You can run 3 housings..stock holset, bep mitsubishi flanged or bep garrett flanged

I have a similar set up with a bep 70ar turbine housing with a manifold mounted tial 40mm wategate and i am also getting like 2-3lbs of boost creep due to the fact that i'm running low boost. It's hard to control the exhaust gases when running such a big turbo at low boost.

Remove spark plug, place long screwdriver in the hole, and turn crank until the screwdriver reaches it's highest point on number 1 cylinder.

My question is very simple. Are they identical turbos? Mine has the 7 blade compressor wheel. It came out of a automatic transmission equipped dodge ram. I'm just wondering if it's the same as the one from the manual transmission dodge ram.

I'm in the process of installing a hx35 in my dsm. The turbo i got came from a 2001 dodge ram with an auto transmission. I was wondering if it is the sane turbo as the one found in the manual transmission dodge ram.

That code is for evap solenoid failure.

Is it blue smoke or white smoke? Blue smoke indicates oil burning and white smoke indicates coolant being burned.

You should be able to get between 250-300@ wheels on pump gas depending on your boost level.

Stock throtlebody bored to 90mm? It's not possible to bore it out that much.

The ticking sounds like lifters to me. They do tend to quiet down once the engine warms up. Do you have good oil pressure? Is your oil clean? How manny miles on that engine?

It's called a butterfly valve actuator. Just make sure that it's that that it's leaking before you go any further.. It's black? Looks just like a wastegate? Correct?

It might be a problem locating that part here in the us. As that intake manifold only came equiped in cars over seas. The dsm's here never came equiped with that manifold.

If it's on the driver side than it could be the solenoid for the butterfly. You do have a cyclone intake manifold..Correct? If it's a cyclone intake manifold than it's got a solenoid to open the intake runners. That could be leaking.

I would guess it's your egr valve. A pic would help

The 1st minute when cold i have to hold the gas pedal but after that it's ok, but not great. It's not a steady idle. I'm trying to maintain it at 1200 rpm or so because i got cams. I guess it will never be steady.

Sounds as if you lost hydraulic pressure and the clutch stuck to the floor. Therefore gears will not go in. I would check your clutch hydraulic system for leaks.

I installed a Q45 throtlebody in my car. I hooked up the tps sensor but i cannot get the car to idle propertly due to the fact that it has no iac motor. Is there a way to install the stock iac motor in there? How do you guys get the cars to idle propertly? I do realize that the nissans have the...

Thats your pcv valve circled in red.

Most people run up to 20 psi or even more with stock sidemount. The problem is that it's so small that it has no cooling capacity. Within 10 seconds of boost it's heat soaked. We usually remove a fog light if equipped with it so we can get more air through it while driving at highway speeds.

I been running the non turbo throtlebody for about 4 years now. I did have to replace the seals two years ago, but have had no issues since than.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/99455-1g-gm-maft-install.html

You should remove the rubber boot, and try to heat up the guide and hit it a couple times with a hammer, and it should get loose again.

This is mine.

It all depends on what you will be tunning with. Manny people have ran 10s on 550cc injectors tunning with a vpc.

That is defenetly a knock off garrett turbocharger. I wouldn't buy it either. For $600.00 you can get a real garrett or turbonetics with a 1 year warranty. It is defenetly not worth risking it.

does the n/a block have the oil squirt rs like the turbo blocksNo, the non turbo block does not have oil squirters.

If he knows what he's doing than do it. But if i was to do it myself with the engine in the car i wouldn't do it. It's just too much of a pain in the ass. I did mine with the engine out of the car. And i did it because i was rebuilding the engine. If engine is running fine i would leave it...

I had read, (when I was searching) that the PT Turbo motor is different from a SRT-4? I suppose I was miss informed......I work for a chrysler, jeep, dodge dealer..The engines on pt cruisers and srt4 neons are identical except for the intake manifold and intercooler piping.

we've already addressed that he will be safe at that level, but if it creeps, it may be a different story. Did you do any porting,etc to eliminate any creep?Yes, i had the o2 housing ported. No boost creep at all.

I ran a 16g in my 1g with just a fuel pump upgrade for over a year at 9 psi boost pressure straight off the wastegate. Never had any issues. A 16g at 9-12 psi doesn't flow much more than a 14b. You should be fine.

It will not work. The 3 bolt axles are different from the 4 bolt axles. 4 bolt axles are thicker in diameter, spline is different in the differential.

The 2.4 in the pt cruiser is the same exact motor as the neon srt4. Neon and pt cruiser is the same exact car, suspension, drivetrain. Only difference is the body, and couple other minor things, like the intake manifold. And no it is not a 420a motor. So most likely it will not fit.

The oil pickup tubes are identical.

Yes it can. It's kind of hard, but it's possible, but it can be done.

With the car shut off and just the key on is not going to give you an accurate reading. The car needs to be running.

Hope this will help you out.

I did mine. Wasn't too hard. I loosened the belts, removed the carnk pulley, and moved the timing lower cover back just enough so i can get to the bolts that are behind it.

Check this out. They expalin it really what it is and what it does. Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install

Defenetly sounds like the timing belt skipped and bent all your valves. It's very hard to have all piston rings bad.

Seems like a good deal to me. Your going to a 1g head or 2g head?

Pictures are kind of small. But it looks good. And it does flow alot..

That's a bad ass turbo man.. Their very reliable and you can make a ton of power with it.

Gst? gsx? how manny miles? how much?

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Could be a bad ecu. If you have 1 laying around i would swap it over and see what happens. But could also be something else electrical, like a bad cas, coil pack, rersistor e.t.c....

If it's timmed, it's getting spark, than i would check to see if it's getting fuel.

When my temp. sensor went bad it did not turn on the check engine light. But it will make your car run rough, rich, sputter, and cut out. What it does is, it leaves the ecu in open loop, which means it's working in cold operation mode and it just dumps alot of fuel.

Fp green would be better for you probably. It's cheaper also. You can get a fp green for about 1200-1300. It can support 500hp, bolts right onto your stock o2 housing and stock manifold. Spools much faster than the gt30 which makes it a more streetable car. You should get full boost by...

You have to check the code with a scanner and go from there. I don't think the cover will have anything to do with the light.

The main bearings top and bottom piece are different. But i believe the rod bearings are identical top and bottom piece.