I think the key point here is that you do not have to worry about the oil being too thin for the engine. Even switching to a 5w-30 in the winter is a good idea, unless you enjoy hearing the stressful moans and groans as the engine starts in sub zero temperatures.Synthetics may not wear out as...

Awesome!!!! Finally some FACTS!!!!!Multi-weight oils were made for harsh weather conditions, that is what we should use them for..

Hmm, mechanics and people that really know what they are talking about visited this thread and never mentioned the viscosity labeling methods. What does the 0 in 0w-40 stand for, and what does the 40 in 0w-40 stand for, and why would they make a 0w-40 if it was so horrible for your engines...

It is for my daughter, I am not worried about her per say, but you know how convincing a friend or boyfriend could be. Can I drive it.. I agree it is not a good first car, the only thing that worries me is the top speed handling. What teenager wouldn't want to "see what she will do."I bought...

I can't find much for this topic, imagine that, who wants to put a speed limit on a their GS-t?I am going to be turning the Eclipse over to my teenager soon and would like to know the easiest way to limit the top speed. This thing goes faster than is safe when I am driving much less a teenager..

Yeah it sucks to get 30,000 miles out of a turbo that most here told me I wouldn't get 1,000 miles out of, and that was 2 years ago... :hmm:Mine isn't a race car, and I am not a Brian O'conner wannabe, Iwas done growing long ago and will never be that tall..:ohdamn:

1. 30,000 2. Ebay 16G - 12-15lbs of boost 3. 7 bolt 4. Shafts still balancin 5. Head, full flow 6. Stock 7. Stock 8. Quaker State

Pull the plastic cover on the top of the valve cover and it will become blatantly obvious how to change the plugs. I don't think you will have to pull the engine to get that little plastic cover off.

If you put the engine in before you bolt the head on, it is possible. I did mine this way. You have to leave the balancer and lower timing gear off. It might be possible with the head on as well, but I am not sure, as I took the head off to get it out as well.

One option similar to the helicoil but longer lasting and more permanent is the thread insert.There is more than one company that makes these, they are a solid insert, so you can use green loctite to secure them in place so they don't back out.The kits are around $80 for one size with 5...

Wire a toggle switch directly to the compressor clutch with a 12V+ signal. Make sure and use an inline fuse holder.

I didn't cut anything, I supported the engine, and lowered that cross member that the mounts set on. Tnen I took the bolts out that hold the trans mounts on. It made it a little easier when you could get the mount completely out. It took a little persuading to get the new mounts in the bracket.

It's not a race car, why do I care about HP number or 1/8 mile numbers? It is a daily driver. I put an Ebay turbo to replace a trashed stock turbo, not to be a race car driver. If i was building a purpose built car I would have spent $5000 on a top of the line massive turbo. I have no intentions...

I've got 6000 miles @ 15 psi on mine.

Might go for a fuel filter...

I have used Certi-fit, and other people I know have as well. Its not a factory fit, but it is a good aftermarket company.

IF there is a car to "learn on" these are perfect, they will teach you more than one good lesson.1. Patience - something always broke really tests a guys patience. 2. Need - These cars will remind you how it feels to want, You will want more parts, more money to keep it running, and you...

Wonderful............... :notgood:I think I read another post that described this as a little control box in the passenger kick panel.. Is this correct??

looking at the schematic, the pressure switch is a dual pressure switch. With only two wires it has to be going to ground, so grounding both wires should bypass.

They work, some have leak stop.It isn't too expensive way to figure out you need to take it to the shop. Just might work if it is a very slow leak.

I'm wondering if it depends on how tight the installer clamps it in the sending unit. My 255 is loud too, I made sure to clamp it pretty tight when I put it together. Maybe, just maybe the key is to leave the clamp a little loose to leave more cushion for the pump.

I would not helicoil..They make thread inserts that are much more durable. The coils can unravel, and tend to leak when used against compression.I would use one of these :Time-SertAfter you are done, fab yourself up a small tube setup hooked to your vacuum to clean out the cylinder.

