w00t! someone brought this thread back from the dead.. ^^ lol anyways if there are still windsor/essex county people on here there is a local forum for you www.realtimeperformance.ca - Index lots of dsm owners on there also.

I knew some guy who used PVC pipe as an intercooler in his home made turbo 5.0L Mustang, and he kept blowing apart the tubing at like, 8psi.

yah, and pay that 40 bucks in waisted gas in the first week :P

I usually buy used ones for about $100 bucks for a blown one.. I would offer $20

while driving even with a full exhaust you don't really hear it from inside the car.. I let my buddy take my car for a spin and when he was driving away I was amazed by the sounds that the turbo was making that I could not hear from inside the car. and it was a FWD stright 2.5" exhaust so there...

my bellhousing is cracked, I have not welded it yet, but I drilled a hole at the end of the crack so it would not get any bigger.

ok, so you took the actuator wastegate off and tested it and it works fine.. try to test it connected to the turbo and flapper.. the wastegate flapper it's self might be seized.. did you check to see if it moves freely? that could be causing your overboosting problems.. if the wastegate actuator...

my buddy just swapped a turbo neon engine into a old beat up toyota tercel (sleeper style I guess) and the amount of fabrication was intense.. everything from getting exact measurements to custom motor mounts, axles, hubs, custom intake and exhaust manifolds, pedal assembly, shifter assembly...

you should be able to swap in a AWD transmission.. but as what was previously stated, you will need to weld the center differential and/or get a Vicious Coupler Eliminator (VCE).. you will obviously not install the transfer case and you can just leave the output shaft spinning in the wind.

good stuff! what do you plan on using for a transmission? RX-7 Tranny with B2600 bellhousing? GM Auto tranny with boucher adapter plate? or something else?also what is it going in?

not really DSM related, but we were at a Dyno Day at my buddy's shop and this kid with a neon (420a) said his car will make over 300hp, because he has intake = 25hp, exhaust = 40hp, ect and he goes on to add up everything he has which comes out to about 300hp.. well after the laughing was...

get a wideband.. I thought my S-AFC settings were good untill I got one, boy was I wrong.. ROFL

I had the same thing happen, my clutch puked a spring and it jammed between the clutch and pressure plate, the fork still moved but I was probably just bending it. and you start the car in gear and drive, does it disengage when you press the clutch pedal in? mine would not.

you will have to either weld your center differential, or get a VCE as stated above, then you can remove the driveshaft or the whole transfer case, because you might loose fluid with just the end of it open. if you go rear wheel drive, then you will have to remove the axles, but keep the ends in...

I did some searching and I did not come up with a solution to reattach the rear defroster wire to the window.. a few people suggested soldering it back on, but others said this will not work, I don't think you will be able to heat the part on the window enough to get a good solder and it will...

I just put in a new thermostat to a 192 (or 196 whatever it was) degree to hopefully cure the problem that I'm having with my cabin heater output, which blows out semi-warm air, barley enough to heat me up on a cold day.. but it hasn't changed.. I'm pretty sure I've removed all the air bubbles...

Only buy Walbro from Dealers, NOT ebay.. there are a lot of knockoff Walbro's going around and they are identical to the real units and almost impossible to see any difference. look here Executive Life » Walbro Fuel Pump Forgeries? Who knew?

well, I figured it out.. it was an electrical problem, my alternator died and somehow my car must have been running right off the battery or just getting really low voltage for the last few days when the problems started happening.. but I repalced it with a known good alternator and still...

ok, well I think I figured out the problem and it has turned into a whole other problem. My alternator died, and I'm pretty sure it was no giving enough power to feed the fuel pump, and then it finally died.. so I replaced it with a known working recently rebuilt alternator, and the car will not...

I will do this also!

what are you talking about? you can make a stock injector flow more fuel than it's meant to at a certain RPM but of course you cannot make it flow more than it's maximum rate, but anyways it it NOT a injector/s-afc problem, I know this for a fact, I have logged, checked, double checked and made...

nope, I have stock 450CC injectors.. I have a S-AFC and wideband for because I'm running higher than stock boost with a 16G (I was running out of injector at about 5500RPM), and it's there for when I do upgrade the fuel system. but anyways the only fuel mod I have is a 190LPH fuel pump and...

