3K here for 95 converted to 97. drivin hard for 6 years. 95 gsx 120k on car 12k on motor, which was immediately beefed. :hellyeah: only thing wrong with it to this day is leaking d/s axle seal to be done this weekend.

the 719710 is the d/s seal i know that... doing mine today or tomorrow.

was this issue ever resolved? and what was it?

#1, im going with the oil from valve cover.

i couldnt help but notice its actual profile, did you convert your fan to a metal bladed fan? otherwise its gonna melt that bad boy! :p

Also says i'm glad its N/A because 2 bald tires are better than 4! :hellyeah:just looked at my tires while i was on the lift.... 4 totally bald Nitto Invo's (225 30 zr 18) thats gonna cost more than i paid for the car.

I drive my LS1 Trans Am as a commuter 50 miles a day, keep my DSM in the garage because its a weekent warrior as i have to work on it every time i go to the track and its nice to have on the weekend as its clean as hell. by clean i mean SPOTLESS! well my buddy at work his car broke down and he...

ok its a 98 this means you have a shiney aluminum strut tower brace, make sure your positive battery terminal isnt grounding out on that first of all.... check all of your boost routing (turbo outlet all the way to the intake inlet) then check all metered air sections of the turbo inlet. ANY air...

Details are needed. what turbo how much boost whats your fuel pressure at any supporting mods any tune?

^ +1, that being said.... thats alot of oil on there! finger that out asap.lol! good thing that didd'nt give you an explosive surprise! next time ask, get answers then plug it in. ive been KO'd by an airbag doing the same thing... airbag deploy when not actually in an accedent and not...

:sneaky:yes, but a "good" isc can be hindered by chunks of carbon build-up...

ya wut he saidrofl

easy things first, set your BISS down to where the low part of your idle is at about 790-850rpm at operating temp. shut the car down remove your idle control valve (isc) it is a 2 screw attatchment just under your throttle body and inspect it for damage/carbon deposits. have an assistant turn...

mark [resolved] fixed it same day, just had to locate the leak, there was 2, isc was falling out and there was a crack in the flange for the greddy-s:thumb:

knock on wood.... 38,400 miles on this build, this is the first issue ive had. Aside from the nametag incedent....ROFLhttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/336873-pics-come-looky.html

Last thing you want to do is just throw parts at it, you must find out what the problem is, all this guessing is just going to cost you money and time. do the research and see what that pump should be pushing from the nipple, then what your FPR should be set at with your injector size and...

lol dont waste your time or money, they most likely have more of both to waste winning the argument, just ask for a discount and deal with it :thumb:

that could be a number of things, is that 20psi before the FPR or after?

I uhh just got confused... did you say rsx? lol....honda parts dont go on dsm, dsm parts go on honda..:banghead:

STOCK EMBLEM+RED CONSPICUITY TAPE+ CLEARCOAT= OMG REFLECTIVE SNAKESKIN EMBLEM!:hellyeah:and yes, those are zip ties, i still havent found the shrouds to finish my front end =( still need the inner wheel wells also.:cry:

how bad is the idle when it is actually running? sounds like you may have a HUGE vacuum leak, injector problem, fuel pump problem, ignition problem, or more than one of the above. need more info.:banghead:

mine randomly drops to 0% on my safc also, dosnt change how the car is running at all though, its possable that the plug itself is worn out, thats what i found was my problem, it just rattles to the point where theres no decent connection. have you visually inspected the tps?

:plOl'S at the guy above him.

hmmm, have you tried testing it when someone is putting their foot on the gas? you will get a 0% reading unless someone depresses the pedal, at least thats how it is on my 2g. no power anywhere untill that pedal is pressed. then again, my car runs just fine w/o it even plugged in...lol :hmm:

check your big 3 first. SPARK- AIR- FUEL-after doing this post your results please, i am interested in helping.:thumb:] *-edit by that i ment a consistant flow of all 3.

has a N/T for trade :confused:

I've ever only seen 1 other actually modded dsm in my area, that was last weekend was a black 1g down pac ave around 72nd. but yes deffinattely should hook up.:hellyeah:

I can honestly say its just shooting in the dark, also i allways start with easiest check on the list, wich would be the pedal.:hellyeah: when i got my clutch done i had the same problem only when the car was warmed up though, yours is obviously way out of adjustment.:ohdamn:

i would actually +1 that also.HERES WHAT I GOT FOR YA...:thumb:HOPE THAT HELPS BROSKI. :thumb:

Right on! i'm just off 84th and Pacific ave!:hellyeah:

Welcome to DSMTUNERS.COM. Hopefully you can fufill your informational needs in 1 stop, as i do regularly. :rocks:

if you do that and post me the pic ill use it as her wall paper on her laptop!:hellyeah:

16g is bigger ROFL

LOL! my daughter would LOVE it..just put some tinkerbell stickers on the valve cover. awesome!:thumb:

[RESOLVED] the I.S.C was loose on the TB leaking vacuum like a mofo...dont ask me how.:tease:

if your leaking alot of vacuum it will deff run like that. do you have a vaccum gauge you can hook to it? would test that first. im tellin you thats exactly what my car did when the LICP popped off on the freeway i thaught i blew something up for sure, it was HELLA loud.but the dowels are...

Theres a little screw shaft on the backside of your clutch pedal start turning that in increments untill you get it adjusted corrected, chances are your old clutch was autoadjusted so far back that now when you push the clutch in it dosn't even go far enough to move the clutch.*the...

mine did the exact same thing when my lower intercooler pipe blew off.... check all your pipes, sounds alot like a vacuum leak thats about 2.5-3" diameter lol.... if thats not it, make sure your timing isnt 180° out. (Dowls at 12 o'clock on camgears @ TDC is where you wanna be) :confused:

Sounds like your timing is getting pulled at WOT, i would suspect your pushing too much boost and or not enough fuel. :nono:As far as a boost leak is concerned there would be other symptoms, low HG on idle for example, if you have an EBC with a digital readout for boost/vaccume you should...

you can invite him over for an asswhoopin.:tease: if you have a contract or reciept for "AS IS" he cannot do anything. Without this documentation he CAN in fact take you to small claims, kinda like judge judy, but he will have to provide a good suit against you to win his case.

yea, actually i was not seeing anyone when i decided she wasnt my drug of choice, but currently i am seeing my uroligist lol..... boost leak testing time i guess, thanks.:hellyeah:

never use a "used" isc from a DSM, since they are natoriously pieces of crap from the factory, just order yourself a new one. even if you get movement from your old one if it dosn't operate 100% correctly you will have idle issues. replace it with one that shines.:thumb:

1. 98GSXin 2. Kidtsi 3.DSM_munky_man 4.turbotalon31 5.NeMiZiS 6. 2gdanny 7. Black_gst 8. pbwu1f 9. jusmx141 10. TJCtalon 11. LiquidZ28 12. etc...

So basically about a week ago i went out and started up the car and let it idle for about 13-15 mins while i was getting ready for work and tending to my sick girlfriend, when i went out to go to work it was ideling like someone popped the hood and tossed some 272's in there, and has sounded and...

right on :rocks: congrats!

:banghead:that loose positive could have been your problem from the get.... should have been your first objective is to check terminals for damage, tightness... i had charging issues about 4 months ago, i knew i needed a new battery so i got one anyways, mine tested to have a bad cell or...

lol i think they all shake/rattle in 5th going under 40mph...its the gearing, if your ratio's are stock 5th is WAY to tall for under 40...i actually keep my revs above 2000 when driving, unless your going downhill, theres no reason to be in such a high gear at such a low speed, its actually...

too bad you cant retrofit an alt from a 97+ z28 (that has all power options) mines at 179,000 original miles and that bad boy is still goin strong lol...if i could only get my lt1 stroker under the hood of my awd dsm....;p:hellyeah: all the parts from shucks/oriely are lifetime warrenty also...

no, not stock, they are projectors from Anzousa, one of my vendors...i only like them for the perfect hid cutoff :thumb:

ya? couldnt have just said..hmm ya the TC has 160ish stock hp... its ok tho, i forgive you :thumb: this thread is beat to shit...