I'm not 100% sure, the crank spins and the cams don't, i cut the old belt and wasn't able to pull it up. My theory is one of the pulleys striped the belt.I got into the Bay and honestly I'm just going to replace it. The oil pan is dented, the entire bottom end of the engine is caked in oil...
I've never actually done a leakdown test, how would i make sure the valves are fully closed (assuming they aren't bent)?Would i just remove the cam shafts before doing the test? The car currently has no starter or timing belt on it.
I'm buying a freshly rebuilt engine from a fellow dsm builder so I'll probably just wait and tear down the engine when it's out of the car.I thought maybe i could salvage this engine but from the sound of it i can't so i might as well just pull it for the rebuilt one since the rebuilt one has...
Timing belt broke a few years ago and while getting ready to pull and replace the engine i decided to pull the valve cover and i noticed that none of the valve lashes were loose and i couldn't move any of them by hand as you sometimes can when a valve is bent. They were all snug against the cam...
Just curious before I take them out and throw them on if any of them would be ruined by being stored in a non heated garage over the winter, I am not 100% sure all of it was but some was I think (guy who stored my stuff turns off heat in winter apparently).Would be timing belt kit, 1g bov...
Who cares the earth either ends or it doesn't we all die sooner or later.2012 has been methodically proven wrong by thousands of researchers and scientists so if you are basing it on that then LOL.PROTIP: Planets align every December every year
Yea I am not an electrician but I am pretty sure the heat of the plug has little to do with the current the coilpack is providing and more with the gap and the material in the head.
the TL;DR from what I gathered is the mustang owner thinks the more boost you use the hotter you have to run the plugs which makes coilpacks work harder and makes them break fasterI also only skimmed it
Have to say if these were priced lower (mass produced) I wouldn't think twice about buying oneThe Roadster's 0 to 60 mph (097 km/h) acceleration time is 3.9 seconds for the Standard Model and 3.7 seconds for the 2010 Sport Model. MotorTrend, which performed the first independent...
Yep, valve cover, head, oil pan and block, work top to bottom it should help you pinpoint the area, done it before tons of times when I was working as a tech.
This isn't even a question they are two completely different cars.Do you want a FWD turbo neon or a sports car? That's oversimplified yes but its what it boils down too, one is a purpose made car the other is an upgraded family car.350z looks better handles better has a better interior...
I wouldn't buy it, previous owner is venting to atmosphere for one so who knows what other hackjob stuff is done to it.Also you should be able to find a much better deal on a 1g with no problems.
Am I the only one that still mods cars I have no intention of racing? My current 98 talon is a DD and I am modding it but I have absolutely no intention of it ever seeing a hard launch.I do plan to mod a 1g for the track and have a 64 falcon for the track but am I the only one who spends...
Uhh, now that SRT4's are aging they are breaking down like crazy. DSM's aren't unreliable, the 4g63 is still one of the most bullet proof engines made. Stupid kids and dumb owners make DSM's unreliable.
So I think rims CF hood and 2'' lowering and I'm done with modding after that, make it nice enough to stand out and get out of the game. Pick up an early 90's f150 for a DD and call it a day.Thread has indirectly made me realize how much of a waste of time this is.
If I didn't mod DSM's I would be moved out of my parents basement, this makes me very sad seeing as I work a full time job already, but instead of buying a place I bought the car and mods.
Money wise?I long for the day when I am satisfied driving whatever and really almost want to force myself out of the game and just buy a reliable bulletproof DD but every time I think man could I live with myself when I pull up in a shit box.I dunno lately I have been feeling there is...
Our cars aren't made to be vented to the atmosphere, the air you are venting is already metered by the MAS and now you are removing it without accounting for its loss, it will make you car run significantly worse all the time.
Well its crunch time and I need to decide if I am going to paint the 2g, the car itself has no real rust just some on the door edge where rocks caught it and a little on the insides of the wheel wells again from rocks.So I got quoted about 5000$ for a color change (paid 6100$ for the car:|)...
Maintenance is done and the car doesn't seem to be running bad, I was just more curious if all the power in these cars is up in the 4.5k+ RPM range as I have never really stomped on it to redline.This is going WOT at about 2.5k cruising in 3rd, power hits at about 3.2k 10 seconds is an...
Being that this is my first turbo DSM, I have noticed that when I am driving around town if I go WOT in 3rd at 2.5k RPM i have next to no power for a good 10 seconds then it really takes off.Is this normal for a DSM? is it just a lack of outside boost torque?I haven't actually launched...
Actually a couple1) does the TB/jpipe require gaskets or anything or is it just bolt up2) in the install manual they keep reffering to the bypass valve which I am assuming is the BOV?
Yea I was just goint to useAEM No-Weld O2 Sensor Mount 2.25-2.5 inch exhaustFor the time being since I am on stock exhaust and have no ecmlink/afsc or anything
Stupid question but do I run it through the center console and out or does it run under the carpet, I haven't really worked with the ECU as of yet as I am newish to tuning properly :coy:
Hmm, I thought I had read that there is a place you can run it without drilling but I guess not :cry:*edit* There it is, Yea this is what I will use. I take it I will have to drop the seat to get to it? or whats the least hackjob way of running it through here.
I should add I know how to wire the power properly I was more concerned with how and where to wire the datalogging and ECU stuff.Where through the firewall did you run it? its way to thick for the steering boot like I did with the boost gauge. I could do the throttle sensor grommit but its...
And realized I have absolutely no idea how to wire it properly. I don't have an Eprom ECU and I am not 100% sure I am going to get one however I do want to be able to tune one day.I figured for mounting since I am changing exhaust next summer I am going to drill a hole and use the AEM temp...
yea I ended up using 16g, I had already wired the 12g to the back of the gauge and mounted it so I wasn't about to refish wire and reconnect that since it was getting dark and I needed the car for work the next morning.I installed spade connectors and soldered the 16g to the dimmer left about...
I was using 12 gauge but it seems extremely large for what I am doing (wiring to the dimmer switch) should I just go ahead and use it? or use smaller wire? the dimmer switch wires are about 1/5th the size of the 12 AWG
Well like you said the dejon provides more HP and I never plan to go bigger then a 16g, at least not for a few years, hell staying with the t-25 for a year at least.Dejon provides the most bolt on solution with the best MAS positioning, other options need modifications for all of them.DEJON...
For boost gauges and what not, I did 9 oclock on the steering boot, was going to use the gromet that crosses for the spedo but the wire was to short :(
Fish wire through stuff, I used clothes hangers to do the wiring for my boost gauge but it scratched the hell out of the interior paint and was a pain in the ass.I found the best way was to make a loop in the end of the wire and then fish it into the place you want to start then hook it...