I am the shop.. I do my own work on my car.To all else, I called it a hydro tensioner because it seems to operate like a hydraulic rod.I just replaced EVERYthing on the timing side of the motor exactly a year ago so I wasnt going to do it again for no reason but I'm gonna spend the...

It all started about a month ago when I pulled my head for a HG/ARP stud install, put it back together and then one time about a month later when I started it the timing jumped and I was just able to limp it a short distance home, now I reset everything the other day and I noticed that the belt...

14.5 volts is NOT to high. I'd lean toward a bad alternator yet..

find an underhood picture of a 3S, that should tell you why you want a 4g63.

Or you could actually verify that there is a bad part, start with wiring voltage tests then start the resistance tests, if you can figure that out then you'll be golden.

probably some sort of primitive methanol injection.

To make it as heavy as a cadillac.

Wow, you really like wasting time and effort. You DO NOT have to touch the cam, hold pull of the V/C and use a wrench to hold the cam and loosen the gear.Its not as bad as you think. And ummm unless you have vision that allows you to see through plastic covers than you wont see a broken...

X2, I'm pretty sure this guy is talking out of his a**. It would not even be worth the investment of the equipment for him to buy.Anywho, I'd try Bill Vice and see if can do it.

its a gravy job, maybe your motor is crankwalking and snapped the sensor?However I'd put my money on the Balance shaft belt breaking and snapping the sensor.Dont try to start it or it can get caught in your timing belt and stip it teeth leaving you with bent valves.

I can see both but chances are it shouldnt make a *Huge* Difference as far as having acceptable emissions, I would probably suspect another problem but then again if you're trying to pass emissions law than I probably wouldnt use a Hi Flow style catalytic converter.

FIXED: The problem was the previous owner of the car half arse installed a greddy turbo timer or something and had cut the wire and then it was repaired with a cheap butt connector and then chopped again and wired to the timer harness, there was 2 strands of wire left in the butt connector.I...

I just traded my local DSM parts god my EPROM for a 97 GST ecu.

Wow, you obviously arent the brightest crayon in the box either. WTFThere are alot more variables that play into a running motor than that, what if it were out of time just a little bit?, or the ECT sensor was uplugged? ;)

Sounds like a bad CV shaft, Mine did the same thing (Look for inner boots to be torn)Mine only did it on the highway after driving for about 5 minutes and would get worse and worse.

The starter relay grounds through the switch you're talking about, check continuity between the black w/ yellow striped wire at the relay and the starter signal engage wire.

This started a couple weeks ago on a very cold day when my cars starter would just barely kick the solenoid and not engage or crank. I wouldnt have thought of anything but the starter so I got a new one very very very cheap from our shop supplier (World Starter)... Put it in and the starter gear...

sounds like you blew your head gasket.

The circuit board is damaged though, At least the car wont start with it installed.

Thats what I thought, My car would crank and crank today and eventually started but I didnt drive it.. but I did notice after I turned the key off my low coolant lamp as well as my alt. lamp were still on even with the key out.

The best way I can describe it is there is a white haze that goes from the capacitor over to the circuit board.

Ohh, you said you had no fuel. What you should've said is that you have no injector pulse.Anyway there is constant power to the injectors and the ECU grounds them out to fire them, it is told when to do it by the cam/crank/cas, whichever you may have.

Just realized I accidently broke a wire to my ECT temp sensor while replacing the starter, after I did that I *finally* got it to start but it is still having troubles like before..

If you have a 7 bolt it could be a faulty cam or crank sensor, I believe it has to have a crank ref. in order to enable the FP on.

So it all started a few weeks ago in the extreme cold, negative temperatures ect. my car wouldnt start right away, I'd have to turn the ignition a couple times before it would start but would run Ok from then on, it got a little worse so I replaced the starter and it still did the same thing...

Just went to my g-ma's funeral tonight.. It sucks man, sorry.

Answer to your question sir.

