Wouldn't let me edit. 12.5 ratio on e85 running on the gas scale.

Those are the values that it is supposed to be at, at that rpm under that load. Just because it says 10.5 doesn't mean that's what it will be. I started out tracking the data log with the table detached and the opacity nearly see through. Watched where it was while in a full throttle pull and...

Didn't see where you stated it was SD. I adjust using openloopmaxoct then copy the adjustments and paste to openloopminoct.

I had an issue getting my car to lean out not too long ago. I adjusted the maf settings so boostest closely matched my map sensor readings and then I could finally make adjustments using direct access. I haven't used the fuel sliders since v3 came out.

This is my car with about 3 inch drop with megan coilovers.Edit: Forgot to mention this was after a huge weight reduction and full poly kit.

To clarify a DSM was anything made by the conjunction of Mitsubishi and Chrysler. Which would be Mitsubishi, eagle, Plymouth. Even though everyone only sees DSM as being E/T/L there are others. Mitsubishi and Chrysler split at the end of 98. That would be why there was no talon made in 99. Only...

Many reasons why I keep mine.1. Cheaper to build then a Honda. 2. More reliable then a Honda. 3. Looks better then a Honda. 4. Required less work at 1500 miles a week then my civic. 5. Has that sweet old car smell. 6. Started everytime unlike my civic. ( until I took it apart for some...

Ok well since I'm off today I'll get another log before I need to run to campus. Do you want from initial startup through warmup and with a rev? I never noticed it threw the codes cause the light never came on. I can get one but it wont be till about 4 today before I can get it.Does it help...

There's one above. It's all in the same issue. Idles fine after start up, won't idle after throttle...It does the same thing moving that it does sitting still.

Still stalling out. i just went out and dove to get food. I noticed it's goin extremely rich when it acts up. I've tried everything I can. Does anyone know how to lean that out under 1500 through DSMLink?Ok, well I forgot I have V3 loaded on my good laptop. I went out and did a log. Here it...

I have the relocation kit and everything is fine, I just went through it the other day. Grounds are all good. I just have the ECU out of it's spot cause I had to remove my clutchcut wire.So I think I've exhausted every option other then start replacing things. The intake pipe felt loose...

Ok, yesterday I finished my install of my 60-1. After we finished we did the typical check for leaks (coolant, oil, and boost) everything came back good. Well after burping my coolant system I took the car for a test drive, well tried to. I back out of the driveway and my MPI fuse pops. I get...

I was just about to say the MAF calibration is way off. I highly doubt that he is running that minimal amount of boost. Also from the looks of the log, your IDC peaked at 117.9% which would be completely maxing your injectors out. Now if your settings are off that will change. You need to...

Lol... Theres a bracket under the car that is held in by 5 bolts. You unbolt that and angle the transmission so that the differential is pointing upwards. When you get it high enough rotate the trans so that the dowels line up and shove her in.. Cake work.

Question... Have you checked the plugs for fuel? How did you check spark? You need to crank it a few times, check for fuel on the plug. If there is fuel on the plug then it should start, or atleast backfire. No fuel means no detonation. If you have no fuel the easiest thing to do is pull your...

True. I had one that was full of coolant, don't know how it got full but it worked fine through first and stayed open through 2nd and 3rd...

1g crushed BOV FTW.. Hasn't leaked under 30 PSI so no problems...

I've always had mine hooked up from the vac. port closest to the throttle body. Have one main hose coming off with a T and on goes to the BOV and the other runs to the MBC then to the wastegate. Works fine...

Josh, it's Bobby... White 1ga.. You should still have the number, hit me up if you need some help..

Yall must not know the trick to getting the transmissions back in. Takes me barely over and hour to pull one, and take me about an hour and a half by my self to get it back in with a regular mini floor jack...

To me it sounds like there could be a couple things wrong. The plate may still be attached, some smart guy left the transfer case attached, or the splines could be rusted into the disc.. Honestly just be smart and now that you have about an inch gap, just loosen the bolts holding the pressure...

I got the car from a guy locally that replaced the CAS and it was 180* out. I run the non-turbo FPR because it runs 47 PSI base over the stock 37 PSI base that the Turbo ones run. Shortens injector deadtime, and runs the full CC's the injectors can run. Injector CC's are rated on a 43.5 PSI base...

When my transister kept coming unplugged it never threw a code. But when my injector clip broke and fell off it took it 4 miles to throw me a code while I was looking at Link trying to figure out WTH was going on.

