Pulsar has the exact same nomenclature as the turbos they're copying, if I recall. Pulsar g30, 3584 etc. The local big name Evo guys has run them and loves them.
Those guys are clowns so of course their parts are incompatible and they didn't take that into account. Sorry I'm not able to help other than that. His response that your fab guy can fix it is effectively telling you they don't fit.
Every car will have a different offset based on where your CAS sits, but yeah it was something like 360. The 12-1 wheel does make a difference in your settings. You'll just have to pick the right trigger. I believe there is a dsm thread where a guy asks about the 12-1 wheel on those forums...
Be aware there is a no-start bug with Link ecu and the Kiggly 12t wheel. Check out the forums and check out my settings so that it doesn't give you a big headache.
There are only 4 things that it could really be:
1) Your wastegate setup can't bypass enough air for you to control boost--seems doubtful but I have no idea what your setup looks like
2) boost controller is bad
3) boost control lines are not installed correctly
4) Tune is setup incorrectlyGive...
Is it possible the battery is just low? I would start by looking at the headlight circuit and see if you can fix that. Check the fuses that powers it and the relay in the engine bay. A lot of these systems share the same power source so once you fix one the others will be good too...
I have poly-bushings on my 1g with feal coilovers and you definitely will have a harsher ride. It will feel nowhere near stock in my experience. Whether it will be too harsh just depends on you.
1) I wouldn’t use Innovate widebands. Ive used multiple Innovates and the sensors don’t last long. I’ve heard better reviews on the AEM X widebands or Ballanger.
2) if you're able to, run NB and wideband as the wideband senors tend to die frequently leaving you with a stranded car if simulating...
I would bet there is no difference. I also believe the fuse boxes uses connectors at the back as shown in the service manual so it should be an OK swap-out in difficulty. However, who knows if that will help; there might be melted wires in the harness.
As mentioned, take an angle grinder to the welds until the assembly comes apart. Buy bronze bushings, install them, and have it rewelded in correct position. The end.
DSMers are a strange lot. 99% of them comment all day about wanting the value of DSMs to go up. Also, 99% of them talk shit about any car asking over $6500 unless it's a top 0.1% DSM. Make up your mind.
I've never heard of this efi system. I looked for a Facebook group for Mircotech and couldn't find one. Usually, Facebook groups are really good for finding tuners/quick help.
Back in the day, when I was a kid, I just got my laser and put a bunch of mods on it, and it was slow as hell. Got beat by a NA 2g slow. It wound up being the fuel pump. Relaced the pump and started smoking everything in sight. So, it's possible it's a bad fuel pump etc and your fueling can't...
Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get carbide-tipped tile bits. They're super cheap and cut through steel like butter. Recently came across this revelation when tyring to extract a bolt out of my block and found a random post on the internet...
Hmm, are you asking about using a PDM with ecmlink? I'm not sure if that's possible because the ecu controls the PDM, I believe. I know you mentioned staying with ecmlink, but if you're going to be competing and using a PDM then a stand-alone would be a million times better while not being that...
Man, this car is f***ed up but that's ok. It's fun to fix stuff. The sensor you pictured is not the coolant temp sensor; that's actually used to turn on the /ac fan or something along those lines. As mentioned, get an oil pressure gauge with remote mount line from STM or extremepsi.com and...
Yeah that's probably it. Larger pumps draw a lot more amps and stress the stock wiring. You gotta do the whole relay rewire when putting in bigger pumps
Is there an idle ignition control active or is the isc placed in closed loop? Both of those will fight you when initially setting idle. Also, try the reversing polarity function.
If the fluid in the master is not draining when you're bleeding, then it's not being bled properly. I usually have to fill up the master twice when bleeding. Nothing scientific about doing twice just want to make sure all the fluid is free of bubbles. Perhaps you're not opening the bleeder valve...
When you say you can't control the motor, what is happening? Is the car not idling correctly or are you expecting to press a button in studio and watch isc move?
What specific wideband do you have? The switchpoint of 2.63v does make sense for the innovate widebands. Your isc needs to be set correctly along with a boost leak test.https://www.sixsigmatuning.com/dsm-idle-control
Both error codes have to do with TPS. It's possible the TPS is bad or the power wire is grounding out somehow? Have you adjusted the TPS in PCLink? It tales 2 seconds so look into it.
Not sure what to make of the clicks. First thing I'd do is check for 12v at the starter spade terminal. Thats what activated the starter. If you dont have voltage there when you turn the key to start then check out the starter relay. If you do have 12v on that starer signal wire then the starter...
Looks great. Really fun and easy to work on the cars when they're torn down this much. You really get to know the car and it's not as stressful having to fight everything that's in the way.
Most no-starts with security systems are due to the security system. Has the car even run under your ownership? Does it the clicking come from under the dash?
There's something wrong with your TPS or the wiring of the TPS because it goes haywire up to 89% and the rpm don't move indicating it's not real. It's possible the power is grounding out somehow. Save your wideband under pin assignments and capture it during logging.
MPI has been removed which has been a nightmare.I no longer have an MPI relay (big mistake). The ignition outputs are just moved around. I can send my settings if you need.
Probably a POS autozone starter or something. Best thing I ever bought was a high quality Bosch starter. Doesn’t matter if yours tests good. The starter is telling you it’s bad (assuming there isn’t some weird wiring/relay) issue.