I know that when my knock sensor goop all ran out my car began to run wierd eventually got my logger on and was getting like 31 or 39 counts of knock. I forget the max amount. Can you borrow a friends logger or anyone near you that may have one?*edit* it was pulling timing and it felt like...
i'm looking forward to it too, i hope it's up and running i found cracks in my timing belt (yikes) so i have to park her and do that. my holset build keeps getting pushed back :( oh well. It'll be fun to run
boost leaks
oil change
find coolant leak
exhaust manifold
lean at wot
passenger side wheel bearing
cv joint
passanger side tie rod
motor mounts
knock sensor
tcs
after all that finally put in holset
oh yeah messed up wiring
ball joint
finish exhaust
put dash back on
I've been meaning to look into manifolds i've had my holset sitting on my computer desk for almost a year now. I want to bolt it up with the 12cm^2 housing the punishment one sounds great. what kind of spool times are you seeing?
Man I just finished fixing my car today i didn't fix it in time for the cruise. Next time. I also have an extra 14b in my trunk i was thinking of changing mine out but i'll sell it if u want it.
That sounds like fun but i need to work from 10am-12 pm then return 2pm-5pm i might be able to meet you guys in old mesilla here in cruces. Also i'll shout you guys out on hot 103 txt me 575 805 06 05. Having afr problems with my car and it's ugly :(
Check it with an infrared sensor; it tells the surface temps, or feel it if one side is hot and one side is cool to the touch, the radiator isn't cooling properly. Feel the left side vs right side then top vs bottom. If it has "cool" spots or the heat isn't uniform across thats a sign of...
my air fuel ratios are very lea 16-17 while driving normally and at wot it's off the chart i haven't boosted or seen boost for some time now. I've checked my regulator still ok and o2 is ok post a log and video soon is my pump going out? i'm waiting to add my holset and safc once i fix this...
i would honestly buy the boost controller gauges and wait for the exhaust, or maybe also get a walbro or evo 9 if you can afford it just set yourself up for greatness. Don't forget the boost leak test
i forget which brand of mufflers does this, but they have a sound deading or dampening by bouncing the sound from the exhaust to one side then the other, and it cause compressor surge because it pushes the exhaust on it's self. Has anyone of you guys felt this, i know it's on one of the ones...
thats too much i'm looking for a shell can fix up i'm trying to get rid of a 1g fwd n/t block w turbo head and that way i'll have just 1fwd and hopefully an awd
does anyone know where i can find a cheap 1g awd with tranny going to sell my fwd for some loot i have motor i'm building just want the extra wheels for my holset
try fixing the line and teeing off of the wastegate and the fresh air hole exaclty where your bcs was connected. if you get leak between there the car runs like doo doo as you already know
I would say take the car out go drive down the strip and see what your times are and see if you're satisfied. You're probably already in 13's. Also do a blt might get you that extra umph you want. Also the 2g will let you meter more air:thumbs up:
The reason it doesn't pass inspection because when you clear the codes the one for evaporative is cleared and that one take quite a bit of driving before the evap reads what it should
there should be a t line right in front of the compressor housing and from the actuator one line goes there and the other goes to clean air nipple on the snorkel right after the maf. It should take the place of the boost soleniod
I'm just working according to the factory diagram, i've also heard that your boost spikes more often off of the bov and more accurate from the compressor cover. Most boosted cars are off of the compressor cover or j pipe even my holset hx 35 has the vac line on the cover.
i'm having the same problem with my 14b, i did blt, and made sure i'm not losing exhaust anywhere. The only difference is my af ratio are wild at times they are at time 10.8 and sometimes off the chart lean :(. interesting side note it almost seems if i launch from 1st my afr stay low how they...
the BOV should be straight to the intake mani, and your mbc should be right where the stock boost-solenoid is. That is 1 vac line to the intake tube and the other vac line to the j pipe that also T's off to the waste gate actuator
if you are missing water over the course of a couple of day it sounds like the water pump fill your car with coolant, then let it idle and see if it's dripping from the water pump oh keep an eye n the temp gauge too
Do you guys know if any of the vendors have dynos' of their parts? I get things from modern performance for the srt4 and they dyno a lot of the bolt on parts any ideas? I didn't know where to post this?
i just read through and saw a bunch of wild info. Widebands go from lean 8. to about 18. 18 being lean and the other way being rich. If your going to play with the cas, you have to ground the jumper and watch the harmonic balancer with a light gun to know what you're doing to your timing...