Extremely beautiful build. :applause:Shoot me a text when you decide to start on the VC baffles again. I sent you a text yesterday axing about them. I got monies in hand and wanna be first on the list LOL.

The problems i see with a a full vband style connection is that it doesnt allow for flex at the motor vibrates or rocks back and fourth. Wiggins clamps allow for some angular deflection and some compression/pull on the pipes too while giving you complete aircraft quality seal. They are actually...

LOL WUT? exhibit A of misinformation. No new board is needed, just a 28pin chip.

Honestly, its not so much the system, but the person behind it. Just like the gun thing Mr PopUp mentioned. Doesnt matter if its a .22, 7.62X54R, or .50BMG and idiot with a gun is an idiot with a gun. So if you are hacking things with fuel pressure, AFC's, Link, DSMAP, Standalone. If you dont...

You mad brah? LOLMike still owns RRE, I manage the shop and geek on the internets. Base fuel pressure can only raise the injector flow amount up to a point. There is a concept in fluid dynamics called choked flow. Increase in fluid pressure will raise the volume of fliud through a...

To the guy who says link is not needed. What do you do when you up your injector size to accomdate for more boost or a bigger turbo. 450's hardly supports a stock setup. SAFC? that thing is a joke. Tuning has way more potential for porformance gains vs any other bolt on mod you can do. DSM link...

DSMlink. Inless you plan on tuning yourself and become a nerd. DSMlink offers anything that anyone would need in engine management and more. EMS on the other hand, over colplicated, and just fun to nerd out on. Only reason I run EMS is cause I find it fun. My car makes the same power on EMS or link.

Set the MAF type to speed density. Clear the DTC, it shouldnt come back. Your going to need to tune the ve tables for your car.

Wow...a lot of wrong info here. If your car is running rich already, why would you think bigger injectors will fix that? That just adds more fuel. GM mafs and MAF-T just plain ol suck. The only thing they ever had going for them is that you can run it blow through and vent your BOV. Other than...

Does the o2#1 channel in the software match your guage? Are you using AEMPro or AEMtuner?

Sorry but, brief question, brief answer. We can only guess, at what you are trying to say. Then guess at an answer. But if you are refering to the 2G NT in your profile, then...you have a 420A. Chrysler Dodge Neon motor. 6bolt and 7bolt refer to the 4G63T's in the GST, GSX (turbo models.)

There is still way more in it. Shoot for a 11.7:1 or 12:1 AFR on e85. See if it makes more power, some car will gain a good 20~25whp. Some wont get much more than 5, but play it based upon the gain. If leaning out by 10% nets you 25whp, then its worth it, if its 5, the richen it back up. But the...

Its not that bad. This isnt going to be your race car or anything, its just a winter beater. Geeze some of the guys here get all bent and are talking spending 2~4K in building a 1K car.If any of you other guys had, say a cheap CRX as a beater and your dsm as your nice car. And your beater...

So.. Remove plug with few tools. Transfercase, rear diff, rear axles magically appear. ???????? PROFIT!1G AWD and FWD have nothing in common driver seat back. EVERYTHING is different back there. 2GNT's and 2Gturbo have more in common firewall forward than 1G awd and fwd have driver seat...

4b11 will make more power pound per pound of boost. Compressions and a nice flowing cylinder head, and vvt on both cams. Evo's 4~10 in general and above have a better drivetrain set up. The engine is rotated 180* in the engine bay, and the crank actually rotates the same direction the wheels...

Whatever happened to the OP? :)

My AIT died using at one point due to spraying water/meth at it. Car ran spot on and I didn't even notice it ws dead till one day for whatever reason decided to pay attention to AIT's because the logged ignition timing and what was denoted didnt match up and realized ait's was -70F. AFR's were...

+1 timing should be 5degrees advanced. Retarded timing = mix burning late on the way out of the cylinder, thus high egt's. I would look into the knock sensor also, if its dead the car will get no timing advance at all, and increase EGT's to keep cylinder temps down.

This is true, you cant adjust the DA tables as the engine is running and it needs to be shut off ECUflash style. AEM is on the fly. Currently Thomas is working on that to enable on the fly DA changes, hence development in the next update or so is what it seems like. But really how much would it...

Told ya! :PGlad you got it fixed. Cheap, not too much work either.

I wouldnt judge any engine managment systems based on how much power it made or how fast a car is. There are fast cars without any sort of management. Just a carb, small wrenches and a screw driver. Power is denoted by parts on the car, boost level, and tuner competance. You can have a $12,000...

Holy crap. I read through 1.5 pages of the Jackle vs Link nut swinging contest, thought this died. Geeze I should just troll and make fake screen names and keep asking which would be better in 10 different threads. Tuners would melt down.Here is my take on all of it. And also I've dabbled a...

I've gotta say. Big ups to FIC for putting their neck out and standing by their product and loaning you a test set. Glad you got it solved Craig.

OP, dsmlink and Ecmlink are both the same thing just so you know. They just changed the name due to plans to branch out beyond DSM's. And a 4G with a "DSM"Link in it would be a crying shame since we know those aren't Daimond Star. It would be like calling a Vette Mopar power.

With how much a sidemount flows, you probabaly wont make much power at 23psi. Its just choking the flow. You'll make more tq at the boost level with e85 timing levels and fuel ratios, but top end flow (HP) will suffer. With a FMIC you can run that boost level, but probably better at 19~20psi to...

