the cheap Chinese welders have the extra knobs and controls so you can fine tune them. I almost got a Hobart tig but I didn't like how you just had a setting for whatever you were welding without...
None there's no special tools needed to time the engine. You don't need to remove the engine either. Just pull the head off get a good sized plastic tote and a gallon of mineral spirits and some cheap bathroom scrub brushes and clean up the head in that. If it's got oil in the cooling system I'd...
Look for soot around joints. But with an exhaust leak I'd guess you would be going lean not rich. Your symptoms seem like a boost leak. The only sensor that is going to come into play to cause your overly rich concern is the mas. At wot the oxygen sensor gets disregarded and the ecu does fueling...
I know the feeling. I've been restoring mine for 2years and finally got it finished only to pop an oil cooler hose and make glitter oil. Luckily it just beat up the rod bearings but now I get to take it out and do it again. Only this time I'm going to put my smaller cams in. The gsc s2 are just...
Old thread I'll go out on a limb and say that he wont respond.
For your issue you need to start with the basics. Boost leak test and a proper go over of your ignition system. I was fighting a lean breaking up issue with mine that turned out to be 2 of my brand new plugs had hairline cracks in...
I'm hoping that you find an answer to your injector issue as I was having a similar problem with my 1600s. I'm using five0 black ops 1600s which are bosch. I put in all the data that came with them and the only way I could get them to idle with fuel trims normal was either extremely high mas...
What I do is run it to temp for about 20mins on first start up then drop the oil. Drive it varying load for about 50 to 100 miles drop again. Then 500 then 1k then since my cars barely get driven I usually just change the oil every season. I'm lucky to put 1k on it a year. But definitely inspect...
You wont make any more power changing injectors. There's way more that goes into it. You get more power from bigger injectors when your putting more air into the engine like with forced induction. Then you're going to need a way to compensate for the injector size with some way of tuning the ecu.
All turbos need to be properly fed and drained. Dont buy the -10 drain kits they are under 1/2 inch in the fittings plus the fittings make them a pain to work with. I usually just buy a 3/4 hose adapter off the turbo and use 3/4 hose to pipe adapters into the pan. Way cheaper and if you tap or...
Glad to see your perseverance. I for one would probably be interested in a fix up kit if you get one going. I get it I dont need a bigger tb but damn it I kinda want one lol.
That's kinda the mantality of a lot of car enthusiasts upgrades. I really like the look of the s90 over stock and I've...
Yes even if you wire in a different switch your still going to need a properly adjusted throttle stop. I went round trying to get my idle right and it was due to me just setting the idle switch to where it closes not putting the proper preload on it when closed. Then also verify that your...
That's a copy of the old south Florida performance manifold.
Try and find an old hafe manifold. I've been using the sbr 2nd copy for years without issue.
Most of the time it's a boost leak. The ecu doesn't care about boost pressure it looks at what the maf airflow. If your getting fuel cut or more accurately spark cut at 11 to 12 psi it's more likely that there is a leak after the maf. What are you using to compensate for the 550s?
Dump that t they are prone to fail and dump all your oil. I use a 4 an to 1/8 bsp to 4an then run a braided 4 an line from that to my aftermarket senders. It looks like you have an unused 1/8 port pointing down that you could take the plug out of for the dummy light. Also the light flickering...
Take all the belts off one at a time and check. It almost sounds like something rubbing on the front cover. Hard to say but definitely sounds like something in the accessory drive. I've had harmonic pulleys make noises like that when they start slipping.
As far as clamps go the constant tension clamps are the way to go especially on stock plastic radiators. Then it's just worm gear clamps I'd never use t bolt clamps they suck. Ams had a great article on their site comparing t bolts to worm gear. I've always used worm gear clamps on intercooler...