I'm assuming your talking about MS?Closed loop is best to run during part throttle through 100kpa; Turn off when in decel and in boost. Closed loop changes the speed density calcs to obtain the correct AFR. Open loop is without correction from "a" sensor.

Just to update on the deal i recently came across:Modern performance did the last group buy for Quaifes on the .org, they later bought extra units to keep them from dying:Drivetrain - Quaife Limited Slip Differential 95-05 NeonPicked one up several days ago for this price, so I can tell...

What is the idle fuel pressure? What disk/shim and spring combo do you have?There should be two springs and three to four different disks you can use. (Depending on the injectors)If you are using stock fuel injectors then you shouldn’t be seeing a rich AFR once engine is at operating...

You can try pftuning, it’s based in VA Beach. Peter Florence is experienced with tuning (dyno) and repairing MS on just about any car. You can contact him @ pftuning.com and on msextra.com user name Peter Florence.

MS2 can support stepper and sequential injection but you would need to add a DB9, cam sync and injector driver board. So you might as well get the MS3 with its ability for more options and SD card for logging.TachOut and something to switch the fan relays. Daily driving dependability will...

I think I used an IC from a digital gauge I built some time ago, but come to think about it, you can use just a relay to trigger the AFC. Connect a relay to AFC (VOUT) and BATT (VIN). Use the 5vref wire to switch on and off the SAFC. (Positive input switch) Make sure you don't hook up the output...

You should be able to handle 275cc (in profile) just fine without one. If you have a constant 5v coming in on the Vref and a output of 4.5v or above with the key "on" then you have the problem I mentioned.

Seems like this only happens to 96'; It happened to me in the past.The PCM is checking the voltage for ~5v (Atmospheric pressure) several seconds after you turn the key to off. Because you have the SAFC installed, when you turn the key off this in turn opens the circuit and blocks the signal...

Yep, heat soak invalidates T in megasquirts formula, more important on a force induction engine. Many have had better results with the IAT on the CAI or IC pipe over IM; it does save headaches in the summer time and gets to the actual temp faster. FWIW, I use an open element GM IAT sensor.

The TPS shouldn't cause you to reset, it's usually due to a strong misfire (never had it happen yet), or bad grounds. If the TPS accel is turned on you may want to turn it off for now until you get a smoother signal. To prevent ground loops you want to ground everything in one spot. Rewiring the...

So, I went ahead and made the circuit a while ago and it runs fine. Maybe you were shorting something with a low pot value or maybe a supply line? Don’t mind the first pot before the first comparator, it’s just there so I could simulate the voltage. It’s clamping the voltage:

Here’s something to get you started:Voltage ClampIf you don’t have the proper test equipment or know how, you may want to leave it to someone who knows what to do. Again, cheap solutions.

You won't need one if you're running under 400cc injectors and a different cam profile. Your profile says you're running a 12:1 fmu? So you don't need a SAFC. If you plan on running more than 10 psi in the future you may want to look building a MS2 (It's the cheapest solution for what it can do)...

Your TPS is fine. Probing the sensors harness, you should see around ~3.70v when fully open and ~.4-.6v when fully closed. Looking at the voltages compared to a linear 0-5v signal you will find the percentages are the same. (e.g.: 3.70v of 5.00v = 74% / .6v of 5.00v = 12%) All of my loggers did...

I've ran the FMU and the SFMU w/ SAFC many years before running MS several years. The SAFC is useless if you have a 12:1 w/ stock or slightly upgraded injectors. I used one to keep me from burning out my O2 @ idle and cruise to obtain good gas mileage but it does work fine with a SFMU. (Not...

Most stock Honda sensors can read up to a max of 10 PSI and doesn't cut fuel at 101 kPa. Anyways, Megasquirt would only be mandatory if you're aiming over 300chp. (IMO) Bigger injectors and a SAFC w/ adjustable regulator, map clamp could be used but the downside is its costly and idle fuel...

There isn't a resistance you're looking for as the sensor is a crystal. The only way to truly test it (if the wiring too and from it is in good shape) would be a hard tap to the sensor with a volt meter on AC or better yet a oscilloscope set around 5ms/DIV. Not to say that the sensor won't fail...

I had this happen to me several days ago, but fixed it yesterday. I was losing coolant every 30 miles or so, didn't really notice it.No signs of leaking anywhere (not even around the neck), passed the leak down test but failed when I pressurized the coolant system. Turned out my coolant cap...

My bad on not being clear. I meant 1-4v RMS is what you should be seeing from the crank signal when the crank is spinning at low RPM's. You see these voltages because the voltmeter is averaging the missing tooth pulses (5v) with the low metal signal (.4v), as rpm increases you start to see...

That should be right about what you should see while the crank is spinning. (with an average volt meter) Are you sure there are no parts of the shielding wire touching the coaxial cable over the insulator by any chance? It will still show the same resistance even if the shielding wire is...

Is it in the 10's when you see the smoke?Is this the same tune you had going into the rebuild?What does the smoke smell/look like, are you sure it isn't coolant or possibly oil seeping in through the head gasket/seals or anywhere around the engine from your rebuild? If it smells like...

Any chance you're speaking of the BPR7ES's for the 4g63? If so... different plug, different motor.

It's good to know someone else is running a SFMU 1:1. :)Every time you shift, the map will go to a high point (bottom of the map), and if your VE cells are rich it will cause all kinds of weirdness. Try leaning up the bottom of the fuel map and idle. Your ASE sounds about right (AFR wise), but...

He's already running one range colder. Its the correct plug. Also, The part number you gave is a E not ES.NGK.com - Cross Reference Search ResultsThey changed the part number from 6097 to 4644. Most keep them gaped at .028 but .03 should be fine. They changed the part number because it had...