HX35 is a decent powerband for road course. Honestly, you can run fast and have a blast in a 200whp car. Its a different diving style, more just carrying momentum. But 4K RPM spool style turbos are great in road courses, preferbly linear power bands, I hate the turbos that hit like on/off...

Motor is fine. I dont see why you have a 300sx with a HKS264/272?But yes, that turbo is too big. And power level really depend on the track, if it has little to no straits, it would be pointless to have a 500whp car. More power, means you going to need more driver, more tire, more brakes...

you just need Link. Both are two different management systems that replace the stock ECU. You can only run one at a time.

Real engine managment control fueling through directly controlling injector pulse width. Piggy backs like the afc control fuel by modifying the airflow value, ecu sees less air, dumps less fuel. The bad side with that is when the ECU sees less air, it thinks there is less boost, so it adds more...

Just to add fuel to this fire here. Hi, my name is Sam. *everyone- "Hi Sam"* I run a Wally255, with a stock FPR and proud of it.Its my DD, drag car, autox car, road race car. I've tuned it on both DSMLink 2.5 and V3, and AEM EMS. All systems were 440+ whp on 91 octane. I average 20mpg, 26mpg...

Sounds like rod knock to me. The part y ou say about remove the plug/injector causing it to stop is kinda tell tale. Best thing is to drop the pan and confirm it.BTW, I was just out in Hawaii last month. Loved it and will definitly be back next year.

Just to confirm, you checked base timing with a timing light right? Just people mix up valve timing and ignition timing. The lack of ignition timing you are getting leads me to believe that base timing is in the range of 10* BTDC. Any other back story, is the car a 2.3L? Most cars usually can...

Cracked is all mad. Sorry bro.On the track question, I do more than just 1/4 mile. I AutoX and Road Road race my DD. Usually out at the local tracks its 105+* air temps and 130+* track temps. Any drops of water from the AC system usualy vaporizes instantly, some of the cars out there run...

Ahahaha, David Thorne. Guy who emailed his creditor a picture of a spider he drew on MS paint as payment for his credit card. Then asked for them to return it to him when they didnt accept it in lue of money.

the weather suck balls right now....:notgood:

I agree, sounds like the big 36mm? i think, nut on the end of 5th gear. Highly doubt the shift fork is worn, the 5th gear one is steel with a nylonish sleeve. The fact that its more localized to just 5th only leads me to believe that nut back off and is loose.

Its not too bad. Most JDM catback options like the Apexi N1 for the FWD DSM's have a resonator which internal diameter is down to 1.5" or so. The AWD N1's are full 3", dunno why they decided to bottle up the FWD's. 3" would be better, but the 2.5 isnt that bad.check it out: Index of...

+1 plug gap. At those boost levels plug gap should be .020" maximum. I'm at around .018" at 32psi.

AEM uses the stock AC input into the ECU. You tell it what to do with the signal via the Idle A/C Load Comp option. You set how many steps the ISC moves to achive target idle with the AC on. AEM also works with the powersteering pressure switch input to raise the idle when the engien sees power...

Your boost EST and actual boost dont line up. Your MAFComp in boost area is too high by about 10~11%. Check your base timing, I dont see why your timing dips to 1* at peak torque and you are only getting 7.8* of timing at peak power.

What compensates for your AC, fans cycling on and off, or just extra load on alternator? Dunno About you, but I track my car with AC, headlights on and sound system bumping. Then again on the track you dont idle much. Oh and I DD the car. :hellyeah: As far as how many ECU's I've seen killed by...

yes, link takes its tach signal from the CAS, the tach takes the signal from the ignitor directly.

i'd check the ignitor module first. Then if thats good, maybe the motor in the actual cluster is bad.

What turbo are you running, just cause it can make that pressure doesnt mean it will make any more power. A 16G can do 31psi of boost, but after 25 it stops making power. As for head bolts, switch em out for ARP's

You can run higher boost if you have enough fuel, right tuning, and if you head doesnt life due to stock head bolts. Then there is also the question of if your turbo will make any more power past 20psi. There are a ton of variables that go into this.

Geeze...LOL Tuners can make vanilla cupcakes into a 3 page discussion. But I wrote that article, Yes it closes the valve that should shut when the TB is warm. If you follow the article, you wont need a block off plate unless you want to disable your ISC also, but I dont see why anyone would want...

a 2.0 vs a 2.3L shouldnt matter at all. Speed density works off given constants and measured variables.Take this for instance. A 2.0L engine at 14.7PSIa at 3000RPM can theoreticly consume 6000cc's of air at 100% VE per given moment. Lets throw in a poor design head and crap cams and say...

I've been on vacation but....Any updates on this? Get a chance to borrow Corey's injectors? Or just throw in some stockers and stay out of boost. Just to see if that dip is still there.

You would feel a miss. It either fires or doesn't and why would it only be at that specific RPM. Ignition is more likely to fault under more load and high rpm. More pressure in the cylinder requires more energy to create an arc. And high rpm doesn't allow for much charge time before the next...

There can be a spots you can actually have less fuel with more duty cycle. Everything in your provided log proved this, every value that goes into fueling remained linear, but actual output value was different from the the ecu would expect. Unless the engine actually consume more air due to some...