This is all true and great information. When I did my Z, I even went as far as 'lapping' the head/deck areas with sand paper after using the rol-locs, using a very similar method mentioned above. Lapping is starting with a heavier grit sand paper and finishing with a finer grit. The idea here...

I realize this is almost 2 months old but I wanted to add my 2 cents...with the proper tools and proper know-how, a rol-loc, a straight edge and a good feeler gauge set will get you by on most head gasket jobs. I've done many, many heads like this. Many 4 cylinder cars including my old GST, a...

Just to add to the list, before I sold her I ran a cut crank in my motor. Held up prefectly fine without a single problem. Was only around 260hp but I know it would've held much, much higher than that.

Hey guys sorry I haven't been around lately. Was in SoCal for a month then went to Cancun with my girlfriend. Now I'm back to the terrific Pennsylvania sunshine (aka clouds, rain, snow, cold) :beatentodeath:Anyway if you're looking to just replace the main bearings due to excessive end...

I don't see any problem in just replacing stock main bolts with stock bolts (or re-using them if they're fine). If you did an align hone every single time you re-used or replaced main bolts, on any motor, people like us would have a VIP card for our favorite machine shop....Or a "after every 5...

I once took a self tapping screw, screwed it into the old seal and pulled it out. Just got it far in enough to where I felt was safe, and came right out. The trick to getting the new one in is slab it up in motor oil or assembly lube and find an appropriate sized socket to push it in.

Since it seems like more people are curious about this, I went ahead and inverted the colors of the photos I took of my bearing when I filed it down some; in hope to make the modification stick out a little better. I wish I would have had a better camera at the time to take these pics instead...

DSM Jeff:Like I said, if you plan on using ARP studs, you MUST get the block align honed with these studs or else you're going to run into problems. ARP even warns about getting the block align honed when using their main studs. Also, you may want to consider the MBCAD kit (MachV sells...

11 D-61 (in my FSM)(1) Since the main bearing bolts are torqued using a new procedure, they should be examined before reuse. If the threads are necked down, replace the bolts.(2) Necking can be checked by holding a scale or straight edge against the threads. If all of the threads do...

I'd take the block, caps, pistons, rods and head to a machine shop and get a professional opinion, especially since it's easier to see things like this in person. When it comes to re-building a motor, everything has to be perfect; or else you're going to run into problems...I'd recommend...

You'll have a noticeable increase in power from stock. Just don't expect 300hp. I had a 14b, SlowBoy FMIC (it was huge), hks ssqv, k&n FIPK, 16psi, stock exhaust, quite a few other odds and end, on a freshly stock rebuilt motor and I was happy with it. Pulled like a raped ape on colder nights...

Probably a faulty oil pressure switch or the wire came off. Just a tip for you, and please read this before attempting to put a new switch in: Get some thread sealant paste (available at auto zone). Put some on the threads of the new switch. When threading the new switch into the oil filter...

If you're looking for a stock replacement, but don't want to pay Mitsu's price, go with a RAM OEM replacement. I had one of these in my GST Spyder years ago and I swear that bastard would catch anything I threw at it. It gripped well, took launch after launch, never chattered and lasted a lot...

What the hell did the guy do, build this motor drunk and blind folded? The blue marks you talk about, I am unsure without a picture. As for the rod, you can just purchase one, if you need to. Part Number EG-5900MB3D-1 And yes, you will definately need the crank to be turned as mentioned by...

Look on the back of the bearings, it will tell you the size. Are you sure you're not tightening the rod too much? What kind of torque bar are you using? If it's a click-type, they are known to fail/give in-accurate results if the torque bar is not stored properly (don't ever keep a click...

.009 is right there at service limit. I actually have a friend who owns a 97 GSX at the moment with 130,xxx miles and his end clearance is .013 and he has no problems while driving, and his play hasn't opened up at all since the last time I checked it for him (4 months ago or so). As far as...

