Alright.. So I finally got my car tuned at AMS about a month and a half ago ('99 GSX.) Its been running great since then at 22psi (You can check my profile to see the other mods.) One day I filled up with gas and went to start my car and It wouldnt stay running. It would fire up and then fumble...
I suggest that if you do all that work there shouldn't even be a question of "with or without a tune".. If you don't tune you run the risk of losing all the money you spent to make your car faster. Drop 500 bones at the nearest dyno or pick up a data logger and learn to do it yourself. Plus if...
I was real short on money when I bought mine so I went with some random crap on EBAY... At first I was a little nervous about them but they've held up real well so here's a link to basically what I bought... eBay Motors: 95-99 ECLIPSE/TALON FWD/4WD FRONT/REAR CAMBER KIT 97 98 (item 190211308909...
In my opinion 17"s are too small on DSMs because the wheel wells are just too big. I got 18 x 8's on mine and I couldn't picture it with anything smaller. I'm switchin to 19"s for the street (because they just fill in O so nicely..) My advice is to stick with at least 18's and keep anything...
I would also pick yourself up a wideband O2 gauge. A SAFC is a good controller for tuning but without knowing whats going on inside the engine it could also be a tool for catastrophe...
This post probably belongs in a different section but since I can only post in here for now I thought this is pretty cool to watch so.... Check it out. I found it on Youtube. :dsm: :talon: :laser:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVXj4ULvPJQ
This post probably belongs in a different section but since I can only post in here for now I thought this is pretty cool to watch so.... Check it out. I found it on Youtube. :dsm: :talon: :laser:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVXj4ULvPJQ
I am looking at getting some 680 injectors, but I'm am seeing a couple different spray pattern options. Any ideas on what the best is or does it even matter?(I'm looking at getting some PTE 680's here's the link if you want to check them out)...
Romeen has a good point. There is a reason they make radiators and intercoolers out of aluminum. Not to mention it will also add a bit of unwanted weight...
Alright, gotcha there but consider me a little dense on this subject WTF . How should I get the air out of the lines. Should I turn the car on and off a bunch of times before I run it for good, or something like that?
All the re-wire is going to do is make sure you have the same voltage all the way back to the pump. It will help fuel pressure stay constant on the higher RPM's, but the best thing I could suggest is to just get a new Fuel Pump. Especially if your on a tight budget. A fuel pump will cost much...
If you refer to one of my past threads http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269842 about installing my new Walbro FP, somebody said I need to be sure to prime my car before I start it. I can figure what he's getting at, but I don't know what that means... If that makes any sense. Can...
They have CF hatches and on Ebay, and they look really nice too... Most are like $500. Almost bought one myself, but decided to spend the money on my motor instead.
Its plausible. I'm pretty sure the main issue with boost creep is with the o2 housing. I know there are a hundred-bazillion threads about boost creep so just use the search feature for more positive information on that subject.
If its automatic you could upgrade to the manual 450's (injectors) If its manual you could go around 550-650s. Make sure you get yourself an AFPR and adjust fuel pressure accordingly though. I would also get a different FP like a Walbro 190 or 255. You MUST get an AFPR if you go with the 255...
I Got this from Autozone. http://www.procarcare.com/icarumba/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/icar_resourcecenter_encyclopedia_manualtran.aspDont know if it will help but extra information never hurt anybody if it doesn't. And I know we're not suppose to speculate in here, but I dont think it...
Oops. Sorry I have a FPR but forgot to list it in my profile section. Thanks for letting me catch that!And to Focker420 I'll try and post or pm some pics when I get it back. That cover looks good with everything ground off. I took a Dremel to mine which took FOREVER ha, but it should be worth...
Absolutely it will work. Anytime you increase the air-flow of your engine your going to make more power. Plain and simple. I would look at getting an o2 housing though, or at least porting your stock one down the road. Also, one of the biggest power adders I did to my car in terms of basic bolt...
16G setup is great if your just getting used to modding cause its pretty "do-it-yourself" and makes decent power. Plus it looks pretty stock to unsuspecting foes if your going for the sleeper look... Bonus!! :thumb:
Absolutely the best way to make horsepower (other than buying a DSM in general :thumb: ) is to start with the best platform possible. (ie: GSX, GS-T, Tsi ) It will be much cheaper after all is said and done, will start with much more horsepower, and the motor will be WAY more durable. If you...