I have a 95 AWD 5 sp.When I bought the car it came with some Megan racing springs and blown stock struts. It has 3 degree's negative camber for each tire in the rear and 1.5 on each front tire. Tires are 225 50 16 Pirelli P6 Four seasons with half tread life, 5/32nds.the problem I have is...

:toobad:umm? Block tester?

No.What exactly are you trying to accomplish? Are you being to cheap just to buy a new sensor?

sounds like you may have some bearing problem, when you take off the belt do you feel any roughness/looseness in any of the pulleys?

He's may be onto something :cool:If the belt is "Tight as hell" then wouldnt that put all sorts of tension on the waterpump bearings?.. then wouldnt all that extra load on the bearing cause it to wear faster?

there arent many things that will set the CEL, sounds like a CAS problem.

Does the noise go away when you turn it one way and get louder when you turn it the other?

Please tell me you are talking about a wideband and not an air/fuel light show.

Soooo do you have the same problem?

When it starts cutting out are you in boost? If you're out of boost will it run fine?Sounds like bad/and or improper plug gap

Maybe the 2g's just dont make good heat for some reason, my 1g would scald my hand if I kept it over the vent for too long.

I installed a new thermostat (Top one in my pictures) and it makes pretty good heat when driving, now its just to see how long it takes to make heat on a 10 degree morning tommorow.I would not be suprised the heater core is plugged full of that damn stop leak, I dont know why anyone would...

What thermostats are you guys using? Mine looks like thisThey also sell one that looks like this, I wonder if there is any difference, One has the pellet and probably different spring rates? They are both 180 degree's..

The car is a 95 TSi AWD, when I bought the car the previous owner told me it had a cracked radiator.. It did in fact have a large crack in the end tank as well as some of that lovely stop leak garbage. I replaced the radiator last year and flushed the heater core with a hose for like 2hrs and...

0%Oil Pan gasket, unless sumhow it sprained the largest leak ever recorded. 50% Timing belt broke and will need several hundred dollars in repair.. Sounds like the whine you're hearing is the motor cranking over with no compression? 50% Combination of problems.. Maybe the CAS took a dump and...

I believe the coil is 4231 from the passenger side to the driver bud, Sounds like your wires are backwards You are correct on the motor though, it goes 4321

thanks, I just put BPR6ES in today they were gapped smaller than .035" because my gapper didnt fit, I use 92 octane and it doesnt feel like fuel cut because the car still accelerates just with a miss.. It has autolite platinum wires on it (came with the car).. I think I'll get them warrantied...

I am trying to just get my 2g to not misfire under stock boost with my 16G, the fuel system should be plenty to support 9psi (450's,Walbro 190, 48 psi base fuel pressure) on my 16g, I have tried everything to get it to stop missing under boost and now I'm curious if I'm missing something with my...

I just bought one 2 weeks ago for my Talon AWD, I was very impressed...I had a regular 2G mani w/ an EVOIII and all I needed to install it was a little cutting and 3 extra Tbolts.

:tease:median- being in the middle or in an intermediate position Either lack of the english knowledge or comprehension owns you.Looking for a BASE setup as in somewhere in the middle of lean/rich or "median" if you willI know somewhere someone has the same setup which is why I asked.

was the scraping noise coming from the tire skidding on concrete? Or was it scraping as in your pads backing plate is wearing metal on metal with your rotor?, I can see a wheel not spinning if your brakes are grinding.. If not I'd suspect a hose, caliper, or stuck ebrake linkage..

^^ True, it is a good Idea to apply lube to all contact surfaces, especially the pad hardware, I usually replace it but I suggest lubing it so that your pads dont get stuck in them.

Hello tuners!I have a 2G with a Walbro 190, 450's,EVOIII @ 9psi( massive FMIC), and a 95 Galant GS FPR. I am tuning solo with an SAFCI (I know the importance of a datalogger, Wideband ect). But I am curious how much I should up my Hi throttle (Percentage wise) settings based on my setup...