@19Eclipse90 Brian, I notice that this bolt isn't shown in Version 2 of the bolt torque pdf. It's in Version 1 though. There it's called a Carrier Bearing to Engine Block Bolt. No biggie, just wanted to mention it!

Even then there is some fight back from something. The bracket doesn't seem to want to move. I suppose that's because the shafts are in it. I never had both bolts entirely out at the same time because I was afraid that if the bracket did decide to move at all it would be out of position and I...

That is what it feels like when I put bolts in this thing. They fight me on the way in. I'm doing it with everything put together in the car. So the bracket, the bolts, the shafts and bearing, and the holes in the block, they are all possibly part of the problem, but if the bolts are a super...

I didn't know this fitting was such a problem until one of my bolts broke. When I found this, the passenger side bolt was still tight. The driver side bolt was broken and hanging onto itself by a whisker. That one has a spacer under the housing foot. I had not been checking the bolts for...

Yeah man take your time and get better tools if you can. I don't even do that kind of stuff at all anymore but if I did it would be bit by bit and would take a while. For me it's gotta be Easy. 🙂

I am kind of ok with it. I've gotten more acclimated to the sudden engagement so that I don't jerk the car when I shift. I do a thing that makes easy street launches less finicky - I keep the Launch Limit in ECMlink set to 3,000 rpm. That way I can just put my foot in the gas pedal as far...

My SBC ceramic disc that I showed in post #24 here measures 0.326" thick right now today. It was only in the car for 250 easy miles. There's practically no wear on it. So it was probably within a couple thou of that when new.ACT, in the install instructions that they give you with the 2700...

Ok I see $10.40 when I start from here and then pick "View Flat Rate Boxes". Phew. What's that other page I found where it shows $4.95? Is that for some kind of business accounts or something?

Yeah that sounds good! The smallest priority mail flat rate box costs $5 to send:

Hmm, Ground Advantage. When I look at that, it looks like you either have to take it to a PO for them to weigh and label it. Or you can use Click-n-Ship to do all that stuff at home and then take it to a PO and drop it into the packages hopper? Either way you gotta go to a PO right? Isn't that...

Ok, I think they also don't like a thick hard lumpy thing in an ordinary envelope. Their sorting machines you know. I'd worry about a hard lumpy metal object just sort of breaking out of the envelope and being lost forever, even if they accepted it. I don't mind paying for some better type...

🙂 Ok. That might work. USPS says a letter can be up to 1/2" thick. I'll PM my address to you in that same PM.

@CrackedDSM If Marty doesn't want that spacer, I wouldn't mind having it. The spacer I have in there looks like it was sawed off of the ac bracket. I checked the faces for parallel and it's not very good. Going around the bolt hole with a micrometer, the thickness ranges from 0.317" to...

As far as I know, the newer injector designs are mostly high-Z. And they are better, not necessarily because they are high-Z, but because they are newer designs using the most recent improvements in injector design. As for how this happened I'm not 100% sure, but I think there was a bit of...

The issue of throwing grease out, yeah I remember a thread like that. Here Gee that was a while ago already, 2018. He said his had less than 3,000 miles on it. How many miles are on yours?

I've just now found my knock sensor. It's at 6:28 🤣 Still haven't seen it in the flesh. Just in this video. It's hiding behind the coil pack bracket. I shot this yesterday and today I downloaded and installed DaVinci Resolve (free version) just so I could go through it frame by frame...

Well yes, the engine was completely different before, up to 2015. The car then was ~230 hp, stock 14b turbo, stock original internals, stock sidemount intercooler. You know, you've probably been there! The way the car was then, you can see it in my other profile, the one with the thumbnail...

Couple months ago I charted up this comparison for my own car, using Winpep7. The actual dyno runs were done in 2016. The gasoline was 92 octane, not 93. Conditions and correction factors are shown in the titling. Sorry it's vs MPH rather than RPM but it was 3rd gear in a stock type 1991-94...

Awesome. Well that nails it down for how the sensor seats. That socket turned out really well. I like it. Thanks! So many advantages to having an engine sitting around that's not in the car!

I took a good look at the Chenho knock sensor that came a couple days ago. Every physical detail that I can see looks very good. One thing I couldn't see until I tried to turn an M10 x 1.25mm nut onto it to check the threads. The nut didn't want to go on. I checked the thread with a 1.25mm...

Yes.How are you logging or seeing fuel pressure? I mean, is it just a mechanical gauge in the engine bay and somebody is there to watch it while your car is running on the dyno? Hopefully it is an electronic gauge and sensor with a gauge on the dash so you can watch it in the cabin and log it...

He's using an FMU which I had to google about cuz I didn't know anything about them either. Still don't know much. 🤣 Anyway they aren't 1 to 1. They can be a very much higher rate. At his target fuel pressures he is going way past the knee in the Walbro 255 flow vs pressure curve. But I...

Thanks for all that checking!Good idea.The Chenho sensor is also 12mm there. Is the sensor in your pics a Mitsu OEM?Sorry I've never seen this in the flesh with engine out of the car, but the face around that hole doesn't look right. It looks like as-cast. Rough as heck. It's not the...

Marty, on a 6-bolt, where does the knock sensor bottom out when you tighten it down in the block? Red arrow or green arrow?

I think if you don't already have an account at AliExpress and you go to the web page for the Chenho sensor in the next ~8 hours they will give you a price of $1.32 and free shipping 🤣 🤣 That's what I just did. They showed it as a new customer only offer, and quantity of 1 only, not more than...

This one, the Chenho, was $10 yesterday when I looked at it. Now it's $1.32 🤣This one I didn't see yesterday, but I see it is $17.77 today.But it sounds like you are saying that neither one of these is the one you bought? On your shipping updates, they would probably show the city of...

