My vote goes to running too lean under boost. Unless you've been throwing some race fuel down it's throat. Carbon build up is normal and should be expected. But, it should be relatively even across the top of the piston.

How much boost creep is normal for a tight system with a big 16G. I'm having trouble controlling mine also. I've tested my BOV and WG actuator. Under full throttle I can't keep it under 15lbs. All upgrades noted in profile.

Did you reset the computer after installing the new CAS.. You'll need to.

Dude, pull up HKS website and download a manual.......:confused: At least that way you can review the set up.

Did it run fine until you replaced the CAS and rewired it? I would not suspect the bump as a problem with ignition.

Bored; at work....

I'm thinking about selling my DSM, not sure if I can part with the performance though. Check profile, make me an offer.

:notgood: I agree with this statement. I certainly would not entertain that as a good practice for a daily driver or track queen.A trailer queen or show car: maybe.

I break my engines in the way I intend to run them. Never had any problems.

in/out play is normal, if you can't decide which side is making the clicking, jack it up and put it on jack stands, set parking and have someone listen out front while you turn the wheel from stop to stop with the car running and in gear and clutch out (if equipped) Please play it safe.

You're most certainly going to want to do the head gasket and timing set and gaskets. You should consider doing rod and main bearings throughout since you're already there. They are fairly cheap (relatively) and can be done without removing the engine or transmission.If your budget allows...

You're gonna need a good electrician. Aren't many of those wires on the ECU calibrated for a certain resistance?:confused:

That's pretty hot. I like the chrome on that color. Looks sweet.

Actually I think I saw a 96 GSX in raliegh craigslist.

I would definitely fix her up. It would be an awesome winter project.

headlights..... I wish my paint looked that good.

Do you have fire to the plugs when you are cranking it? If not, I would suspect a coil malfunction.

As long as you're not changing the other end of the circuit too. You should be fine with using slightly larger gauge wire to make the connections. Your switches are rated high enough. If your changing more than switches I would measure the amp draw on the circuit while it was maxed out and...

May not be the best policy, but I consider it normal for a turbo car to smoke some after it's been left to idle. If you don't experience any smoke on start up after sitting for at least eight hours, I would definitely be leaning toward the turbo seals.

Must be nice to have that kind of cash to throw around. Especially in Louisville.

Are you leak testing at 0deg TDC? If not, your valves will be at least paritally open.

:notgood::notgood::notgood::notgood:Danger Will Robinson, Danger. Be aware that the part number he has listed crosses to a National brand FWD part. Not what you are looking for.Check this supplier. 1995 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GSX Axle Bearing and Hub AssemblyEDIT: Not saying this is...

Check your WGA for proper operation, if that checks out, set the engine to TDC and pull the spark plugs and listen for the air leak at the spark plugs(to help isolate the leak). If you don't really hear anything out the spark plug holes, I would say you have a badly cracked turbo/waste gate...

Need more info. Is it stalling at idle, off throttle, on throttle, while stopping, when it's cold, after it's warmed up? Sounds like a line from a movie. Help us help you. The quality of response you get depends greatly on what you put in your post and detailed your information is.

Is that the timing cover end? Those look like tool marks. (Screwdriver)WTF I would have a hard time convincing myself to run that one although the potential to cause damage should be negligible as long as the rest polishes out pretty well.

Your Center diff is actually in the trans. It doesn't sound like you're gonna have any real damage if he stopped right away. Don't panic too much until you get it fired up again and can run a couple of test runs.EDIT: You wouldn't be able to inspect the center diff without pulling it...

I think any problem you have will be limited to the transfer case and trans. Sounds like possibly your center diff locked up in limited slip fashion and maybe he didn't drag it far enough to hurt it. You would have likely heard something when your buddy towed you home if the jerk did any real...

Manual Boost Controller? disconnected? Don't jump to conclusions yet my friend. It might not have anything to do with the valves. It is better to leak test at TDC.I always disconnect my MBC and plug the line to it. I also disconnect the tubing going to the PVC and plug it. I...

I agree Defiant; Your brake system including the seals is engineered to handle a lot more heat than some would think. :rocks: I sure do like to smack em with the BFH first though.

Diesel is dirtier in most cases; but definitely more employable and better payed. I would have to add that there is a wider market for diesel technicians as already mentioned.

Your efforts are appreciated Sgt. USAF Retired here.

EEEWWWWW. That stinks. You will most likely need to remove your water pump to see what you are doing. Try to use a tiny screwdriver or scribe and turn it out. If not, they (Grainger Supply, and some other tool companies) make left hand drill bits. The flutes on them twist to the left...

Nice shot. Great looking car.

Reset your ECU.

Try a little troubleshooting and put the old plugs back in and see if it goes away.

I would say you have two different concepts confused. If you allow a constant flow of air (no matter how minute) you're going to be dumping boost.Most MBC use a ball and spring check valve set up. the spring keeps the ball seated until enough boost is made to compress the spring and...

Try some Fabreze or something different from whatever you are currently using inside your car. Maybe they're attracted to it. Seems that they are gathering around surfaces that open to the interior. Good Luck.

:confused: You did plug your O2 sensor in the manifold back into the harness when you reassembled everything didn't you?

Noisy Injectors? would have to hear it.

yeah, no joke. check your intercooler piping make sure your not leaking there and waste gate (make sure it will open)

Disconnect the battery and reset the ECU. Let it idle til it comes up to temp and try again. Just an idea. maybe your CEL bulb is blown???

Did you overheat it? Like blow a head gasket and run it low on coolant? You could have torched your rings and turbo seals.

Yes, that will cause the problem you guys are discussing. evoIII 16g big injectors and no afc will make it run fat, you need something to turn down the fuel (safc, neo, dsmlink) and need to properly set the fpr. That should help out a lot if you do indeed have a 16g and big injectors.

I concur, but, rings or turbo seals if it's not any worse at start up after sitting for a few hours.

OMG Too funny. Must have had more than one...

here's a good source for OEM grade parts. You may be able to get them to ship to you. Transtar Industries, Inc. - Driven to be the Best.. Good Luck

Id have to say your clutch disc is most likely destroyed.

Okay, with the head bolted down and cams installed, it's not good to rotate the cams very far with any of the pistons at TDC. If the head is off, disregard that statement and set everything close to TDC before you set the head on the block. That will keep you from damaging valves and pistons.

If it's cracked bad enough to worry about you'll either hear it or you'll have either a rusty pinkish color or black area right around the crack.