Everytime I get on the gas, my AFR's rise right to 17:1 and above, the car makes no power and chugs.. I'm afraid I'll blow something.. it also likes to idle at 16.5 to 17:1.. not sure if that is off, but untill today it would idle at 14.5:1 anyways I have a AEM wideband and a S-AFC, both seem...

you did install the throwout bearing? seems like a silly question, you said you moved the TOB with the rod removed, did you do this by hand by pushing on the fork? you should not be able to do that. but maybe it just needs a bleed.. have someone push on the pedal while you watch and see if the...

was it disconnected? because thats an awesome time.

if it's dirty I assume you can just try to wipe out the grease and possibly use brake cleaner if you need to. then just repack it.. I think you will have to remove a C Clip to get one side of the axle apart so you can slide on the new boot, unless you can buy the two piece boot.

my 1990 FWD went 13.8 multiple times with a disconnected exhaust and boost controller. Stock everything else. Which is why everyone called it a factory freak. then the stock clutch started to slip.

I don't plan on doing this, but I am just curious if the KARMAN maf will be able to support something like this. If you were to build a sealed box to house the maf, and installed it after the turbo, will it be able to read the airflow? I'm sure the compression might damage the speaker and...

you might have to port your wastegate to prevent spiking near redline. especially when you get a MBC and raise the boost, it will spike faster and higher.

water evaporating from the rear when your driving around with the heat cranked before you park it will condense and freeze on your windshield overnight. So dry it up!

it could be your injectors clicking, mine were loud.

Felpro FLP 35336acdelco 12G26these are my part numbers, I work at a parts store, but I hope they help you out.

you can remove the nylon gear with the speedo sensor, but if the gear that drives it is damaged, I believe that is attached to the differential and would require you to take apart the transmission to get to.

can you get a gear clamp around it to temporarily hold it on untill you can retap or helicoil the threads? I would suggest applying some RTV to the gasket before you put the clamp on just to help seal it.

5500RPM, Preload and dump.. :Dbut honestly I cant explain how I start from a stop because I don't pay attention, it just happens... sometimes I let go of the clutch completly before getting on the gas and move the car on it's idle.

I have the same kit, I'm sure there is enough pipe in the long section to cut it up and route it the short way.. I think I might do this.

tap the flapper with a hammer where is goes into the side of the housing, that will line it back up so it covers the hole. I've had to do that to about 5 turbo's so far. works every time.

you would think so, but I proved that wrong a few weeks ago. but I guess you would have to compare the price of a new clutch to a new transmission to make it fare, not a used transmission because no one buys used clutches. but who would buy a new transmission anyways when used ones are cheap :)

my pedal started crunching last night, I'm sure it's bent due to the heavy pressure plate. still works great, just every once in a while has a crunch/pop noise coming from the assembly.

when my friend origionally owned my car two years ago we put in a XTD 6 puck with lightened flywheel and pressure plate.. I own the car now and it still works great, and I beat the crap out of it.

20B as in 3 Rotor?

my DSM with a 14B is pretty quiet.. but my other one with a small 16G has the sweet sound of a jet turbine.. I also have a small exhaust leak at the downpipe, so when I fix that it might go away.. not sure.

my drivers side headlight will not go up, but when I manually put it up, I can put it down with the switch.. so it will only go down, and not up.I searched and could not find anything usefull.. so anyone have an idea what could be up? the passenger side popup works fine.

$1500 for a mint 90 FWD Turbo, I just had to spend 100 bucks on a new turbo and it was a great car.. I got that with 150,000KM and it currently has 230,000KM on it. I just traded that car for a near identical 90 TSi AWD last week, just had to put in a new tranny and fix up some things.. it has...

I would just say lifter tick, my engine is loud sometimes and other times it's quiet like a brand new motor..

looks like the steering column grew a tumor.. but it's defiantly functional!

so, the new DSM seems to have another problem, other than the fact that it had a blown tranny when I got it last week (already put in a new one) I was backing it into my buddy's garage and it decided to cover the side of his white Skyline GT-R in oil shot from the exhaust.. I'm going to do a...

when the ones went out in my 1G, I did not have any extra bulbs, but I did have a extra guage cluster laying around. I pillaged the cluster for the bulbs, which are a bit bigger than what fits in the HVAC cluster bulb spot, but I just forced them in there and they work.

and it also took them like 3000 Balloons to lift a 40lb child.. so let's say your tires have the same air space as about only 15 balloons, and the fact that your going to compress them at ~35PSI so they are only going to get heavier.. still lighter than compressed air, but you'll do better...

does it happen in neutral or just when you start sending power to the wheels?