Good info. I am going to hopefully test this out this weekend.

Thanks Steve. I'm pretty good with the multimeter. There is defiantely no alarm, remote start, or turbo timer on the car. I am the second owner and I bought it stock with 60k miles. So I should unplug the ECU and test the voltage at the relay? Is the relay wired direct to the battery...

Ok so here is the scoop. It's a 95 TSi with a 95 EPROM ECU. When I shut the car off the MPI relay continues to click (the one with the blue connector) and causes my battery to drain. If I pull the connector the clicking stops and battery does not drain. It also has caused my power windows to not...

Long shot here, but do you have any of your old set ups for sale? I currently have an HID kit in my stock housings, aimed slightly more downward than they should be as to not blind any oncoming traffic. I have more of a chance of blinding someone I drive next to because of the cut off. I would...

Upgrade your brakes! lol. I am running a Holset and can build 15psi on the line without the hand brake, over 20psi with handbrake before I start moving. Stock converter.

It means your turbo is on its last leg. I had the same problem on my first turbo. It would only smoke after it boosted and I let off the gas.

Well, not exactly. If you test the system without the turbo and the problem persists, then you know it's not an issue with the turbo. If the problem goes away, well then you know the turbo is the problem.

But to what extent? He said it drops in psi fairly quickly.

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I believe your valve seals are leaking. That may be your problem. How old is the motor?

What boost controller are you running?

Wow nice setup. It would be nice to see your results with this turbo on the Evo. Are you using the stock housing?

I would sell it as a package with BEP housing, 4" intake and -10an drain line for around $500. I'm sure there are a few other things I can get rid of. Then I could pick up the FP 20g and slap that in.

In my opinion, the FP 20g with a 7cm housing looks like the cheapest solution for anyone looking for great spool and 50lbs/min. I'm running an HX35 right now at 28psi flowing 47lbs/min. I'm auto, and looking for something much easier to spool. So I have been looking at the HTA and Blouch 20g. If...

I'm running the .55 BEP housing and see about 40lb/min at 22psi. At 28psi I'm seeing 47lb/min. Stock motor, stock head. Tuned it myself. Fix your boost leaks. I guarantee that is what causes those low lb/min numbers you are seeing.

If we had E85 in Jersey I would switch in a heart beat. We don't yet so that sucks. And I don't really want to buy and set up meth right now. I don't want to push my stock 7 bolt too hard because I put 20k+ miles a year on it commuting.

I can't get more than 47lb/min on my HX35 at 28psi. And I can't run higher boost due to knock(need meth, and it's a stock block). I am seriously thinking about this bad boy. Should be a hell of a lot easier to spool on my AUTO and just as effective as my HX35 now. Anyone interested in an HX35 setup?

It takes about ten seconds to get to 15psi. I usually just let it get to 10psi and launch from there. Not the best, but easier on the trans.

Thanks for the advice. But I am also debating on switching back to a smaller turbo, now that I know how to tune. I tried brake boosting on the Holset last night but to me I feel it just takes to long. I'm not to concerned with the heat because I do have an aftermarket tranny cooler.

So quick question. I'm still running a stock 2.0 motor, and a rebuilt trans with ITP clutches on stock converter. Currently I run my Holset at 28psi and shift at 7-7500rpm. Do you think it would be better all around to shift at a lower rpm? Also, I have FP2's sitting on my shelf waiting to be...

I have all Prosport Gauges. They are accurate for me. I have tested the boost gauge, oil pressure, and fuel pressure gauge against Autometer gauges and the gauge on my compressor. Always read dead on.

This really makes me regret going to a Holset on my auto. Don't get me wrong, the Holset is a lot of fun. Just hard to spool on the line.

I don't know if it flows more, but it is definately better because of the shroud. I know for sure it flows more than my 10" mishimoto slim fan

I also have a water temp gauge and I've never gone above 220. On really hot days I just leave both fans on whether or not I am using the AC

Yes. That's the set up I'm using. That and a 180* thermostat.

Do yourself a favor and return it. Upgrade to the premium. I have broken two of those oil pressure senders. They are the same as the fuel pressure ones. The posts break very easily.

Their premium series is much smaller and more sturdy. And no stupid posts!

F*** crank walk!

Coolant will gush even out of the tiniest hole. That hose that is capped off is supposed to go to a factory oil cooler. Whoever had the car before you either bypassed it, or removed the oil cooler completely.

Your car inspires me. I have a 95 Tsi stock block 7 bolt with 150k miles on it. I'm running an HX35 at 28psi. I have yet to bring it to the track, but I'm running street tires and hope for at least an 11 second pass. Oh and I'm auto.

I may just save the money and cut slots myself. I trimmed my bumper for the FMIC and I think that came out pretty good.

lol. The cheapest one I found was $45 buy it now with free shipping.

Just search 350z air duct

Sweet. Ebay has them for $45 shipped each.

Ok, where did you get those carbon pieces?!!!

Unsubscribing now. Go pick a fight somewhere else.

For 2g's, the fans kick on at 210. The gauge doesn't move till about 230 I believe. Highway driving my temps stay around 200. At idle it starts getting hotter. But get used to it, our cars run hot.

I used to own a 2004 WRX with a VF34 turbo (like a 16g) and full bolt ons. Car payment alone was $500 a month! Then add about $4k in mods and labor. I ran a best of 13.1 in that car. Now I have my Talon with a Holset and a lot less invested and it feels ten times as fast as my WRX did.

I know what you mean. But you definately narrowed down the problem to the wastegate. Is there anyone local to you that might let you try and use their spring?

My only guess is that spring isn't correct, or just not doing it's job. Was it modified in any way? You can order a new Tial spring and see if that solves your problem. Have you tried calling Tial?

You just found your problem. Your wastegate should blow open at 11.6psi. You are saying it is only opening at 25psi with the air compressor. That is exactly what it is doing on your car too. You have a faulty wastegate.

It's got to be a faulty wastegate then. If you are sure there is a 10psi spring in there, it should not build any more than that.I have an HX35 with a Tial 35mm. If I set it at 20psi, it stays at 20psi. If I set it at 17psi, stays there too.

Have you tried running off just the wastegate to see if maybe your boost controller isn't working?

You need timing control to run over 20psi. I had the same issue with my car. I am only running 13* timing max at WOT.

Hey Glenn,Finally got the other laptop in the car and did some logging. The first one is an idle log. Second is a 2nd gear pull. Check them out.

Hey Glenn my laptop crashed. I have a spar one at home but I have to install ecmlink and log everything again. I will get you the maps as soon as I can.

Will do. :thumb: My laptop is in my car at home right now. I drove my wife's car to work today or else I would send them now. I will try to remember tonight.

lol who are you?

I'm ready to help you Trevor! Get your ass back here!

The smallest leak, whether it be boost or exhaust, will KILL your ability to brake boost.

I would be more than willing to do that. I tuned it myself, and I am new to tuning so any help is welcomed. I use dsmlink v3, so you would need to download the software to open it. Keep in mind the car is AUTO. Mods are HX35, 850cc inj, upgraded fuel lines, FP race manifold, no cams yet, 38mm...