i am looking into this now ant it seems that the only perfect turbo for the t-25 is the t-28. Because all the other like 16G, 20G whatever you need a them install kit for like 300 bucks HELL NO!!!!!!what are other good aforable turbo for 2g that dont need installation kit.

i just bought gm siyncromesh for transmission on my 2g awd and think of doing the tranfer case too but but dont know if the syncromesh is good alsowhat you people use for the transfer case??

Iam thinking in getting a evo fmic for my ride have anybody try this already, will it fit easyli or there is a lot of cutting and relocating involved do you people now a respectable shop that makes custom IC pipes for it at a good price?

Around every month or 2 months I have to fill out the clutch rservoir because it dries out. I noticed when my car scary enought wont shit into gear while driving. I recently took out the Slave cylinder thinking that was the problem but I dont know what Im looking for. How is a non-working slave...

When I took the SC out I remove the boot and it was pretty dry on the inside. I think the SC was working good and I just screw it up.

Around every month or 2 months I have to fill out the clutch rservoir because it dries out. I noticed when my car scary enought wont shit into gear while driving. I recently took out the Slave cylinder thinking that was the problem but I dont know what Im looking for. How is a non-working slave...

what about if the rim has those pre installed balance weights. How is the wheel supposed to be balanced. the shop always tell that those rims dont need to be balanced.

I going to try alignment see what happens, even though the car dont steer to the side while driven. But that doesnt explain the steering wheel vibration.

Ok. I think it might be something different them because I can boost at 7k RPm and is fine. But once the needle hits 80 mph the shaking starts.

I have exactly the same problem. I think is something major like the axles or something because once i pass 80 the vibration also transmits to the steering wheel. The vibration is mostly in the front in my case. any additional help.Thanks

I was thinking maybe the 02 sensor is going bad, how can you inspect the o2 sensor to check it is condition?

What about the Koni red? Will they rebound dampening effect give me a non bouncy ride on H&R springs

what else could it be??

I have this springs along with tokico blues, is a little bouncy for my taste but way better than when i had my stock springs.I heard that koni yellows are good but they expensive. Iwas looking into tokico illuminas but coulnt find much. Anyone has experiences with the HR and the illuminas?

what do you mean with shelding?Is that the black thing , over the wires

After letting my car sit for 1 month during vacation this error came up, i scanned and says to be a o2 sensor heater malfunction or something of that nature. Has anybody had this code before and solve the problem? BTW i had replace front and rear 02 sensors since i buy the car.

i have not even started, changing studs is a hardcore mission you have to take out the exhaust manifold, maybe the turbo. I dont think is that easy.

I dont know nothing about the sizes of the stud. I took a nut from my current stud and put it in the new ones and it screw in perfectly? Im just in doubt

the thing is that a bought this 1g studs from ebay. Did i just got the wrong stuff or they work as well?

the thing is that a bought this 1g studs from ebay. Did i just got the wrong stuff or they work as well?

I try to put one of the new studs on the hole of the missing one and it didnt screw in? I think part of the old one still inside where can i get one of those hela kits or the other thing at?Also does turbo 1g and 2g used the same exhaust studs??

I got new ones, i doubt vice grips will take it out but i try that anyway. What about when installing the new ones what kind of silicon or glue needs to be use in the threds going inside the block.

That wont work , there is no space for 2 nuts on the stud

Since i missing one of the studs and the other onres are rusty decided to put new ones. But how are you suppose to take the old ones out from the block?? Anyones have done this before and can help?Thanks

i solved the stupid mystery it was the new terminals i put in the battery. They were color coated to avoid corrosion, but the stupid company coated the part where you bolt the car negative ground cables. I got stuck in traffic like a dumbass when i realized this crap.

It doesnt make sense because you jupstart with a weak or bad battery, my battery is brand new?

i already check, the only suspicion i has was the ignition fusible link, but still the is no power in the whole car. No amber lights not even the annoying beep when the door open.

