:Well guys tuned my car to 30psi on the holset and the best I did today was a [email protected] with my intercooler pipe blowing off a little before I got to the 1/4 mark and shifting normally. My other runs I was having problem with my 2 step giving me alot of knock pulling enough timing where I...

I'll probably turn it up if I fix my clutch problem and decide to take it to the track again. Yeah your right it is in the tune. I was knocking because I was running so rich @32 psi which I'm sure caused my head gasket to fail.

Nice. Yeah I really should be getting a better 60'. I wanted to log to see what was going on when launching but my data logger was dead and I lost the charger:ohdamn: What do you guys do about tire pressure on street tires when you go to the track and does it matter?

Yeah I think I should have tried to launch normal and see what my 60' would have been. What makes me made is my dad showed me one of his time slips when his srt-4 was stock and he pulled off a 1.35 60'. I have it at a lower boost right now because I have not had time to tune it and I totally...

Well guys second time at the track and first time with the new setup. This was my best time slip:barf: [email protected] weighing in at 3095lbs R/T .147 60 2.200 330 6.163 1/8 9.308 MPH 82.05 1000 11.921Yeah I know the 60' is really bad. I was launching at 5250 building ~6-7psi...

I'm not sure how much 2g eprom ecus socketed with a chip or the flashable ecus+cable cost these days but if you really just want 2step check this out it might be a cheaper alternative:thumb:. I'm pretty sure it works on all dsm's. wotbox - www2

Well I guess my tranny isn't messed up so I'm going to stick with awd. Maybe someday I will just buy a gst.

Really man your posts don't help anyone:notgood: You would think it would make sense if I had any slop between the hub and input shaft. From Team rip INPUT SHAFT SPLINE WEARThe spline wear is the result of the clutch disc not enough having enough spline length making contact with the input...

Yeah thats true awd are heavier but with my transfer case, driveshaft, passenger seat, rear seats+seat belts all gone i'm not that far from a 1g gs-t's full weight. But what I want is more power to the wheels, which im thinking will be at least 10-15% more and I want that top end so I can pull...

So my input shaft is toast and I'm thinking of buying another tsi tranny. I want to get the center and front diff welded so I can take off the transfer case with the driveshaft so I'm fwd:D Before I do this I just want to make sure this isn't a waste of time. What I really want to know is are...

I'm 100% sure the input shaft has stripped with the fourth order harmonics not being dampened by springs and increased with my 12lb flywheel/not so steady idle/stock mounts. I'll post pics when I get it out.

Well im getting really tired of working on this car:banghead: When I first put the XTD Stage 4 clutch in it wasn't making any noises at idle and lately after about ~1000k on it, it starts to make a knocking sound at idle. I really thought this was normal and just clutch chatter. Then last night...

Cool Yeah I think its just chatter because it only does it when at an idle.:thumb: Thanks

OK so I just put on a XTD Stage 4 6 puck unsprung ~1.5k miles ago and it shifts fine, engages perfect, and still holds my 370+whp. Whats wierd is it started just recently to knock when the clutch pedal is depressed and when the clutch is pushed in it stops. Is this normal for a unsprung 6 puck?

Love my stage 4 too. 1k on mine and holds all the power that my hx35 is putting out on 32psi:thumb:

I'm in the process on putting my hx35 on and that coolant line going to the ofh was in the way so I took it off. I was wondering if it is ok to run the car with the water cooled housing, without any coolant lines hooked up because I would rather leave that housing on than buying an oil cooled one.

You should at the least buy a logger before upping the boost. My friend was able to boost 30psi with an evo 3 16g on his stock injectors with a walbro 255, Adjustable fuel pressure regulator at 43.5psi base, and one of the honeycombs removed out of his 1g maf. I don't condone doing this but it...

Can I just cut it and leave the bottom part on?

So I have been having the loudest buzzing sound at 2000rpm + and it's so annoying. Its because a bolt was stipped in the tranny and the transmission shield is buzzing. So what would be the easiest way to take this off and is anyone running with their tranny shield off?

So I got my bep housingI also got my ebay tubular o2 housing with the dump tube and both tial inlet/outlet flange+outlet clamp Should have my -4an oil line with the adapter from extreme psi in a couple of days. I've decided since I allready have a 2g oil drain I am going to make a drain to...

thank you sir:thumb:So that bolt I got is to big m10x1.25. I'm talking about the bolt that goes into the tranny.

So I need to know what the bolt size is for a tranny bolt that is right below the rear engine mount and screws into the tranny from the drivers size.I think its this one

Alright I'll get you guys a video. Still can't figure out what it is but im thinking it might be the transmission shield or something metal vibratingIt almost sounds like it's coming from inside the intake manifoldWTF...

