I would check the TPS first.If it is reading closed while you driving and have the throttle opened the ecu would have a hard time figuring out why the MAF is reading so much air with a closed throttle. The ECU could have leaned your injectors out. Lean conditions can cause knock and could...
You said you will have 2k save up before you sell the car. I know around here in KY on craigslist you can buy a decent car for around $1000. Start looking for a cheap Honda or Toyota. I recently found a 91 Camry for one of my friends he paid $1100 for it had high miles and a lil body damage (a...
You would not be able to tell if you have bent valve by taking off the valve pan cover. You have to do a compression test or pull the head. If the belt broke it is almost a 100 percent guarantee that you have valve damage.When trying to start the car does it seem to crank faster than it used...
Ok So I have had my car for about a month. The problem is when I shift fast the car does not pull it is like i don't have the throttle pushed at all. I can let off and hit again and sometimes it will pick up slowly. Most of the time I have to let off and ease back into it and it still cuts in...
Everyone is pushing maintenance because it is the reason these cars get such a bad rap. Everyone wants to make them fast and overlooks what needs to be done. If you have done all the maintenance then start modding. It looks to me that your pretty set on what you want to get. Your the only one...
I had been looking for a good deal on a clean shell because i didn't think that i would find one running for the money i had to spend. I had been looking since July of last year for the right deal. Like the ol saying goes good things come to those who wait. lolI let the guy who passed on the...
Well i have been with out a DSM for almost a year until last week. Had Fellow DSM'er call me and say he found a car but he was afraid to buy it because of a tick/knock in the motor.It was a 91 talon TSI AWD for $600.I said I will buy it with out ever seeing the car. What is life if ya...
It looks like it has quit a bit of heat marks and some cracks so I would get it done. Resurfacing the flywheel is an cheap way of get the most life out of you new clutch to help it seat with it better.
I just bought another 1g it has a chipped ecu for 550's but the car only has 450's in it. How lean is this going to make the car run. I know they run rich with the stock ecu. So do you all think the car will be alright to drive.
A GST should already have the turbo 2.0 (4G63)in it, GS and RS have a non turbo 2.0 (420A) in them. That is the engine they come with. Some Spyders come with the 4g63 in them also.
The only thing that i know that would cause that would be if it jumped time and messed up some valves in each of the cylinders. If you can't get the head off you could pull the valve cover and look for rocker arms out of place.
Every one on here will have a different option on that. Some will say go for it and some will say your stupid for trying it. I have done it with the only consequence being fuel cut. In the end it is your car and your choice. More than likely if it is something you really want to do you will do...
Some people say that you can get away with 510cc injectors by upgrading to a 2g mas. I personal would not do 550cc or 510cc with out at least an AFC. It does not matter how high you turn your boost you will still be pig rich at idle and at lower RPMs when there is little to no boost. Rich...
Never once did I say that I am a DSM GOD (lol) I'm no where close.But when I was a newb I was misslead into buy the wrong part (ECU) and when i found the real problem (MAS) and that was after the the wrong part was bought and istalled. I did have the money for the part that i needed to fix...
I had the 235/55 (if I remeber right) SP Sport 8000 on my first 1g and loved them. They were about 4" wider than the wheel but I really liked the way they looked and I had good luck with them hooking.
I haven't had the Kumho's so i don't know if they are better or not.
Dude you were just telling him what part he needed to buy next. Not what was going to fix his problem. Like I said he did need the part. Did you not read my post when I said run it straight with out of the controller and see what happens. That would have showed him that it was the controller...
That is why I was wanting you to take it out of the loop to see if it still done it. Sorry that some people misinformed you to were you bought a part that wasn't going to fix the problem, but you needed it anyway. So it wasn't wasted money.
Yeah if the waste gate is not opening then the boost will be off the charts. But if under WOT the waste gate is coming open because of more exhaust pressure then easing into the throttle it would not boost propely. Is there any black smoke coming from you exhaust when this happens. If was...
The factory solenoid is not needed. Just run a vac line straight to you waste gate. I was talking about the aftermarket one raising it 1.1 not the factory one sorry should have been a lil more clear.
What kind of kit did you install. If it is a cheaper kit then they are known for doing this. Some people say to spray hair spray on the piping then clamp the coupler on. I have never done this but have seen many people have good luck out of it.
When I first bought my 1g if it was cold it was impossible to start. It was hard to start after sitting a few hours. It ran fine the rest of the time. I replaced my mas and the temp sensor and the problem went away. You may check those things.
The reason I don't think the condition is being caused by just the lack of an AFPR is the you base pressure is 43psi but it is an 1.1 so for every pound of boost it raises 1 pound of fuel pressure so by the time you hit 10psi of boost your fuel pressure would be at 53psi. That is why it causes...
I think that it may be your waste gate. Porting may also help some. Have you tried removing you boost controller and running it on stock pressure. If it still does it then I would check out the waste gate. If you still have your 14b the waste gate off it will work you may try putting it on...
Since that is where the leak is i would get the SS line to replace the factory rubber one. Replacing that line would fix the problem and hold up better. They are not the costly.
The afpr will help but I think there is more that is making it not boost. I would also check you waste gate. The fuel pressure will have cause a rich condition at idle but not as bad at WOT. Does it do this in other gears as well or just 2nd.
Check the turbo pull off the intake tube that goes onto the inlet of the turbo and see if it has any in and out or up and down shaft play. If it has a considerable amount of play then there is a good chance of the smoke coming from the turbo.
If a 2g is like a 1g then the fuel pump will not run unless the engine is actually cranking. Have you check to see if there is coolant in the oil (just a thought lol).
Honestly if you have to ask how to do something like this that tells me that you would not be able to do it. Because it will take a ton of fabrication and still may not look right when your done because you would more than likely have them going into the rear bumper cover because i am pretty...
To check for a vacuum leak you can get a can of carb cleaner and spray around your vac lines and if the car revs up then you know you leak is in that area. As far as doing a boost leak test use the search feature (how to do a boost leak test) and you will find some helpful write ups on how to...