I pulled the relay but haven't had time to test anything as again work has been hectic, I just don't understand how a relay could cause something so catastrophic like this.. I'm really hoping this works, but at the same time I'm feeling there is more to it as much as I don't want to.
I'm not sure on the size of the tester fuse, but I do know that if I put power to the line where the fuel pump is there is a clicking sound that sounds like its coming from behind the radio. So what all does the black and white wire go to specifically? Is there a way to bypass or check this? I'm...
Yep, front AND rear and all designed and engineered PROPERLY for your car and not in a barnyard. This is a example why DSM's are getting a bad name now.. :banghead:
Ok so my car lost ALL power and was just making a clicking noise and my battery terminal was getting hot and so I started going through and checking what could be bad. So after I spend a lot of time going through stuff I find out my ignition switch is the problem so I snip all the wires and...
Mine is right behind the flex section basically below the firewall but a little further up. I plan on moving it to my stock o2 location soon, more accurate reading and I wanna do o2 simulation with it.
I think my booster might be bad after doing some research, I'm going to check for leaks right now.I just jacked the front up and both side are sticking and have to have force used to move them and there is no leaks in the booster
I think mine is bad, it sounded like it was dragging so I thought it needed bled and I bled it and now its like my brakes are sticking and the pedal pressure is SUPER hard and doesn't move and my E-Brake light is stuck on. Wtf..
I only bled the front, do I need to do the rear? Would this cause...
Why not just put better looking wheels on and not worry about it, I promise that setup WILL handle like shit on that car no matter what you do to it because of all the negativity in the setup.Although, I would like to see a pic of your camber wear on your old setup(front and rear).
My car is all setup for road-race/autox. Yours is set up for scrapping, scrapping, gayness, and scrapping. But I only know about straight line :hmm:
Show up at a REAL DSM meet sporting that and you'll be getting flamed and told to go park with the Honduh's or VW's. :thumb:
I'll stick with my pump+meth, I've seen what E85 does to a fuel system and its ugly. Most legitimate meth injection kits have a fail-safe feature IF the meth injection happens to cut out for any reason. With pump+meth you still get good MPG's, E85 takes away 30% of your fuel economy, you don't...
It is going to cost $10k plus for a sequential box, why not just run a auto with a shiftbox?
This company says with little modification these will work in a DSM
http://www.sqsracing.com/produkt/296:384:sqs-sequent-shifter-mitsubishi-evo
I need to buy a new cooling fan switch and cooling fan relay, maybe I'll just do that and say away with the flip switch thing. I'm just afraid I'm gonna be blowing fuses etc.
I'm currently running a Fluidyne radiator with Flex-A-Lite fans and I'm just running them off where the stock fans plugged in and they just don't seem to be pushing enough air, is it possible for me to run them straight off the battery? I already have them ran off a switch.
If anyone only knew how people from Modesto were you'd completely understand LOL, its like the butthole of CA next to Merced.
I was gonna make you a reasonable offer till I saw this thread and saw $5k for a BONE STOCK car, then I just LOL'ed and shook my head. Ridiculous to come on here trying...
Well got my extended clutch rod, and it worked! Still need to bleed the clutch a little more, and for some reason my throttle body is sticking now. But it effin works!!! :D
These turbos are not even close to being comparable, one is a tdo5 turbo and the other is a tdo6. They are both in completely different categories, why anyone would compare the two is besides me. The 68HTA is almost the same as a 20g, doubt anyone really could tell a difference. Justin was...
Its weird it builds pressure but when I start my car it feels like it loses pressure, I have replaced my master and I'll have to try pushing the rod in. Its becoming so discouraging.. :(
Its only a hard line from where the rubber used to start to the slave, before that its the stock lines. Its been on my car since I've had it and I had it pressure checked to see if its leaking and its fine.
One thing that is weird that I think there is air in the line still is sometimes it will...
How do you not need to drop the trans again to shim the pivot ball? I forgot to do mine and am suffering from it now and don't have the time to drop my trans again and need to get my car running..
Of course.. That is the main way you build pressure, I've tried to gravity bleed, pressure bleed, old fashioned bleed etc etcI'm a Ford tech I'm not stupid when it comes to working on cars lol this one just has me stumped, I've never experienced anything like this. :confused: