Looks like they tightened the trans bolts with the water pipe tab flipped down, or a wire stuck between.It can be welded. I always bolt them to a junk block to weld them, or they warp.
Every box of Acl alumiglide bearings I’ve ever opened had metal shavings in them.They’ve also had qc issues with 6g72 bearings (sizing).
I use king in everything.
The exhaust stroke is hardest. Positive pressure air is blowing into the cylinder pushing the piston down in a turbo application. Even the exhaust stroke gets padded by exhaust back pressure.
There is no thrust bearing on the shaft. That’s the only thing that takes an axial load. A stub shaft is just as likely to move axially as a whole shaft.We ran stub shafts in 1300+ hp builds with a fuel pump driven off the timing belt. Zero pump issues.
The upgraded rod bolts are a waste of money in a forced induction setup. We ran 7’s with arp 2000’s and never had a bottom end failure during the whole program. We went from 10’s to 7’s with hundreds of passes over 3 years.In forced induction there is exhaust back pressure pushing down on the...
I’ve broken at least 20 stock gear transmissions, taken them apart and saw how they failed. Fwiw I still have less than a full dog box costs spent on trans parts.3rd of 4th always break at the onset of peak torque, whether you roll in, or flat shift. Flat shifting makes the hit even harder.
Breaking third gear from a roll you started at 3,500 rpm’s has nothing to do with clutch engagement.Flat shifting into 3rd or 4th is a nono, no matter the clutch.
I had a big name trans shop tell me to my face that all the treatments people do to stock Dsm gears are a waste of money. That the reason they offer them is customer demand.Our 3rd and 4th gears have the teeth ripped off the base circle, there’s not really much you can do about that.
I would never buy stock bore pistons for a block I haven’t first honed and measured myself, or by a shop I trust.It may be surface rust that will clean up with another .001” or so taken out. Those pistons will work ok out to about .0055” clearance for a street car.It needs to be honed with a...
Those marks look like corrosion. Either from sitting with water in the cylinders or cracks in the cylinder wall. I highly doubt a stock bore block cracked with a 14b, it’s probably going to need to go .010”-.020”over to clean up.Did they mention anything about taper or out of round?
If the valve isn’t closing all the way it could allow the engine to hold decent pressure at low flow until the oil thins out.What did the aluminum case around the pump gears look like?
We usually shoot for .0035” in the high powered stuff but went as big as .0045” in a 6bolt 4g63 block that trapped 180 mph in a 3000gt.The issue was the block and crank flexing and making contact at the main bearing. A little more room and the parts stopped wearing.The amount of high...
We ran some really big clearances in stock block casting big power builds. There is a hard drop after .0045” clearance in pressure even with all squirters and balance shafts deleted. In those engines dominator straight 60 had to be used as well.As for the op’s issue I seem kind of stumped too...
I don’t know if they’ll fit without cutting the main caps in half. I remove a lot of material from them for 88mm stroke builds. You’ll also have to notch the bottom of the bores.
I don’t thread anything into them once that happens. I redrill holes and use m8 bolts and nuts. That way when (not if) they seize, I just break them in half with a breaker bar.
If the crank touched the block where the thrust flange is supposed to be the block is junk. There are no oversized thrust bearings.I’m sure you could have the surface machined and use some shim stock, but it’s not a 350 and this isn’t 65’.
I’ve used det cans myself, but in the current market individual cylinder knock control is available with good aftermarket ecu’s. Now if you can come in under ecmlink on pricing you could probably sell 50-100 units.
I never run aluminum, I’ve seen too many off them egg the bolt holes out and have bolts back out.My favorite setup is a competition clutch steel flywheel and a act2900 with a 4 puck. It can’t be to bad. I bet a guy at work he couldn’t drive my car across the parking lot. He got right in an...
While it’s not what I’d recommend in this case, I’ve put 100,000’s of miles on puck clutches in city traffic and every where else.They slip fine, you just have a very narrow window.I do recommend a puck or solid disk and heavy plate until you absolutely need a multi-disk.
It’s fairly easy to cut them out of sheets of shim stock.With the age of these transmissions and they way they get used I’d plan on replacing bearings for wear. If you wait for one to come apart it’s a total loss of all hard parts.
You don’t balance the flywheel with the crank and internals no matter what. Then if you replace the clutch you need to rip the engine apart.We’ve spun 11,000 rpm’s many times on untouched stock cranks. It’s an in-line 4, not a v engine. It’s a zero balance the crank, and as long as the rods...
Never balance a flex plate, flywheel, or damper with the bottom end. Then if you need a new one, you have to balance the whole engine again.An in-line 4 the crank is zero balanced. You can swap out rods and pistons, as long as they’re all matched in weight.
Make sure to open up the ring gaps enough. Butting rings cracking the piston are one of the issues with a bone stock engine you can fix.As mentioned a stock bottom end can handle a t28. The opened up gaps just save you from problems if you run a little lean from either pushing stock fueling...