A buddy of mine ran 280 cams in his with the 14b on stock boost and the only thing he saw is in higher revs the boost dropped off and it took longer to spool. I run 264's and a Evo3 and I love it.

Just get yourself a 6 bolt block used for about $100 with a crank (I got one) Do the 2g pistons/ 1g rods, and reuse your head, with ARP head studs and a MLS headgasket. You will have maybe at most $700 into this setup and you will be fine. For the 7 bolt head to fit the 6 bolt block you have to...

Honestly, they have some pre-made on ebay. I think they are like $15. Worth it if you ask me. I ran the 2G MAF, 550's, 255 pump, and non-turbo FPR with a E3B16G. Went, 8.99 in the 1/8th mile spinning through first and my clutch slipping in second, kinda weird but it did, and my CAS 180 out...

Look in the repair manual, assuming you have one like you should. They have the values you need to go by when checking it. You use a multimeter and go through the procedures as described in the manual..

Honestly, if you pay enough attention at the end of the video you can hear the lifters ticking. That is for sure a rod knock, never heard of valves causing anything to sound like that...

I've pulled my tranny 4 times in the last 5 months.. Sad but it needed to be done. :( Now I need another tranny...

They made 1g's with 4g63's that were not turbo.Agreed on buying a already boosted car, and boost is my anti-drug, N/A is boring...

There is an acid that they sell at most auto parts stores. You disconnect one heater hose from the core, leave the other connected but disconnect it from the water pipe. You poor a certain amount into the heater core. Let it sit and it eats away all the build up that is in the core. We use it at...

Lol, wow...

The pump is on the back of the tank towards the tail lights. Very easy to remove, if I remember correctly there are 6-8 screws the lines and connector and it's out. I would check the ECU before the pump..

Honestly, I have a EvoIII and I love it, spools quick to 20 psi with no problem, getting ready to push it and my bottom end to the limit when summer comes. If I were you and looking for a good reliable tune, and wanting to learn how to tune I would steer away from an SAFC and just go with...

x2 Crushed 1g FTW...

What a horrible relocation job... Picture number 4 goes to the BISS screw on the throttle body. I think number 2 is for the cruise control. I have the same connector in my bay from when I did my cruise delete. Picture number 3 is the fuses that are supposed to be connected to the positive...

Sounds like possibly an internal problem. Broken shift fork?

When my car kept doing that I noticed that my transistor kept coming loose. May be going bad.

Best: DSMLink for sure.. Loveing the fact everyone looks at me crazy when I say I have 1000cc injectors in a 2g/1g combo bottom end with a stock head and an EVOIII ;) keeping them guessing...Worst: Honestly I have no regrets with anything I have ever done with my car. Crushed 1G BOV FTMFW!!

I take it that wou actually had the clutch out of the car according to the above. When you had it our did you notice anything strange other then the bolt? My AWD did the same thing and what it was, I broke one of the springs in the friction disc and it wouldn't allow the pressure plate to...

DSMLink is what I have. Easy to work with and my car with 1000cc injectors idles and drives like stock. DSMLink IS coming out with a new version of it that you can use without and EEPROM. It is still in the testing stages, the main thread is on link forums.Also, the guys there and on the...

My1GLaser is correct..Shouldn't you ALREADY own a Chiltons manual? Or at least the factory repair manual? I have 3 of them incase one gets misplaced... Lol.

When I had the 550 injectors in with 255 pump and N/T FPR and the 2g MAF I got horrible gas mileage. When I upgraded to 1000cc Delphi injectors with DSMLink, there was no comparison. They idle like stock, the forums are a ton of help, and drive like a completely stock car until WOT. ;)I have a...

My 264's do the same thing... I figured it's normal..

Change head gasket now.. Coolant will wash out your bearings and cause you to spin a bearing..

Completely agree.. For some reason when I bought my 3 inch DP from punishment I couldn't get it to fit. I emailed them and they got right bak with me same day and completely helped me. I sent it back and got full refund. Great guys there, and very easily to deal with.The PR 3 inch DP has a...

So have you looked to see how much boost you have at 3k?

A buddy of mine had that problem with his, felt like no power, sounded like vtec. His timing belt jumped 3 teeth, lucky nothing got hurt..

Honestly 400whp isn't much. Just go 2g pistons 1g big rods stock crank, arp head studs, arp main studs, and rod bolts and you have a good strong bottom end. Same setup I have with stock head and I'm at right around 350whp.. Good cheap setup also.

I don't have to worry about that here... They don't check... :)