Alright, so I just finished re-wiring my new Walbro 255 with the re-wire kit. I cant fire up my car to see if its working yet because I have my valve cover off to get painted.DUMB QUESTION, shouldn't I be able to hear the fuel pump fire up when I turn the key to the on position? I always...
Yeah its definitely better to just take your time and make sure you've got everything right. It's the little things like making sure you don't have any boost leaks and stuff... O also make sure you use yellow Teflon tape on all your fitting threads. That's something thats often overlooked and...
I've put in 2 different sets of lights on other cars both of which were from ebay and they swapped right in... so my guess is vice versa would work just fine. or you could just get the stock lights and if they work.. great. If they dont then you have to buy the harness. no biggy..
Alright I have a couple questions. First here's what I've just installed on my car.::Walbro 255 and re-wired it, a FP 18G, GT Manifold, custom o2 pipe, 680 injectors, and a FPR.I've got crower 272 cams and skunk 2 cam gears but Im not trusting myself to those yet so Im having AMS do those...
I did my FP 18G in a couple hours with new manifold and O2 housing... It bolts up exactly like a 16G only I couldnt re-use my water lines like they said I could. For me the hardest part was getting my O2 housing off... Be prepared to have some kind of breaker bar or something for those nuts...
what color is the smoke? If its black its running rich, and if its white its for sure a blown turbo, at least everytime in my experience... But, cant imagine dropping the clutch would blow a turbo...:confused:
this thread is for different cars but the theory is still the same... dont know if it will answer your question but it might help... Also, I just got a new clutch in my car and it does engage a little closer to the floor then my stock one did, but its not changing like yours is... maybe they...
you could also hack your stock maf to get more power, if you decide to leave it on. If you plan on staying under 660 injectors it might not hurt to get the maf-t as it will be a way to tune the car also. But it is kind of pointless to do it just for noise. You can Ebay a used GM Maf for like...
I had the same problem.. Turns out I had a leak in my cooling system by my overflow tank. I replaced the tank and it never happened again. I would start narrowing down where you could have a possible leak and start from there.
I just replaced my stock T25 with a FP 18G and they said my stock water lines are supposed to be re-used but i tried and they dont even come close to fitting and I want to buy new stainless lines anyways, but I dont know what size to get. So far everything I find is measured in "AN". Does...
I have a 3" turbo back, intake, huge greddy 24v intercooler w/ complete piping, downpipe, and a MAF-T with just the base settings and only finally started hitting fuel cut. I'd say your safe for a while but like somebody said get yourself some kind of management system like a SAFC for example...
Yeah... You can pick up an old 1G if your lucky for like $1500. will be a lot more worth while. especially if you want to do any kind of racing. The money you spend swapping in a motor you could just put into a car that already has a turbo. :thumb:
Most springs aren't supposed to sack out more than like a quarter inch over the warranty period.... And even thats pushing it. Id say thats the way there going to stay.
My buddy had that exact setup and absolutely loved it. I had the pro kits for a while on my old car and they were nice but i wanted something a little more aggressive so switched to the sportlines... either way you cant go wrong though, great stuff.
well first of all if its stainless it shouldn't rust, and at the very least if you HAVE to paint it get some high temp engine paint from autozone, wal-mart, etc. Cant imagine it sticking very well though...
Mmmm..All NA cars were made by Chrysler so... yeah... if your on a budget i wouldn't suggest it. My friend dumped at least a thousand a year on his just to keep it on the road. But I guess that doesnt mean you cant get lucky ; )
Well air tools for one are a must. I never would have been able to do mine if I didnt have them. Also some kind of spring compressor. You can rent them from Autozone for not that much. And yes, LOTS of PB Blaster and Anti Seize EVERYTHING!!Front suspension:STRUTUpper mounting nuts 33...
What size are your rims? I have 18x8 Tenzo GT-5's on my GSX and Its lowered more than that... Another option is to get some kind of camber adjustment and angle the wheels in a little. Maybe a little would be all you need.