That's pretty interesting. Did you have tracking on the shipping? Wondering where the shipping to you started from. Is it a Chenho brand? I'll keep my eyes open for any updates you might have on these.Man, when I google "Ruian Chenho Auto Electric Co Lt" it gives me a ton of results. Even a...

Yes, it is a piezoelectric microphone.Yeah I think that's how it's going to turn out. I think an expensive meter like a Fluke 87 would do pretty well for the normal running (no knock) parts of it. But a meter like that costs $450 these days, and I don't know that it would pick up the knock...

I'm thinking the IAT input might not work at all for this, because maybe the knock sensor voltage is ac rather than dc. So then an ac voltmeter might be more like what you'd need (Vac on a multimeter). I can try to check this out sometime in the next week or 2 here on my car. I still have...

If you end up trying one of the non-OEM knock sensors that came up in this thread, or even trying to verify your old one for good or bad, we might be able to evaluate how close it is to a known good OEM sensor by comparing its behavior to logs like this where the knock sensor voltage has been...

Well that part of the log, from 173 sec to the end, looks good to me. I can even see there that when rpm starts to drop a little, that is when timing jumps up to a high advance. Which would help pick up the rpm. So it's like it says in the help, timing at idle is varied to help control idle...

Yeah if the valve guide IDs are just a little too big it lets the valve stems wiggle around sideways too much and your new stem seals can go downhill pretty fast, or something like that. That's what it was the only time I've ever had this. That was on a 1970 Mercedes 250 sedan gasoline motor...

I just noticed that the ? help on the RPM/TPS page says that timing at idle is varied to help control idle speed. Not just the ISC. So maybe this is where the unexpected timing numbers are coming from, and why they don't match the chart we can see. I think it would be interesting if there was...

The 17-02 log looks pretty decent. I've been looking at the part after the throttle blip where the rpm gets down into the 700's at 8.4 seconds. At the same place the wideband gets maxed out full lean (even more than maxed out - it hits 4.14 raw volts LOL) Maybe you could say that it's all weak...

Basically, your ecu cuts the fuel to 0 (InjOn) whenever you take your foot off the gas (IdleSw=1) and your rpm is greater than your target idle + FCoffset. (There is actually a delay of about 0.7 seconds to do this cut). Then as your rpm drops (foot still off the gas), the fuel is supposed to...

You might have a vacuum leak or you might have a bad ISC. I don't think you've replaced yours have you? The ISC has a test or 2 but it's almost a waste of time because a bad ISC tests good usually from what I've seen. Anyway, in this last log, the 15-18 log, it looks pretty likely that the ISC...

Yes, I think if you have it adjusted so that the closed loop trims are a little negative ("pulling") in this region just before and as you go into open loop, then, as soon as it goes into open loop it should immediately switch from trying to be stoic to running whatever your table says which...

In the install pdf they have a paragraph about the return orifice. It says "The DMR-RA is equipped with a removable flow orifice. Radium Engineering has optimized the size, shape, and material of this orifice for all single and multi-pump applications. The orifice will NOT need to be changed...

Do you know what model of fuel pump is in there? If we knew what pump it was, we could use the flow chart for it to estimate when it will be going over the edge.

You might someday want to make a heat shield for the alternator. Here's my alternator heat shield thread. It was kind of a high effort way of doing it, but it is still on the car and so is the same alternator I had then...

Yeah that picture #7 that Steve showed. My AEM wideband and the other 2 AEM gauges ground to a 6mm bolt on the same piece of sheet metal, and it seems to work fine. It's at the orange arrow in this pic:As for your wideband sensor location, 4 to 5 inches after the turbo is closer than the...

Ahh, this is something I was thinking about asking you - if the Autometer gauge agrees with the LinWideBand numbers you see in ECMlink. Sounds like you are saying that they were not agreeing when you had the Graph Item Preferences set the way they are "supposed" to be (4 volts = 1.16 lambda =...

So I just looked at the user manual for the Zeitronics ZT-3 Wideband and man they do a good job of explaining this thing I'm talking about that is vague in the Autometer manual. They show that you do it with software on your laptop which you connect with a serial cable and a splitter that they...

Just want to make sure there's nothing gone wrong in the Autometer wideband settings. As near as I can tell from the Autometer manual, you can change the volts to lambda relationship in what they call the "BGD Range Setting Mode". Then you can change that again in the ECMlink window...

It's lookin' good!Not sure but I don't think it makes any difference. I noticed that STM gives the "head cc's" on the pages where they show Wiseco pistons for the 6-bolt and the 7-bolt engines. It's in the charts they show that look like they came right out of the Wiseco catalog. They are...

Hey nice, thanks for the input! I'll add that to my Word document for my own records here on the ol' computer.

Yeah I just looked through your Specs & Photos page and your build thread, looking for photos because I wanted to see what your intercooler piping looks like - and didn't find any pictures! Or pics of your mystery turbo. Maybe it is something known, like a Kinugawa. The pics they show now...

I know, I remember that, that's why I mentioned it. Yesterday I went back through your build thread for the red car to see that pic again, so you don't have to find it for me!

Well you are very near the maximum speed line, or at least what Mitsubishi considers maximum speed, of 145,000 turbo shaft rpm. That's determined partly by tip speed of the compressor wheel exducer and rapidly falling efficiency when you go past that line, and in some cases maybe the bearings...

This thread brings new meaning to page 6 in the ACL "Race Series Application Guide 2023" where they have about half a page talking about the weird "Appearance" of these bearings when you take them out of the box. I don't think they mention embedded metal slivers though! 😝