Mahle

I wouldn't shorten the intake guides much. I especially wouldn't make them flush with the roof, if the roof is ported... they're already quite a bit shorter than the exhaust guides. Exhaust valve guides can be shortened successfully.I'm a "better safe than sorry" person and rather use...

from my perspective (from the evidence in the link, thanks defiant), our heads put too much lateral force on a solid lifter.... I think solid lifters could be useful if the rockers were re-engineered, and same with the available solid lifters.I'm not sure we have much use for them since we...

what's the solution? BSE? Thicker oil? What?

Grip Tite 17 pc. Super Sockets Rounded Bolt Remover, Metric - Model 00133 at Sears.comCraftsman Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set - Model 52160 at Kmart.com:rocks:

if you're going to buy a new tool, why not buy the right one and make it easy?you can also buy them one socket at a time, or as a wrench.... a whole set can be had for as little as $20

someone bought me a Gator Grip as a gift, and I broke it the second time I used it (pins fell out). Products like that are really made for housewives that can't figure out bolt sizes.There are special sockets for stripped nuts. Sears should have showed them to you.

some people consider 8.5:1 compression ratio to be "perfect" for turbo... especially people who are converting.... others have to deal with whatever they can afford.

lol, I don't have any... I really don't have much knowledge about aluminum rods. Personally, I'd stick to steel for the purpose they serve, but I'm consistantly amazed with what aluminum is being used for and it doesn't suprise me that it could be used for DD rods.

well what I was talking about was knife-edging and/or lightening the crank... you won't save 7 pounds doing it (probably 1-3 pounds).I've read FFWD Connection's theories before, and they don't hold water. First off, extreme lightening of the crank (especially butchering) will always weaken...

damn that's exactly 2 pounds:cool:... that's a lot.what about the crank, what are you using for a crank? taking 112 grams off per cylinder on a forged crank would save you 1 more pound... if the total wieght reduction is 224grams/cylinder on the crank you would have a 4 pound reduction...

No those are the right cams. 101-200-8 is for the set101-201-8I Intake101-202-8E Exhaust

how much you want for em?

yup:thumb: Your example also explains why a lighter (and stronger) crank is optimal in a stroker.Those rods would have to be ENORMOUS OMG

well said.A lot of people forget about rod ratio... another ingredient in damaging your engine at high rpm. The force from the power stroke cares very little about the weight underneath the piston and the angle of the rod can scuff cylinder walls, bend rods and break rod caps/bolts. Of...

how about titanium connecting rods?Crower Cams & Equipment - Mitsubishi - Connecting Rods (read fine print, $477/rod for titanium)Introducing Pauter Titanium RodsI agree that with today's available grades of aluminum and forging techniques, that aluminum can be used effectively for...

Royal Purple or Mobil1, and Mobil1 is reasonably priced at Hellmart.Castrol GTX high mileage if you insist on conventionalwill be using this soon:still wondering when this 10w-60 will come to the states (without buying it at the BMW stealership):will probably stick to...

nobody would have said anything if I used a butt connector... and I explained why I didn't in the first post.... Thank you for being civil:thumb:You know, come to think of it... I think I'm going to skip the relay. Partly because I don't want to hack it up (adding shit, that doesn't come...

maybe I wasn't very clear. Let's see how many times I mentioned it...Very first post:and all the othershow many times do I have to say it?The reason I didn't just wire in the relay right then and there (believe me, it was tempting) is because I'm a little bit of a...

because 1. I always use a standard relay harness (which has clip-in spade connectors already inside it) and I use solder on all the wires... 2. the fuel pump wire will also be female (with a built-in clip)... and 3. there's no need to jump the gun. This will do just fine until then. I like...

I'm sorry to point out that you're wrong...that black/white wire is giving direct power to the fuel pump.It's possible that you missed the point. The reason that connector is there is so that I can eventually solder in a wire off a relay... which I won't be ready to do until I get some...

stock springs are thick on 4g63's... but I doubt yours are stock, considering it looks like you have titanium spring retainers.

it's true that thinner oils give you more power... but with everything there is a sacrifice... if you're running big power, then you need more protection... This is why 1000hp drag racers are running SAE 60.The additional tensile stress on the engine parts is minimal in comparison to the...

you're definitely going to have some warm-up piston slap with .006"

Yeah that's exactly what it sounds like... can't really hear anythying else

^this is the proper way to break in an engine...Use SAE30 or any other non-detergent oilNever use a synthetic or Castrol GTX for the break-in period... the rings won't seal right because they lubricate too well. This is a proven fact so don't fight it.After break-in, the thickest oil...

