Well...I picked up one of these turbos...I was thinking...if you have a SD car and MAP isnt the best option...what about a backpressure sensor...install a MAP sensor on the exhaust side and use a reading from that to control the vanes...this way.you could fool the ECU into thinking the engine...

I use megasquirt these days. I suppose I can add a MAF back into the system if I have to purely for the ability to usethis turbo(MS does now have a MAF option)anyway...just hoping for an update on the controller

Just wondering what the status on this project is. I have been eyeing one of these turbos for awhile now. As far as the contoller goes can it run off an external MAF signal? My car is SD and the ecu doesnt use MAF...but I suppose its really just a 0-5v potentiometer right?

Well, I have had a few DSMs before...heck, I have one now...but I am looking for a 1st gen DSM preferrably 6 bolt...but I dont care that much if its not, I prefer one that is only mildly modified or better yet, stock, I just dont want one beat to death, I need AWD, with tranny and x-fer case in...

just wondering how much resistance the balance shaft should give when I turn it...i recently replaced the hea gasket on my 92 GS NT 46g3..and while I was thinking about eliminating the thing...its really just a daily driver and I might as well keep the belt in there, not worried about it...

ok, so just to review..gaskets/seals to repace while I have it apart...head set(for head gasket stuff, all upper gaskets) front main seal, oil pump seal, RTV on the tensioner bolts...anything else on the front end? I have new balance shaft and timing belts, head is getting re-surfaced, valve...

OK, not a newbie, but didnt want to post this anywhere more specific, the car is a 92 Eclipse GS DOHC 2.0L non turbo 4g63 engine...I pulled the head off the car today to replace the had gasket and find and fix a strange oil leak(it wasnt leaking from the head gasket) its the front timing cover...

heh, I'm pretty sure that its still simpler than the headache of putting a 4.6L into a vintage mustang, just out of curiosity though...what are the main issues? rear end, tranny, transfer case...shouldnt it all bolt in? or will my welder get a lot more use?

well, I used to be a member here quite awhile back...seven years or so...used to have a couple NT DSMs, which I liked...and I ended up with yet another...the main difference being that back then I couldnt work on cars worth anything...I have since built several turbo neons(2.4L versions of the...

heres a picture of the finished product....I ended up cutting most of the barb off, and blocking the remainder with a screw...which actually seals tight oddly enough....then drilling and tapping the top....the top dented just slightly in the press...which worst case may make for a very slight...

its actually a '98 neon R/T with a SRT-4 engine swap....so drilling the top should be safe then? I was hoping to redrill the one already there just so I wouldnt have to worry about blocking it off(I suppose I could cut the barb halfway off and use one of my dies to thread the remainder...though...

I am using a 1gen DSM BOV for another application....heres a picture of what I have(forgive the bad flaking paint, etc, I'll be repainting it all correctly before I am through here) My question is for the hose barb on the BOV...I am upgrading my vacuum lines and replacing all barbs with...

you just need an 02 or older 2.4L block to bolt your head onto(I have done several 2.4L swaps in my neon, but never in a 420A eclipse) and a passenger side motor mount adapter...and depending on what 2.4 you get, a UDP pulley is required with the older JA oiling system, with a PT oiling system...

well, I recently got a 91 Eagle Talon TSI rolling shell with a 1g AWD tranny and a 2g 7 bolt motor...my plans for the motor are to run it off a standalone(MegaSquirt) with custom wiring so the wiring in no way concerns me, but my question is while I have this 7 bolt out of the car(this engine...

yes, MS is a fuel computer by nature and has to use extra circuits in order to run Spark, like EDIS-4 as I use in my neon, or the MSNS Extra code for the DSM optical sensor as I plan on running in my talon

well, I had a somewhat similar problem, my 20g wouldnt boost at all in first...fine in the other gears...it ended up being the wastegate actuator mounting plate, I had moved it to rotate the compressor housing somewhat and had to use one of the holes not normally used that was plugged with a...

well first off, forged pistons are fine(I run 8.6:1 myself in the turbo neon, but compression that low makes the car sluggish NA, I would reccomend putting the turbo back on), if your plugs say you are lean then your lean, not rich, backffiring has several cause, what are the plug symptoms...

get a MegaSquirt...they read the 420A crank signal now...and you have full control, if you use a 4g63 ignitor...much better gains...and hard to beat at $300 for a full standalone...but it is more difficult to setup obviously

heh, my I/C pipes hung lower than that in my Neon and still didnt scrape over speedbumps or even those parking curbs I guess you would call them....thats one huge I/C for a T25, twice the size of the one I have for my 20G in fact(again though space in the Neon is pretty limited, its a 1st gen)...

I say go 2.4, no matter how much of a pain it is, I swapped a 2.4L foe the 2.0L in my neon(which in my case is a lot easier than doing a 4g64 since I already have a 2.4L engine I can use) but the 2.4L was night and day even NA before I turboed it. I built the 2.4 at 8.5:1 compression and it was...

well, if the 14b is the same center section as a 20G I believe its a M10 or M12 1mm pitch if I remember correctly...took me forever to find the fitting, I finally went down to autozone, raided their fittings box and came up with brake fitting that converted from that to a 1/4" compression...

heh, I have a 420A related block(its a built chrysler 2.4 actually) and have boosted(in spikes anyway) to 20psi, but then I have a forged bottom end so thats no surprise...I think both 4g63 and 420A are great engines for boost(the 420A only has the downside of having to have new rods and pistons...

the 420A crank will handle upwards of 500HP, no worries there...your rods will snap at about 260HP though, the pistons shortly thereafter

