Ok i took a look yesterday, and yes the shims are there. After doing many brake jobs in the past on various cars, i tend to forget the lesser things in the assembly. Plus getting older... So, my plan of attack from here is to get the car hot and immediately jack up the car and rotate, wobble...

I dont recall any shims during the assembly. But wouldnt that grind all the time if it was at an angle, and not just after 10-15 mins of driving?

Ive got a grinding sound during braking, but it only happens after at least about 15 mins of driving and never before that. I was thinking the CV axle so i replaced the driver side because i found a torn inner boot, but didnt make a difference, grinding noise is still there. I recently...

2g Magnecore wires - $40

Here you go, pdf version AC diagrams for 95 GSX

Brand new ignition control module, fits 2g turbo models. Still in original sealed wrapping.Price - $90 + shipping

Have you looked into the catalytic? They do fail, especially when people ignore the CEL for misfire codes

Im one that doesnt like the idea of over-injectoring. Reason being atomization... A correctly sized injector will spray a finer mist and have better combustion and knock prevention than a setup with overly large injectors that are choked down using less pulse-width. When tuning on the edge every...

Been on for almost a week now.. So far so good, no CEL

For those having a problem locating a replacement FPS (myself included), I may have found an alternative. These below are for a 00-03 Mazda Protege EGR solenoid. The one on the left matches a DSM configuration exactly and is about $20, the one on the right has the inlet port on the opposite side...

Yes i already did the volt meter test, engine running is 12.2V which tells me alternator is fried. What im worried about is when i install a new alternator and if something else is still wet and drawing a lot of current, then my new alternator will also fail

Fuse is not blown, no leaks or corrosion. Car drove perfect before the hose let go, I can give the battery a charge and still drive it around, just not charging. I will locate an alternator soon and hope for the best

If you just replace it with a hose you will run lower than stock boost (Perfectly fine, but slow) It is supposed to run to a T-fitting that bleeds off some pressure into the intake tubing

the coolant hose on the top of the radiator pulled off on my 2g gst. Car didnt even get that hot before i caught it. Pulled over and reinstalled the hose and cranked it tighter, filled it back up and everything is fine there. But now the after effect, the spray of coolant got to the alternator...

I too cannot get rid of the P1105, even after another known good FPS. Mine always pops up after 2-3 hot starts, example pulling over to get gas and restarting the car when its fully warmed up, or going into a store and come back out after 20 mins and start the car... P1105. But if i only do cold...

runs fine, but just slow? Check engine compression

White is my number one choice, but the Durango Copper color has my attention

Well ive been driving it for a week now and the CEL hasnt come back on. It has never lasted this long without getting a CEL. I havent made any corrections, just swapped parts around to see if it moves to another cyl. I should note that when i was checking the injector resistance on Cyl #1 the...

I would like someone to build In-Hub electric motors to fit on the rear of a GST. This would give the fwd cars an instant AWD conversion in hybrid form, and it might even help with MPG. Ive seen it on a prototype Electric Evo /Lancer that never came to fruition

Over the weekend i swapped #1 with #4 injector. I also swapped the coils. The CEL hasnt come back on yet. Ill see in the next few days

The power transistor is sometimes referred to as ignition module, already did that. The cam sensor has to do with the timing of the spark. I do believe that if they fail the car wouldnt run at all and not be specific to Cyl #1, but im trying to cover all basis as ive read that they can...

changed out the ignition module and no change. I did swap to 660cc injectors a few months ago so maybe theyre defective. This weekend ill swap injectors or maybe go back to my 560cc, test cam and crank sensors.

That is a very interesting read there. What id really like is an aftermarket 6-speed trans, auto or manual

On 2nd thought i will look at crank sensor LAST, it is the most difficult to replace. This weekend I will do the cam sensor testing, injector swap, coil, and lastly the crank sensor :) And thanks for the test procedures

Man I have those exact same symptoms, always pops up every 2 days while warming it up. One time it lasted 3 days. I did the plugs and wires and made no difference.I thought I had it when I did the ignition module but after 5 days it returned. Gonna look into the crank sensor next and then the...