Not true unless the engine is knocking... which is highly likely with 13:1. Knock will severely shorten the lifespan of any engine.N/t is fun... but I'm not fond of Japanese n/t power. Yeah yeah I know Honduhs are great and all, but I'm sick and tired of looking at them, and 95% of them are...

might as well go 12:1 and run premium gasoline, run 272's or larger with cam gears (to adjust for n/a), then lighten up the crank and flywheel and tune the fuel.. I don't want to "bench race" but that would bring you somewhere between 140-155whpYou can go 13:1 if your gas station sells 93...

I know what it takes to get a naturally aspirated 2L 16v, that has 130hp (@ 117whp) stock, to have 190whp... and the answer is lots of money and lots of time.Since he's asking the question here, I highly doubt the OP will spend what it takes to get beyond 160whp (a difficult number to go...

This has been covered a million times.... if it says "GL-5" anywhere on the bottle, then it's GL-5You need to find one that only says "GL-4" on the back. If you use synthetic you won't have to change it every 10k miles.Redline, Amsoil, are two of the companies that make synthetics that...

$800?Ground Control with Bilstein Sports will cost you that much.... That combo is a sure shot for autocrossing and the quality is top-notch.... If you have $200 more to spend, you can combine the GC's with Koni Yellows.Megan makes a coilover setup for about $900

Just find a long sharp curve... go into it hard and try to accelerate out of it full throttle. The engine will shut off for about 1 1/2 secondsOh yeah... this only applies when you're below a 1/4 tank, and turning left. You can avoid it also by keeping the tank 1/2 full. But if you're...

You will have to overcome the 1g AWD problem of stalling around sharp left turns.I would run two pumps with a small fuel reservoir between them. Or, you can modify the gas tank. There are other solutions but i think the fuel reservoir is the most effective.

I hate being wrong:coy:sorry about the bad info :coy:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/stroker-tech/265190-considering-2-2-a.htmlthe 4G37 (1.8L) has 153mm rods... don't know if the bearing journals are the same, but worth looking in to.TOMEI Connecting Rods

So they are... hmmm... you can just get some from Tomei... they're only 3mm shorter. Eagle also knows where to get 31.65mm height pistons. Look around they're available. I know Mahle won't do custom... but I know everyone else does and it's usually only $75 more for the set. I would call Wiseco...

I like Manley products

The Answer Is Simple... but a good question...you just use regular stroker pistons with the 4g63 rodsor you can use regular 4g63 pistons with the stroker rods, but I don't recommend this since the rod ratio is not as good.hopefully you can see the small print

Yeah I mostly agree with this. It's just that I've seen head gasket problems solved simply by re-torquing the ARP's... so there's a good chance you could get a good seal especially if you go the extra step and clean the surfaces. Of course, I agree it's not the right way and it's likely that it...

Yeah on a DSM... but I meant non-mitsubishi's. I know other cars have them too, but most that I've seen made around 1990 have either a timing chain or a solid timing tensioner.

no not reallyA lot of people don't realize how much smoother it is after a rough cut. It's much much smoother although it doesn't always look that way.It probably isn't worth the time... but most people actually go back and do a uniform rough finish after their final cuts. This is...

no I'm saying I made those intake ports a little rough. I did it only for pictures to avoid confusion, but the camera sucks dick, and I still haven't purchased a new one. The intake ports were polished very smooth shortly after that photo, so any further documentation will have the added...

Bad lighting... It's still barely "rough to touch" even though I don't believe in it. I just did it so no one would cry "why didn't you leave it rough?" The rough surface was lightly cleaned with a polishing buff, then coated in oil, so it is a little on the shiny side.

aka "short turn radius"... In my opinion, for a 16V head, the 4g63 intake ports are very nice and need very little work when it comes to the curve.from wikipediaYou don't need a flow bench... just a good way to measure and a little patiencebtw the short side is technically the...

I'll give you $1000 if you get 185whp out of a n/a 4g63You're going to max out at about 165whp with major modifications. You might be special and get 175 to the wheels. You could go with ITB's to get above 200, but at that price you might as well go turbo.

I think the previous owner used ARP's and you probably need to retorque the head... but you'll have to remove it and clean the surfaces firstIf you do find ARP's, and the HG isn't melted, warped, or pitted, I recommend re-using the HG and use some spray copper gasket

Does your oil wreak of gasoline?those numbers are too low if this was done by turning over the engine... I believe the test was done wrong if your oil smells fine

$160 at the machine shop for: polished crank pressed wrist pins bored and honed 86mm (matched to pistons 0.002" over) I think most people would have to spend more than that$80 shipped for ACL race bearings$400 shipped for 86mm Mahle pistons and rings$17 shipped for BSE kit from...

Here's what you can do if you're feeling feisty... Even though the work performed in this photo is about a stage 2 or 3... the end result I would call stage IVsorry about the crappy photo. It's easier to see what I'm talking about on the left side

I just get rid of the aluminum around the guides on the exhaust side... in terms of turbulence, the pluses outwiegh the minuses