I will be making my own headers/manifolds since the only forced induction kits for a SHO are superchargers, but the SHO luckily is a good design to begin with...individual flanges for each cylinder, which reduces heat warpage in a turbo application, as for charge cooling I will be using an Air...

heh, can you say torque? no thanks, dont want to take my car to a frame shop after one launch...lol, like I said, this motor is just meant to be fun(thinking of doing some road racing with it, since the handling on the Fiero, even stock is top notch, especially for a car almost 20 years old)...

heh, I used to be that sterotypical guy...3 years ago when I owned my GS...now 4 cars later and 3 built engines down the road I think I am starting to learn a bit, its funny....when you first start out your scared of doing anything at all to your car for fear of breaking it...but the more you do...

heh, I am an experience engine builder, the stock block can handle 500HP, but it is getting forged pistons(which btw is where the 3.2L is coming from...its an overbored 3.0L, but the auto SHOs did have a 3.2L option just so you know to increase torque because they cant rev high as easily, that...

you should be able to lift with the manifolds...but I dont trust that myself, I generaly bolt the chain to the block myself

oh yes, some other questions...what is the most effecient boost range for a 14b, I seem to remember it being in the range of 7-16psi or so, which is just what I am looking for for this motor, also, does the 14b fall off any before 7k RPM? how about after? (the SHO engine will be revving to...

ok, let me clarify my project, its a 3.2L DOHC v6 out of a Taurus SHO, I know fabrication is required, I fabricate stuff all the time so its not a problem, this engine is going into a 1987 Pontiac Fiero and is going to be using a transmission out of a dodge neon(yeah I know, you all think it...

I am planning on using 2 14Bs for another twin turbo project of mine...but I need to verify that they will fit with enough space...so I was wondering if someone could measure and tell me real quick what the width of the 14b is at its widest point(I guess this would be the diameter of the...

its not an inherent problem in neons....sounds like either a bad motor mount(all motor mounts tend to fall apart after awhile) or a misfire which will cause bad engine bucking sometimes, and for your information the 420A is not a neon engine...the block is the same, but thats all, the DOHC neon...

actually I dont find it hard to work on the turbo at all, and I also like the fact my turbo is hidden away in back, my engine looks almost stock except for the fact is says 2.4, as far as the exhaust setup, you would actually lose some weight by routing it like the neon has it, as well as have...

actually the neon DOHC/2.4L heads flow better than the 420a, which is what makes the difference(along with slightly better cam) in the eclipse 140HP rating and the DOHC neon 150hp rating, rewiring the plugs and injectors consists of swapping them all over one cylinder and swapping the coil...

an update on a dead thread(sorry, dont post on here as much as I used to, I have since finished my 2.4 turbo swap in my 98 neon...as far as the engine swap itself goes...only had to change the passenger side motor mount(a guy on neons.org sells the adapter for $70, nice cnc aluminum piece...

hate to ressurect a dead thread, but I have since installed my standalone, and taken control of spark and fuel(stupid NA computer) but it still doesnt seem to be helping the spooling in 1st and 2nd, 1st still doesnt spool worth anything, when I get on it, it goes straight to 0 and will hang...

just a quick question...will a t3 oil return flange bolt to a 20g w/ no sealing problems?

yes, I have a full 3" exhaust....I thought it might be a lower sized spring than they told me....right now my boost gauge is running off an accesory port on the power brake booster so I'm not expecting the most accurate boost reading, but it still should be within a couple lbs, I dont think I...

I have a johnny racecar intercooler for my neon, its pretty nice, good quality construction and the outlet pipe is always cold to the touch

a wastegate opens at whatever the preset spring load is....in this case I was told when I bought the kit that it has a 15 PSI wastegate, therefore....the turbo is going to push out 15psi before the wastegate opens....no boost controller needed for that, however I think they lied to me since I...

its internally gated, I checked the wastegate operation....it seems to be working fine(its supposed to be a 15psi wastegate, but its never boosted more than 7psi, I think its just a 7psi wastegate myself, no boost controller as of yet, still working out the bugs in the engine, to be fair I think...

ok, I searched but couldnt find my exact problem....first background...I do not have a DSM, but you guys know a lot about turbos and turbo problems, so here goes...I have a 98 Dodge Neon with a fully built 2.4 swap at 8.5:1 compression(similar to the 420a) I am running a mitsu 20g(or rather a...

I know the stock PT(assuming PT crusier/srt4/cloud car2.4L here) bore is 88mm, dont have the wrist pin diameter offhand...post it when I find it at home though

ok, first off let me start out by saying I do not own a DSM, I own a neon(yeah, yeah, I know "but its still a neon") now, I have a 2.4L fully built(forged rods and wiseco 8.6:1 pistons, ported and polished head, etc) I am currently in the process of putting it all together, I have recently bough...

I own a 98 neon myself(currently working on a turbo 2.4L) and was just wondering whether anyone had swapped in a 2.4L block with the N/A 420 eclipse head(I know a neon owner who uses the eclipse head just for the convienence of mounting the turbo to the front of the engine) anyway, I was just...

thanks guys, that site is much more informative than most, its extremely hard to find info on this car for some reason, or rather, its hard to find anything much for its aftermarket(lots of custom fabrication looks like) actually, this is my second mekur, I have an 86 as well, but it blew a...

hey guys, been a long time since I posted in here, mainly because I was forced to sell my DSMs =( , I have since gotten a 98 neon(DOHC 420A engine of course, I had a choice between that and a 98 mitsu gs, chose the neon because it was less expensive and faster stock for stock, now that my...

it would be easy just to cut out one and weld it into place....but I personally dont feel it would look that great, but feel free to prove me wrong, I just dont want people who see it to tell me my car has breasts...lol, anyway, as far as progress on my hood is concerned, I have the front half...