I been out the DSM community for years. I'm looking for a 1st gen AWD with a manual transmission to build. If you have one or know anyone selling one let me know. Shoot me a text 262-510-8710Thanks,Kevin
A bad crank angle sensor will prevent your car from starting. You should check and make sure the wire is not broken or disconnected. If wire and connection is good I would go ahead and change out the sensor.
The oil squirters are there to help cool the pistons on turbo motor. Both OEM and NPR pistons are basically cast piston. So, having oil squirters would help cool the pistons especially when your running the car hard. I doubt Mitsubishi will design it if it didn't serve its purpose. I would sell...
VRSF front mount is good for what its worth and its been used by people that made 400whp+. Just because it cheap doesn't mean it not going to work. Take for example Holset turbo it cheap and work f**kn awesome.
You should set a goal and decide on what turbo you want run. No one here can tell you an exact answer since there so much variable to it. Since your looking to run more then what the SAFC can handle my suggestion would be sell the MAFT skip the SAFC and buy Link or Ostrich. Then you can run...
SAFC and MAFT isn't cheap electronic those parts been out longer then Link. There is no point in buying Link if the OP isn't trying to make a lot of power. OP is your not looking to run more then 650cc injector then SAFC and MAFT would be fine. If you want more tuning abilities then you should...
+1 on this advice, I would replaced the timing belt and components using an OEM timing tensioner. Change the spark plus(NGK copper plugs), engine oil and trans oil. If your upgrading the intercooler and not looking to spend more the 500, look into getting a VRSF. Also a downpipe and exhaust...
Better off doing what gieri002 suggested. If you have a flash-able ecu, might as well use it and save some money. You can use that money toward a tactrix cable and pick up a boost gauge.
Of course it's going to be slow it's a single cam 1.6. That doesn't even make 100whp, if you want to make decent power put in a K-Series or B-Series motor.
Your not going to provide any real data when you post up two different car with two different set-up. If your going to provide real data, your going to have to get the same car using different intercooler. I'm not sticking up for VRSF or anything, I'm just stating the facts.
If its the stock turbo then feed it from the head. The stock oil feed location is right next to where you circle. It should have a banjo bolt and two crush washer there.
Creaking noise while turning the steering wheel is usaully the upper ball joint. I would get one of those stephascope(I think that how you spell it) and start there.
You should buy this EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
and EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts. If you don't have enough money for both of those parts go to your local parts store and get an o2 sensor for now. Get rid of the afc and start saving...
There is no difference in the tensioner arm 95-99 is all the same. The only difference is early 95 uses this part MIT-MD308587 tensioner and later 95-99 uses this MIT-MD308086.
First thing I would do is change the timing belt, timing belt components, use OEM tensioner, all fluids and recirculate the blow off valve. Venting the blow off valve will cause you to stall.
This is just my opinion but your better off spending a couple hundred more and getting a set of forge rods and pistons. I mean why spend 500 on a set of 2g piston on 1g rod. When you can get some thing better. If you really insist on doing it, your better off taking it to a local machine shop...
You can use a 2g fwd transmission but your going to have to disconnect the drive shaft. You can also use a tran from a 95/96 awd but your going to need the transfer case from that year also.
Looking at your log it seems as your running rich at idle, your profile mention you have a 255 with no afpr to control fuel pressure. You said you have a leak at the throttle body shaft seal, that is part of your issue. I don't see anything regarding a wideband or are you going by the afratio...
I recommend Extreme PSI, JNZ and Maperformance for any parts period. Extreme PSI is my first choice if you order earlier in the day and your parts is in stock they will have it ship out the same day.
Either one of those kit would be fine, it just personal preference between the stainless steel kit or the nylon one. I've ran the ss kit from Extreme Psi and very happy with it.
You should be able to use your stock coolant lines and banjo bolts. I even used the crush washer from the t25 and it never leak. And to make it fit your going to have to bend the coolant line a little bit.
No you would have ro remove the flapper to run the wastegate on the o2 housing. You would want to only weld it shut if your going to be putting the waste gate on the manifold.
If this car is from Wisconsin I would not buy it. The current owner bought the car from some kid, who told him the car was built. Come to find out the bottom end and transmission was not built. He had the car dyno and put down some good numbers but after that the bottom end gave out. He then...
I had the same problem with my car, it would always knock at around 2.5k. I did what pers563 said and set ALS/Knck >= 2500rpm and >= 25% tps. It been fine and have not knock since I set it.
I don't know if you read this yet but it simple and straight forward. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/262460-basic-dsmlink-tuning-guide.html
Our car fuel pump kick on when we crank it to start. Your fuel pressure not holding can be from a bad diaphragm, check valve or on a 2g there a oring on the fuel pump assembly. It been a long while since I've seen a fuel pump assembly on a 1g so I can't speak for that. My car is doing the same...
I have a stock 2g one that I don't have a need for anymore. If your blow off valve is really bad and you need a new one let me know. It is free but you have to pay for shipping.
It is pretty easy when I did mine, I used a conformal coating/flux remover spray and used a desoldering iron at work. I desolder out the stock chip and solder the socket in, spray some conformal coating on it and that was it.