It started when i was installing a new negative battery terminal. I read somewhere that if you put vaseline in the terminal it will help corrosion so i did that. When i went to turn on the car with the door open is was doing the beep beep sound and the amber light were on everything normal. I...

yeah but how much they should be cut for my application? and it should be cut from the bootom or the top of the bumpstop

I already got this installed along woth tokico blues and camber kits on my car to get rid of the bounciness. The drop is 1.7 front and 1.4 in the back. It bounces a little bit less but still is not as solid as my 1999 Saturn stock suspension. I have read all this bumpstop cutting iim pretty sure...

I installed a Joe E-MBC in my car and im getting CEL P1104 a wastegate malfunction thing whatever. The thing is that this started happening when i disconnected the wastegate solenoid. Aint you suppose to disconnect it after a installing a boost controller? :confused:

i got no idea what is a jounce bumper, i would return them to tokico but i dont have the receipt. So Im screw but every shit like this is always a learning experience.I will NEVER buy something from tokico again, they SUCK i dont care how long they been in bussines or if they put their...

they were installed on a proffessional suspension shop, i got some experience with them before. The only thing i think of is that i got done the lower ball joint recall, after the installation of shock but dont know if that got something to do with the bounce effect?

i got a 96 gsx with stock springs and tokico blues and im bouncil all over the place. I cannot exceed 80 MPH cause the car is likely to lose control easily. IM thinking is the POS tokico blues any idea what can be done to correct this. I thought on coilover but i read it wouldnt make much...

i have a similar issue i had a HKS turbo timer installed working fine then yesterday, my car got installed a remote door lock and enginge starter kit, and they TT doens work anymore it makes the beep noise but no display.any help on this

i turned it clockwise and it drop the pedal but still has a really sensitive engament, at least is better than before

My tranny went out adn spew all its fluid, so new syncros for 1 and 2 and a ACT streetlite along with 6 puck sprung clutch, 2100 PP was installed. WHen i drove it the engagement like most dsm is right at the carper, right now is all the way at the top of the pedal which is uncomrtable and hard...

MY bellhousing suffer a slit cut on the bottom no thicker than a penny, something small broke inside yet dont know what? The tranny shop that has it is gonna charge me $600 labor is a 96AWD Talon plus parts is that a decent prize?? I never deal with a tranny shop before no sure what to expect...

First i know the ball joints are upgraded i didnt break it down the right way. But still i have never got the ball joints done. Second my t-case was replaced like 3months ago for the second time so the computer says and it broke and almost cause an accident they say they will check and if is...

No is not!!! What are you talking about this i s a beaten up subject. This is above the dealer comes from NHTSA T-case, ball joint and fuel tank are for life.Althought i heard the ball joint part is upgraded.You are not really knowledgeable for beein a wiseman. You a N/T what do u know...

Right now my car got low voltage i pop the hood and find the alternator belo 100% loose just hanging from the pulleys, first the Ac a week later this, WTF how do i tight the belt like for right now?

Did the illnes pass to any of the other belts or just the AC? That why you must use timing belt covers!!

I heard even when the ac is not in use it robs power is that true? Also how do u check the harmonic balancer that sounds like a lot of job.

Like title says. i turn my car on and strong belt noise can be heard also burnt belt smell, turn on the ac no cold air,look in the engine the belt is all worn out about to brake then i drive with no air and the belt just broke. But how can the belt borke with the compressor is not in use...

well the screw is 100% stripped, so i guess i will never get to upgrade my fuel system,anybody interested in buying a brand new walbro 190lph fuel pump kit.

I have readf several ppst saying installation is a breeze, when putting a walbro in tank pump, HELL NOOOOOO i have done a lot of mechanil jobs in my car and it will easier to rebuild the whole engine, all because the little screw will not come off i use pliers like vfaq says nothing happen then...