Same thing happened to me. My o-ring didn't look damaged, but I just replaced it. When putting everything back together, I just made sure I put extra pressure on the t-stat housing to the water pipe when tightening everything up.
Good call on the punishment downpipe. I had both and my megan"s flex section collapsed after a year and a half. Punishment still is performing awesome.
I've had the xtd stage 4 for close to 8000 miles. I have no complaints about it at all for the price. It was a little different to get used to, but after driving a day or so I was fine
When I put my green on I could not boost past 12 because my Megan downpipe's flex section collapsed. I'm not sure if that's the problem here though. I'd imagine he could at least boost a little. Take your downpipe off and go for a quick drive but make sure you watch your boost gauge closely...
Cast will usually last longer. Good tubular manifolds are expensive too. If the cars just going to be a daily, just get the fp. I have the fp manifold and its great. The only regret is not getting it ceramic coated to keep the underhood temps down.
To mount my vrsf front mount, I just used the supplied bolts and drilled the foglight holes out. It would have been easier to buy the right size bolts though.
I would buy a 20g off of forced perforamce. Then you would need a turbine housing to match the stock manifold. Another idea is when you can use the classifieds buy a used 20g, fp green or Hx35. It's going to be very hard to get 400 out of a 16g if e-85 isn't available.
What products do you guys use to clean your interior. My carpet under the driver seat has brake fluid stained in it from a leaking clutch master clyinder and my seats have some gresse stains on them. I have cloth interior, so any advice on what products to buy and tips to clean it would be awesome.
I just recently put an "older style" Fp green on. I am running an external tial 38mm with a 14lb spring off of the 02. My problem is I can not seem to boost over 12psi even with my boost controller turned up(brand new Hallman). I boost leak tested it to 15psi and fix the leaks at the BOV gasket...
Well if you are positive your cam angle sensor is correct, I'd check for dtc's and hopefully of you have any it can lead you in the direction of the problem
Well a little update. I pulled the thermostat housing off and the o-ring isn't ripped or anything, but I'm sure its the stock one. I unbolted the downpipe to o2 bolts and loosened the manifold to turbo bolts to get the turbo off the water pipe to see if when the turbo is tight if it moves the...
I just looped them. At first, I thought it was the turbo lines but I shut the car off and looked at them first. I squeezed the radiator hose and seen it was coming from the waterpipe in the thermostat housing. I can feel where its coming out right where it connects to the thermostat housing.
My turbo is only oil cooled. I'm going to remove the thermostat housing and unbolt and waterpipe from the block and hopefully ill get enough room for the o-ring to line up. I never have done this before so I wanted to get a little insight so thank you. It was such a bummer starting the car and...
So after installing my Fp green I started my car and the waterpipe is leaking at the thermostat housing. I'm guessing I knocked the o-ring out of place when denting the pipe. My question is, What is the easiest way to go about fixing the leak? I've seen that its either I pull the thermostat...
3kgt2nv Do you know why cars have codes? It is for emission reasons. A flashing one is a more serious one which will damage the catalytic converter more than a normal code would. A flashing indicats multiple cylinder misfires. OP have you tried to get your car scanned for codes?
A flashing CEL usual means that the car is misfiring and damage to the catalytic converter will happen. Does it do this often or was this a one time thing?
Get some good protein and like LiquidX said go to bodybuilding.com. There is alot of helpful information on there about workouts to meet what goals you are trying to reach.
Yes you would use everything besides the j pipe from the install kit bit like ninharu said the jpipe from Vrsf is very hard to get a wrench or anything around it to tighten the bolts because of how it is bent. I bought Allen head and had to grind down the Allen wrench until it was little enough...
When you do to a tech school all you here is shit talking about Dsms. You can't pull you're car in the shop without someone saying something about crankwalk or whatever else.
My favorite would probably have to be rockstar, but I tried this energy drink called Endorush and it was really good. It was expensive and its made by the people that make N.O. Xplode and damn does it give you energy.
ebay intercoolers are ok. Theres a k20 civic running one with no problems at alll. It is about 300 at the wheels. But I would do what boostedphionex said. I would just go with a sfmu to start then slowly got more into it like a bulit engine and megasquirt. I had a 420a eclipse and built a engine...
I connected the gauge and lc-1 both to the sunroof fuse and the gauge came on without the ignition on. I moved them both to the cig lighter and it does not come on til the ignition and I am not getting any codes for low voltage and the wideband works so hopefully this fixes it. I'll find out by...