i have a few parts spare head and some few other peices

as the title says does anyone know any good jacksonville fl dsm mechanics. i am stumped on my problem. doesnt have to jax it could be somewhere close as well.

15 psi safely

how do i get to the screen to adjust fuel baselinealso it is idling at about 16.0 on the widebandso now i even tried to 180 my cas it still runs the exact same. i have pulled the plugs and they are a bit black but still look good. maybe it running rich i dont know. anyone have any ideas?

ok maybe this might fix my problem. i have an safc i think is leaning or richening my engine to much. not sure how to get a baseline on my safc for the injectors. the safc works but i am just not sure how to adjust it. can anyone help who is good with this. i have followed the steps to install...

can anyone confirm the safc issue can this make your dsm run like complete crap and cause it to stall out????????? can anyone tell me what my injectors should be at for just a baseline i think my problem is there is to much or to less fuel programmed on my safc

just got my talon back on the road. took it down the road to get some gas it drives ok but when i come to a stop it wants to die out. then it takes a few mintues to get started back up. when i drive down the road it wants to hesitate under acceleration. i am going to pull the plugs and check...

anything happening in june here in jax we should get a meet going on saturday or something.

no the motor has not been broke in i just took it around the block and noticed this. the cams are a new addition and has no tune on the safc. is this normal on a new rebuild? it sounds like it is stuttering under a slight load.help any suggestions

ok as the title says, i just rebuilt this 7bolt took it around the block and on higher rpm it seemed kinda sluggish. i have to much oil in it after priming the system dont think that is the cause. maybe the cas is in wrong maybe 180 it. idles fine wide band is reading good with nothing abnormal...

good pooint thanks alot make sense to me. i will try this and get back to you all

ok i will start from the begining. i just rebuilt my 2.0 motor everything was replaced. worked out the issues with oil pressure and i was good to go. cranked it over it idles great but my wideband is reading 10.1 which i believe it is running rich. i have a safc but it disconected will this...

ok got my 2g running after long rebuild. fired it up today idles great minus the exhaust leak coming from external wg. also it wont rev up high sounds like its got no balls after 3000 rpm. what could be causing this. i have checked for vacuum leaks and have come up with nothing. please any help

depends on if your fuel setup can handle the the boost bigger injectors = more boost, cheap mbc and good one would be turbo xs this is what i run and it works great

rx7ttlm can you explain your methond a bit more in depth and yes i did connect the sensor back up it was working properly before i tored the engine down.just the two on the bottom right near the oil filter housing.

like the title says i successfully started the engine but shut it down as soon as no oil pressure was at the gauge. i have cranked with the engine fuse pulled it wont build pressure. what can i do about getting this oil pressure problem resolved? is there a quick and easy way to prime the system...

having the same problem come up with anything yet

yes it does turn over and i am not getting spark. not sure about the fuel maybe i will check it out tomorrow when i install the new cps. any other suggestions?

as the title says i cant get my dsm running. i testing the cas and it is good to go. tested cps and it is probable cause. is the a way to test it with the car off. i know what the haynes manuel says but i just want to double check myself. i am getting no spark. when i recoonect the cps my fuel...

so i have rebuild this engine 7bolt. went for a start today got nothing checked everything cps when key in ingition works properly. tested the ignition control module and it turns out to be bad now will this cause me not to have spark at all? also how to you properly check coil packs? just for...

i would definately try what GVR4592 said try the bolts. if it is not that then i would say that it could very be your front cover or front main seal.

just a bolt goes there plug and thats it, it serves no other purpose?

i am rebuilding my 7 bolt i noticed a threaded hole in the back of my block curiousity is upon me and i cant figure it out. the hole is below the knock sensor to the right of the a/c compressor. thanks ahead of time

my hp goals are qbout 350 i have a complete topling gasket set. topline pistons and stock oil pump. no bore just keeping the standard bore i will hone it. there were no scratches or scrapes in the block so i want to keep the bottom end stock. i am going bigger cams and i have bc springs to go...

ok i am going with a 7 bolt all stock internals any info on bearing clearences i am using brand new acl bearings and topline pistons. if that helps at all.

ok starting to rebuild this 4g63 is there anything special that i should know? its going to be a complete rebuild dtock bottom end semi modded head. i am only trying to do this once so anthing from bearings to timing anything is helpful.

i just cleaned it with a toothbrush and some brake cleaner let it dry and reinstall it.

get the one specifically for fuel it will reduce your chances of it deteriorating on your fuel system

not to sure on this one, i had the same problem a while back ago i just took the iac out cleaned it good and just replaced it. problem solved but i did this while the car was turned off.

it is way easier to pull the engine with the tranny so that you are not fighting the input shaft imo

when you eliminate fuel cut from your car it is no bad for it. i would just go with a company with a good reputation like dsmchips.com they are great and jeff helps out quite alot with questions that you may have. and yes have a boost leak is a problem . as for the injectors hot to sure.

if your coolant came out kinda foamy maybe the head gasket have you drained your coolant to check for contamination? or the oil pan

i am have mixed signals coming from previous threads someone help please

ok one last question, if my exhaust valves put small indentations in the top of the pistons will that hurt anything? they are not real big but i have never seend this before, any suggestions?

now what do yall mean by lapped. and i will try the water idea when i get home tomorrow

see here is what i found. when i took the exhaust mani off and looked into the valve chamber there was oil residue on the valve itself is that normal? i am not sure and if that were the case would i be leaking air from a comnp test?

i took my head off and did not see any bent valves. but when i look at the top of my pistons it had indications of the valves kissing the pistons on the exhaust side. is this possible also i had 60 psi on all for cylinders when i did a comp check. what can be going on

wish i could go but my car is broke maybe next year i guess

power transistor or aka ignition control module check it could be bad 100 part from the zone

ok i will try this i will let yall know what i come up with in a few days

is there a way of checking to see if i have bad lifters or would i just be shooting from the hip just looking at them? if my car was running fine would this really have caused my car not to fire? without taking the head is there a way to check for bent valves? i hope this is the problem thanks.

ok let me check a few more things i hope thats the case i will post when i figure the problem out

when i did it i didnt hold the gas to the floor. i took al plugs out installed the checker and started. it pumped three times and held at 60-63 psi. first pump was at 15 second was at 30 and third was at 60. is there another way of doing this. also i didnt bleed the lifters down if i didnt what...

ok a few weeks ago i was running on stock cams car ran outstanding no problems. then i installed the cams wouldnt start. come to find out the cas was broke fixed it. then the car started fine idled between 800-1000 rpm sounded fine. after the warm up i turned it off and let it sit. didnt touch...

they were comp cams 101-100 it ran a few weeks ago with the cams now it just wont start and it was 60 in all cylinders. and suggestions bent valves possibly

i installed the cams it wont start so i started with the basic things to check and i cant seem to figure out why it wouldnt start. i got fuel and spark just no detonation. so the compression check was the next step for me. and it was 60 across the board.

read a few posts didnt really help out that much as far as my concern. i believe my timing is dead on. the cams move and rotate so i believe the valve train maybe ok. my compression is 60 psi. what else can it possibly be.

no not yet

i guess that i can recheck it. the only noises that i noticed were lifter tap noises. thing is that it ran idled between 750 and 1000 rpms. i let it warm up then i shut it down. a couple of days later i tried to restatrt it and i got nothing. not really sure what is going on. going to try a...

no i installed the cams it ran a a few minutes i shut it down. the a couple of days later i started it back up and it wont even turn over. it cranks over but no detonation i have spark and fuel figure the cams might have ruined somethingmdont know though i am stumped