Mine don't run unless I sit and idle the car. They usually don't run down the road unless you have the AC on.Just keep an eye on your temp gauge and don't sit and idle.

The manual will tell you the exact steps that you should perform when timing the engine.

I looked at the Ethanol facts link..I didn't see anywhere that told how much water is used during the production of ethanol. Nor does it mention the large amount of natural gas that is used during the production of ethanol.They started building the plants left and right here in Nebraska...

That is normal for oil rings, they don't have the tension that the top two will.There is nothing that hasn't been mentioned here that is not the problem..What exactly did you have to do to get it running when your friend couldn't?

We've had E10 or 10% ethanol for a long time. In the past couple years they introduced e85, it is 85% ethanol, it goes for $2 a gallon. But as I said before its only 80% as efficient as regular unleaded fuel. Search E85, there are some guys here playing with it for big power!I run E10 in...

Pull it all out of the reservoir, disconnect both lines from the pump, put the return side in a pail, and blow through with your air compressor. I would run the pressure down to 5-10 psi. Refill and drive. If you are trying to get a good flush, do it again.

Ethanol has more octane, but will not produce as good mileage.85% Ethanol will produce 20% less MPG. More power, cooler and cleaner burning, depending on your setup.

Look over the head, check valve seals.Check ring end gap clearances to make sure they are over sized as well.

The recall was for torn boots, that got torn during the building process of the car. Not all of the boots were torn. A torn boot allows water to get into the joint, rust, and prematurely wear. After one replacement the boot that MAY have been torn by the factory is replaced, therefore covering...

I don't think I would feel too good about trying to claim warranty on a car that has ET times on the window. I am guessing that front end has seen more stress than it was designed for.The part is less then $200 for a factory new part and very easy to put on. Less than $100 for an aftermarket...

damn you guys are quick

I agree 5 grand is wayyyy overpriced...Buy one of these engines : eBay Motors: 95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon 4G63 Engine (item 310027461764 end time Mar-09-08 08:17:38 PDT) eBay Motors: Rebuilt OEM Eclipse Turbo Short Block Engine 95-99 4G63 (item 170187029826 end time Mar-18-08...

The initial vibration is shocking at first but becomes normal. I took the advice from many on these boards and cranked my idle up to just under 1000 and it feels much better. The mounts make the power feel more solid and power delivery smoother. I think it made shifting more solid and helps...

The poly mounts are very close to being solid. I put them in my daily driver and the vibration is definitely noticeable. The large side motor mounts completely replace the factory rubber with big chunks of polyurethane. The small front and rear mounts are what I would call an insert. If you want...

Just got off the phone with Mitsu, it will only be done one time, because the new ball joint is supposed to fix the issue.

$1400 with a blown engine. 74,000 miles

I would have paid for it a month ago, it looks good. It will sell, put it in the classifieds.

Nitrogen is quite inexpensive and easy to get, HVAC guys use it a lot for pressure testing any welding supply company would have it. The cost is in the regulator.

Get your stock one welded. SOmeone that knows what they are doing will be able to weld it.

Slowly getting there..

COol, especially if you would have posted this initially.Doing it yourself is always more rewarding. Off to the audio store..

From this site:There is now a larger splined input shaft utilizing the Mitsubishi EVO 4 -9 Input shaft. This input shaft provides and extra margin of protection to those making high horsepower.Magnus Motorsports - DSM/Mitsu EnginesMore good trans info: Gear set identification

Were you knocking with regular fuel?There really should be no super power boost, unless you can boost more with no knock..

I was contemplating using a kit like this:HKS Circle Earth Grounding Kit EVO

I really doubt the wires are stripped out all the way to the firewall. Listen to where these guys are telling you that they are at and follow it back to the main wiring harness. If someone cut the factory pigtail off the wires will still be in the main bulk of wires.Myself, I would hit up a...

Sweet car!

There has to be some sort of solid option that retains the back seat. :toobad:

That looks real good.I have been tempted to pick up one of those cheap PC guns and start practicing.It makes for a clean and strong coating.