Depends on whether you need bigger injectors or not, granted you have the correct idle fuel pressure.To make problems easier you have to confirm your ECU is acting normal out of boost, and sensors such as the map sensor and 02 isn't trippin'. (sigh...95's ;)) It would also be wise to check...

No need to if you have windows 7 x64 Professional, Enterprise, or Ultimate. You can just install the virtual machine that allows you to run windows XP inside of the 64 bit OS with all x86 (32 bit) features. If you decide/can upgrade, make sure you have enough ram and CPU power.Download Windows...

For starters...2GNT.com - Power_Stages

lolThat was a big if, but yea you don't want 't' as there was problems with the firmware; 'u' is currently the most stable. You must make a new .msq from scratch as the two .ini's aren't compatible from 2.1.0 to 3.0.3u. However, when you get it loaded its normal to see 3.0.3s instead of...

Yea, 55 sounds much better than 15.I got mine at 2 seconds, drops to a solid idle.On 2gnt I remember you having minimum steps at 3, you only want to have it fully closed to where it won't stall you engine. You usually want to have it around 20-30 or so steps. (or wherever you want your...

Yea, it's normal. MS reads the CLT sensor before injecting what ever value you had. If you look at TS you should be able to see the gauge jump to whatever PW you have for a brief second, if that doesn't work you should see it in the logs.

Currently, the developers for MS3 are working on something called AC idle up. (with promising results) The code will add x number of steps when there is stress on the engine from either lights, fans, PS, AC, ect. via input. MS2 doesn't support it yet, but I believe it eventually will. Reducing...

Where did you get your facts from? MSnS-E through MS3 has real-time baro correction. It's a fact that when typing "baro correction" in Google the first 10 links have something to do with Megasquirt.There are many ways around tuning accel and warm-up but I won't get into all of that because it...

Glad I could help. ;) If there is by chance you updated your firmware to 3.0.3s or 't' you would want to update it to 'u'. One of the developers made a page several bytes bigger causing odd behavior when burning or reading a MSQ. The .ini would be the same as 's' and 't' so you don't have to...

It's the main site..They are nice units, but there still is a problem with the injector inductance circuits in them causing a MIL on the 420a's. There have been posts on the AEM site about this but there hasn't been anything done about it. Once MS is tuned you can use closed loop correction...

You really should search there is plenty of info on msextra and msefi that are worth reading. MS1 works just fine, many people have proven it. MS2 and 3 have more precision and make a powerful daily driver much easy to manage. MS3 is still under development but since the dual core processor has...

I was thinking about doing an extensive write up to go here on tuners some time ago, but got bombarded with other projects.There are primarily three things you need to consider.1.Fuel (includes stable pulsewidth and AFR, but will be tricky to implement with EGO correction on at idle)...

Here is the link on the main site....Bomz Racing Light weight underdrive pulley 1995-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Non TurboNever herd of them but anything should be better over the stock UDP...

Remember guys this is a 420a. Stock fuel pressure is ~50. Whenever you add cams like crower 3's you will be pig rich on a stock PCM. Best option he has is to get everything sorted out and use megsquirt to control idle, fuel, and spark.

I would rent a fuel pressure tester before proceeding just to make sure you're getting the fuel pressure you need from your fuel system. I would test at start up and in running mode. A lack of fuel pressure normally causes the problem your seeing, assuming your spark plugs are gaped...

Yup. :thumb:

Glad to hear you got it started. Look for vac leaks, there could have been a chance there is a gasket letting air in (at the TB and IM) or the o ring that mates the TB to the IAC is letting air past it when you changed it. Spray some carb cleaner (or something to get the idle up) or listen...

It should be able to start without it, but I would hook it up if it is unplugged as the ECU will run the engine conservative. I’m surprised you haven’t gotten a CEL for that...

Ok, so you know you're getting fuel, compression now all you need is spark, with an exception. With your current spark plugs, you may want to change them because they may be fouled. With the cam sensor it will be harder to check due to the low voltage it outputs, but you can try and verify that...

What exactly do your spark plugs read? Is there any indication there was fuel being injected into the cylinders? With starter fluid you should be able to get the engine to start for a brief second, if your ignition is working properly. Are you sure your getting spark? I would look into your coil...

Scoping my O2 a while back and I got a maximum amplitude of .9v with an operating voltage of .1-.9v. I made a narrowband light show with 10 LEDs 7 years ago that worked well (with a small delay and average). The only time I seen under .1v is when the engine was off. .5v from the sensor is...

To make sure this thread isn't wasted....This is how I use to have mine – I had 2 T female fittings that were 3/8 (NPT) all the way around, they were connected by a 3/8 male to male connector. Then I had a 1/8 to 3/8 adapter at the top of one T for my AEM gauge sensor. I then plugged my stock...

Sounds like an OEM gasket, if his tune was on point. (Thin gasket that always caused oil leaking problems in the back of the block, seen many cause issues like this with boost) You don't need ARPs if you're running on stock internals; at the bare minimum get a MLS gasket from partsdionosaur.com...

Looks perfectly fine to me other than that boost leak.:D If there was something wrong with your cam/crank sensor you would experience misfires or you would have a CEL. (Usually) As I and others mentioned, you should be able to build boost under load/accelerating whether there is electrical...

I can understand what you're saying but you said your vacuum gauge doesn't even register 1 psig. (And because of that I'm not sure you can blame that on the fuel system, unless its super lean, but then it would buck, studder, and possibly overheat.) What are your AFRs before entering boost? Do...

Any idea to why you're running a SAFC with a 12:1 FMU? The only time it will be useful is if you're running something like a SFMU to help lean out idle with bigger injectors. (That's about all there good for) Otherwise, who knows what effect it could have on your timing. I would double check...