Hey sorry I haven't been on here in a while. The car's thrust is still perfectly in spec, right around .005. I ended up selling the car, however. I couldn't pass up the price I was offered. But I have driven it and seen it since then. The motor has around 7,000 miles on it already (possibly...

Really...? I mean maybe this thread title could have been thought about a little longer. Kind of an insult IMO. By no means did I say I was a "quitter" because I sold my GS-T and got a much more reliable car. Hell, I have a 98 GS-T in my garage as of right now that is my cousins. We've been...

I'm sorry to say it...But I left the DSM world for good. Three weeks ago or so I sold my 97 GS-T, and it wasn't easy doing it. I owned the car for almost 4 years and was in love with it. It was one of the best looking, properly maintained DSM's I've ever seen, IMO. The body had 173,686 miles...

What does the clutch pedal feel like? Is it adjusted properly? (not to however you want, make sure it's adjusted according to the manual). You bled the system completely? Any leaks? The shaking that you're talking about could be a warped flywheel/pressure plate or something got on the...

You don't ever want to run too lean...My intake manifold is almost always hot to the touch and has been like that since day 1. What are your mods, how much psi are you pushing?

Lining up the 7 bolt caps is a total pain in the ass because they're all tied together. Like you, I also had my block align honed with a torque plate on the block. What I ended up doing was after assembling the bottom end, I only torqued the mains to about 15ft lbs or so and finger tightened...

Sorry i couldn't really hear the scraping you were talking about, maybe it's just my speakers...Clutch pedal properly adjusted? Always adjust it according to the service manual, do not adjust to however you want it. Also, might be a bad input shaft bearing in the transmission (you should...

Sounds like the input shaft isn't completely lining up with the clutch disc. Just twist/shake the tranny around, and if need be, lower/raise the engine accordingly to assist in sliding the tranny back on. You DID use a clutch alignment tool, correct? Assuming you did, like Sp1kE said, turn...

With a bad crank position sensor, the car will still crank. Your problem sounds like an electrical problem. Maybe a coil pack going bad. Also, when was the last time you changed the plugs/wires? It could even be a bad starter solenoid. I had this happen to me once. Sometimes the car would...

It's cool, we're all here to get and give information, and I also hope that this mod does shine some light on to the dreaded 4G63 crankwalk issue.Clutches as well as torque converters do play a role without a doubt because both of them are an external device exerting forward pressure on the...

I understand how you can see my approach being a little bit off in my other thread, I should have probably initially stated from the start that I was approaching every known likely cause, from the ground up with any motor.I agree with you 100% that with our 4g63's it is very unlikely to be...

I stated in that post that a lot of the information in it was gathered, not all of it was my own. I never said that those statistics were 100% pointed at the 4G63's, those are general statistics.And who are you to say that 7 bolts don't go through any of that when they crankwalk? It's not...

Just to quickly clear up the "rear and front" thrust surfaces...The transmission side of the thrust bearing is considered the rear side. The pulley side of the motor is considered the front. So we're getting a pressure from the rear side (clutch) putting forward pressure on the crank...

The problem is - is that you have a hydraulic problem somewhere like mentioned earlier. I bet you if you pumped the clutch a few times, it'll build pressure and go into gear easily. I've gone through this before. It's either your master cylinder or slave cylinder. Or (if your lucky) you may...

I just posted this last night, actually. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/345564-thrust-bearing-modification-crankwalk-prevention.htmlThis will assist in keeping the thin oil film between the rear thrust face and the crank's thrust surface maintained. Helping...

Here are a few pictures of my own thrust bearing that I did the modification to. I'm sorry that some are so blurry, they were taken with my camera phone. If you're wondering why my main bearings are black, it's from the graphite coating that was applied to them.Rear Thrust Face...

This thread correlates with my in-depth crankwalk explanation thread located here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/342560-crankwalk-depth-explanation.htmlI did this modification to my thrust bearing when re-building my engine and I'm a believer that this modification can...