Dude its so loud that I can hear it outside the car when I'm driving and It seems like it makes the most noise at around 2500 rpm. I keep trying to pinpoint the noise with the tb while the hood is open but I cant find it. Could it be a balance shaft bearing?

Well I cant figure out where this loud rattling is coming from but I know its somewhere between the firewall and the engine. I allready took off all the heat shields on the exhaust:mad: It's so annoying and it doesn't rattle at idle.

Yes with ostrich you can compensate for those larger injectors.

Ok thanks I'll keep it bypassed. Right now I have my injector comp set at 560cc for my 880cc at about 43.5 base pressure for e85. At wot i'm seeing 11.8-12.0 but I was watching my wideband the other day and when I got to a higher rpm( like 5000+ I started to lean out to like 13-14. I shouldn't...

So I've been having problems with being lean at wot on e85. Today I got on it in first and got a loud pop. I'm thinking this was a lean missfire and I noticed that my vacuum line going to my afpr was still connected to the fuel pressure solenoid. I bypassed the fps and just hooked up the vacuum...

Oh yeah I didn't mention it but I'm going to feed from the oil filter housing with that 4 an line and restrictor.

Got the 44mm because I got a good deal on it and I do plan on running the 13 spring that is in it for now until I get the supporting mods to run above 20. So I'm thinking 1200cc injectors, 4 spider diff, and a southbend clutch.

Well just an update I ordered a bep bolt on housing and got some other parts for the holset. Heres some picsNos .078 Jet for -4 an lineTial 44mmI still am concerned about the return line being to small if I buy a -10 an so I might just pick up another oil pan and get a -12 an...

Well I retorqued the stock ones and three tightened when i went from 50lbs to 60lbs. They are all torqued now at 80lbs. I think your right rstchris. The ring probably got jacked when it first leaked so i will replace the headgasket with arps soon. Thanks guys for all the help

Ok man thanks i'm just going to put the arp's in one by one and see if it helps.:thumb: People have told me that you can install arp's with the head on one by one and others tell me no don't do it so i guess i'll try it.

Ok well i'll just wait to put the arps on when i put the composite headgasket on. So before I put my valve cover on should I check the torque on each at about 75lbs?

Well I have a felpro composite headgasket and brand new arp headstuds just don't want to do a headgasket. I have a 5 layer metal one on right now and its seen the same boost and didn't push any coolant. Can I get away with installing the arp headstuds and see if it stops?

why not if they might have been vibrated loose

So I have my valve cover off right now and i want to retorque my 6 bolt stock headstuds. I have been pushing coolant lately at like 10-19 psi and i think my solid welded motor mounts are to blame. What should I torque them down to and is the socket i need a 10mm allen socket? Thanks

I'm running a t-28 on my tsi. They are good turbos and I'm sure you can get 300 whp. I'm running 19psi on e85 and it feels crazy fast.

So when i bought the car the previous owner installed a 5 layer metal head gasket. It has been running great for like 5 years on 14psi and has seen 18psi but recently i was pushing 19 psi with a peak timing of 22 on e85 and i starting pushing coolant and my temp would go up really fast. I'm not...

Ok so I have an apexi avcr boost controller but i do not have the harness that hooks up to the avcr plug, the boost control solenoid and pressure sensor. Can anyone help me out and tell me how I can wire this thing up?

its the 7 blade.

Ok so i'm going to feed the turbo from the head with a -4an line and buy a -10an return line kit from extremepsi. Where can i find a 90 degree fitting that screws into the head and has the -4an? I really want to buy the ebay dnp knockoff manifold because i know the hx35 will clear everything...

Alright thanks:thumb: I put the old one back on and its tight

So should i buy an oil pressure gauge and hook it up to the head and then the ofh to see what pressure my car has at the two locations? I really don't want my holset to fry because of two less or two much pressure, so to be safe should i have a restrictor if i run the feed line from the ofh.

Ok so i still have m balance shafts in and i want to know if i can run a -4 an line to the turbo and a -10 an return line? Would this be ok?

So i have a holset hx35 with the t3 12cm^2 housing. I am going to buy the ebay dnp knockoff manifold and an 38mm emusa wastegate. I have been reading but cant figure out what i need for the oil feed and return line. I dont have the part that bolts up to turbo for the return line. Can anyone...

so the guy said it was rebuilt 1500 miles ago by holset and it has the alignment marks on the nut but it does not have any oil in it. Can i just pour some oil in it and then check the play again? I really thought they shouldn't have any shaft play even without oil?

ok i will get a vid up tomarrow

I just bought a holset hx35 and it has shaft play. The guy told me it will go away with oil pressure:confused:

I want to know if anyone can tell me how to replace pintle caps? I'm working with pte 880cc injectorsDammit I broke oneLOL Can i put the old pintle cap back on if it is in good condition?