Are the 1-4 coils interchangeable with the 2-3 coils? Im getting a P0301 code, ive swapped plugs around and changed out the wires and still getting the same code. Thinking coils but dont want to make a purchase without ensuring its the coils. My question is, would i have a code P0304 for cyl 4...

there are so many mods out there for improving horsepower and torque and drivetrain, but why arent mods made for fuel economy? What is it with new cars that allow it 35+ mpg? Why cant you take an old car and retrofit components and match the economy of newer cars, just as we do with adding...

If it's daily driven, you might appreciate the better gas mileage of the 9:1

Dying fuel pump would be another thing to check. Maybe enough fuel for idle but cant sustain the needed pressures when RPMs rise. It may well be ECU, i was just suggesting that i wouldnt be so quick to jump into ECU after only a TPS testBad wastegate would simply be lazy to build boost or...

There are tons of other tests to try before suggesting ECU replacement. OP dont just guess & throw money at it. Boost leak test, CAM/CAS sensors, coils, firing order... Or how about try an OEM MAF first

The oem line from head to turbo is steel, whats wrong with going that route?

My Roadrace catback goes under. Doesnt ever scrape, but its also only 2.5" piping

I get a P1105 code (FPS) after several warm starts. Example...If Im driving and car gets fully warm, i shut it off to get gas, and then pick up my son at school, shut it off while i wait. Restart and i get a P1105. But if i start it up cold and just go to work and restart it up 8 hours later...

So where should we ground the MTX-L wideband? And can i keep my positive source tapped off the OEM fuel pump relay? Since its a popular mod to the the fuel pump rewire, the oem fuel pump relay is now only being used to trigger the aftermarket relay, so i see no interference to tap my positive...

The ground is tapped to the negative of the cig lighter, the positive is tapped at the oem fuel pump relay. I chose this positive so that the WB turns on with the engine running rather than the ACC ign key position

So which reading would you trust? The digital gauge or the output voltage?

I have an Innovate MTX-L wideband. The analog WB output is connected to my rear O2 and the output voltages im getting are between 1.08V and 1.24V. Using the formula V x 3.008 +7.35V equates to between 10.6 to 11.0 AFRs, but my wideband gauge reads between 10.0 to 10.4. Is the formula not correct...

Youve just about covered all the outputs from the ECU all the way down to the injectors. Its time to start concentrating on inputs, such as the MAF causing an over driven injector... especially since its not the same injector failing all the time. Does the car run rich when run or does it fail...

Holy $heesh!!! If you insist on that setup i would enter the intercooler on the passenger side, exit on the driver side... Look at my avatar

Taken from another thread >> http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/setting-base-ignition-timing.423314/

Not at a certain RPM, but rather when under moderate load. And when it would fail I restart after 5-10 mins and run normal again. I stayed off boost for almost a week until my part arrived but I was able to drive to & from work to get by

Sounds similar to my problem couple years ago, runs normal after letting it cool down... Turned out to be the ignition control module. Has happened to 2 different DSMs that ive owned with the same symptoms, let it cool down for a few mins and its good again for a while

I had that same idea a while back and thought of the 10 ga wire going to 16 ga wire on the other side of the connector so I rewired it as well to i think a 14 ga. I also rewired the ground with a ~20" length to the rear seat bracket or seat belt bolt. I actually think the 10 ga is overkill for...

I tapped my power source of the fuel pump circuit. I dont like the gauges to be powered up when the key is on the ACC position when tapping from the cig lighter.

Looking for OEM cat & downpipe for 2g GST or TSi, must be in good and undamaged condition.

As long as your cooling system is up to snuff. I havent had problems with AC and an FMIC, but i do read about others that do. Ive got an OEM radiator. My coolant temps peak at around 216° summer day with AC running. But if you are having cooling problems, I would still keep the AC and go with an...

He has already mentioned several times he did a boost leak test.Since it ran perfect with the old turbo, you really got to focus on the new turbo itself, granted its possible for other things to cause it, but not likely. The fact that its able to create SOME boost tells me its a wastegate...

The Injen pipe is long, the filter will end up cramped up against the fender well area. Also the recirc tube is at a different location compared to 1Gs

You can remove the BOV line at the intake manifold and spray through there, you dont need it to run and idle, you just want to see if it will fire up for a second

You shouldnt have constant 12V at the injectors, otherwise they would never stop spraying. In no start conditions i always begin with narrowing it down to fuel or ignition. Fuel is easiest for me by spraying starting fluid while cranking, if it fires up you have fuel related issues, if still not...