For a break in period, 20w-50 is fine. Just be sure to use non-synthetic for a break in period then you can switch to full synthetic. Amsoil by far is the best oil IMO. Mobil 1 and Royal Purple are also good choices. Hell when I broke my freshly built engine in, I used 10w-40 non-syn then...

The funny thing about this problem is that when I just re-built my tranny over this spring, I never had any shifting issues with 5th gear. But when I started tearing the tranny apart, both the input shaft and intermediate shaft lock nuts were finger loose. The only thing keeping them in place...

This is the exact tool I've always used. It's a universal clutch alignment tool and got it about 3 or 4 years ago from Auto Zone for like $18.http://i31.twenga.com/3/tp/99/03/6228358852267079903.png (Sorry for the small pic)It consists of the rod, interchangeable tips for the pilot...

First of all, get rid of that extended slave cylinder rod. They're junk and do more damage than good.When putting the clutch in, did you lube the critical areas that need to be lubed? I've seen people skip on this, causing clutch problems.Input shaft splines T/O bearing (inner and...

I'm bored and have some extra time on my hands so I'm doing this write-up to clear some things up about "crankwalk". I don't have 1,000,000 posts on here but that doesn't mean I don't know anything, I just hardly ever get on here. This is for informational purposes and to assist in resolving our...

I know this thread is a couple months old but I created it and wasn't going to make a new one...Since I've gotten my car back on the road, ALL of my wheel bearings are brand new.Here's a list, suspension/brake wise... (and it's made the humming noise even before I lowered the car)...

Don't ever buy a cheap e-Bay valve cover gasket...Or any cheap e-Bay gaskets, for that matter.While I was re-building my motor, the one and only gasket I purchased from e-Bay was the valve cover gasket because I couldn't see myself paying almost $50 for a Fel-Pro. I think I payed like ~$20...

Don't ever buy a cheap e-Bay valve cover gasket...Or any cheap e-Bay gaskets, for that matter.While I was re-building my motor, the one and only gasket I purchased from e-Bay was the valve cover gasket because I couldn't see myself paying almost $50 for a Fel-Pro. I think I payed like ~$20...

I know that it's recommended to get an OEM, or any crank pulley is dampens harmonics. But here's the situation...I've seen 2 OEM pulleys seperate, and heared about it more than once on here. I don't want to go with an OEM one.I'm still using my OEM pulley. It has a ton of miles on it...

It's hardly ever bad oil rings. A good way to check the rings without a 'tester' is to go down a steep hill while in gear, not using the throttle. Once you get to the bottom, smash the throttle. If it throws quite a bit of smoke, then start to worry about rings.Compression tests won't...

So I've only ever had to patch 2 small spots on my 97 GS-T since I've had it. Even though it came from New York, it's in excellent shape.I jacked up the rear last night around 9 to fix my exhaust rattle. Well I fixed the rattle, but while under the car I was peeking around and found a spot...

Update:Got everything fully assembled and dropped in. Made sure every single nut/bolt was torqued to proper spec. Fired her up for the first time the other day, only had 1 problem. I had a bad cam position sensor. Got a brand new one and everything is running EXCELLENT. As of right now...

Well I found the problem.Got the code read today at Auto Zone and it pulled the Cam Position Sensor. Bought a new one for $74.99, replaced it and haven't had the problem since!Thanks again for the help.Steve

Plugs are brand new NGK's gapped at .028. I pulled 'em and they still look new. Plug wires are fine. I cleaned the injectors during the re-build and put new O-rings on them as well. When I built the motor, every single nut and bolt was torqued to proper spec and I mean EVERY nut and bolt...

Thanks for the info. I'm going to rent a code reader tomorrow once Auto Zone opens up. Also, before the initial test drive, the car had warmed up for about 30 minutes and like I said the first drive was perfect with no problems.Also, the car doesn't blow any smoke out either when it chugs...

I tried my buddy's MAF and it did the same thing. Haven't looked too much into the O2 sensor yet.