Originally a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS Automatic car.
I believe throughout its life it was converted to Turbo/AWD/Manual Transmission.
I was told the shell had around ~65K Miles.I also have the convertible top related components.
I am not interested in selling any of that separate unless the...
I purchased these in the group buy on here a while back.
These are still brand new, never been assembled or installed.More Info:
http://farnorthracing.com/autocross/konis.html
http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=42960Spring Rates 700/350$1500 + Shipping...
Moving all my DSM inventory I’ve been hoarding for the last 10 years.Valve covers (Pictures Attached) $90
*$75 with cracked spark plug cover bolt holesUsed transfer case $100freshly powder coated black chrome 1G fuel rail $15New CXRacing same side intercooler (Pictures Attached) $70...
My latest project was building a custom speaker box.
I had a massive ported Kicker box with 2 X 10" CVRs.
It was crazy loud but took up my whole trunk.
I don't really care for having overpowered bass any more, so I decided to gut the trunk and put one under the back floor.
I drilled out the spot...
Since the last post, I have installed Outlander front brakes with Hawk Pads.
When I switched it to winter mode with the eclipse 5-Spoke wheels, the calipers barely clear:
I purchased something similar to the first set.
They work fantastic, especially when I am porting a few heads and don't want to spend a bunch of time double nutting all of the studs.
They work for both loosening and tightening studs.The only warning is, if you break off a stud flush in the...
Can you possibly help me to more acurately determine the manufacturer and model if this turbo with the following information?:
Compressor Wheel:
Inducer: 53.5mm
Exducer: 76mm
Turbine Wheel:
Inducer: 55mm
Exducer: 64mm
Markings:
Compressor wheel: 868
Compressor housing...
Are you sure the injectors on those cylinders aren't stuck open?
I also ran in to and issue recently where the diaphram in my AFPR went and was pushing fuel through the vacuum line flooding it.
However, that produced fouled plugs on all cylinders.
Which would require you to run a sealed catch can, rendering it useless until you have a vacuum source pulling through the can. The vacuum source would be preferably pre-turbo so it is always under vacuum, not just at idle.
Biggest thing when venting the can in your situation would be capping the port on the intake manifold. If you feel like the ports you have added to the valve cover allow sufficient crankcase relief than you can cap/delete the PCV. The more you vent the crankcase the better, so I would still put...
If he is running it as a sealed can. If it is open/filtered connecting vacuum source directly to the can would suck more unmetered air than he is now with the factory PCV configuration and an open catch can.
You wouldn't need to run the PCV (valve cover port) to a seperate can. All the ports...
Plug the port on the intake manifold.
I usually thread a barb in to the valve cover where the PCV was, and run a hose from that to the catch can.
But, I suppose you could just leave the PCV there and run a line from it to the can.
When you have a vented can, and still retain the PCV setup, it is going to suck unmetered air under vacuum.
You would need to plug the intake manifold fitting, and route the valve cover side of the PCV to your catch can.
The battery has been doing as good as I would have expected.
It does appear as though I do have a draw because it goes dead when the car sits for a couple weeks.
I still have yet to determine the cause, but I suspect either the viper remote start, or the audio system.
mnim15 updated Beater Build
View updates to this DSM profile...
Woah! I guess I haven't checked in here for a while.
Yeah, those will hopefully make their way on to the talon.
I needed to get the center holes machined to fit on our hubs.
Getting the coating off the wheels was ridiculous! I...
When this happens, one of the first signs I've seen is the piston skirt hitting mid-stroke (at the point of maximum rod angle) on the cylinder wall and leave scoring.
What BOV do you have?
Does it vent to atmosphere?
If so, make sure it is not opening at idle and sucking in unmetered air.
Might not be a bad idea to check the intake manifold and make sure nothing is leaking on that or where it meets the head.
You also said that you boost leak tested it. If...
Yeah the build kinda snowballed after I found that engine. My other build is based on a cleaner shell and I'm going to try and make a little more power and do some things differently. I fully intended to keep driving the car year round. Im debating if it would even be worth doing some body work...
Decided I might as well put an aluminium radiator in along with the silicon coolant hose kit.Upgraded some other miscellaneous things, SX AFPR, 1000CC Delphi injectors, Walbro 255, K&N fuel filter and FIPK, Synapse BOV etc...Trimmed the bumper and started getting the front end back together...
Getting the engine in to start finishing things up.Looks like the stock battery is not going to work.Intercooler piping install.Ended up using a battery from a Honda CRV.Picked up an eBay catch can.Mounted a power steering and oil cooler.
Next I pulled the motor and cleaned up the engine bay.I though I was going to be able to reuse the clutch that was in the car.
However, the rivets were giving out on the center section so I had that rebuilt locally and had the pressure plate and flywheel cleaned up.The swap was now pretty...
I had some Crower 272's and adjustable cam gears that went in. Also picked up a heat barrier for the intake manifold and new timing belt kit as well as ARP headstuds and Cometic MLS gasket. Ceramic coated the manifold and hot side before bolting everything up. Customized the coil bracket to bolt...
Forced Performance had the package deal on the 20G, so I picked that up and did a little more porting.I also picked up a used Magnus intake manifold and did some clean up on that.